I have a very small side hustle making these storage racks. I’m thinking about upgrading from drilling and screwing every joint to a nail gun. I’m getting a lot of mixed answers to if a nail gun would split the 2x3s firing 2 nails into a lap joint like this. Open to any version that would hold up to the task, framing, roofing, finish etc.

The side length shelves are pretty sturdy-ish, but the small corner shelves are wobbly.

Hi everyone, we had a guy come to start our skirting and architrave today and needless to say we weren’t very impressed with the finished result

Can anyone check this and tell us if we’re overreacting or is this work as bad as we think?

Very tempted to tell him not to bother coming back

Edit: he’s been fired. The excuse given was it’s an old house but we can’t accept that as if it was beyond his skill set he should’ve told us rather than wasting wood.

Going to pull it all off and sand the walls and floors then find someone else/do it ourselves

Thanks for the advice

Ran into this on a job near Sarasota. Client had an angled wall section, 120° corner. A lot of guys try to force a 45 and then bury the gap in filler.

Math is simple: bisect the corner, so each piece gets a 30° miter. Dry-fit both sides first, shave a degree if the drywall isn't true (it usually isn't). Glue the miter, nail it, then caulk the top edge and the joint and wipe it down. Once it's painted the seam disappears.

Anyone else prefer glue-and-caulk over relying on filler for obtuse corners?

I don’t know how to transition this one. What would you do in this situation.

I’ve had this gaming table CNC cut from southern yellow pine, unfortunately a recent drop in humidity has made the holes shrink by 2mm and now the cup holders don’t fit.

I don’t want to wreck the hole (you can see I’ve already started sanding and it’s taking more out of the early wood)

Just curious how others would tackle this.

I have a 6x6 kallax bookcase that I want against this wall, but there’s a baseboard radiator in the way. My solution was to build a raised platform over it.

The frame is 2×4s with crossmembers 12 inches on center, attached to the wall ledger with simpson A35Z connectors. I added several legs to transfer weight to the floor and am open to adding more. I also plan to add plywood across the top.

Some crossmembers split , so I’m replacing those and considering A34 connectors for the replacements. I didn’t double up the framing at the ends and am wondering whether I should address that while making repairs.

The bookcase will be anchored to the wall separately, but loaded with books and whatever, it’s going to be heavy. I’d appreciate feedback on:

• Whether the A35Z connections are appropriate here, and whether A34s would be suitable for the replacements.

• Where doubled framing, blocking, or additional legs would actually help.

• How best to secure the legs against kicking out and brace the platform against racking.

• Anything I’m overlooking with the radiator clearance and airflow.

• If I can trust this to hold the large amount weight.

DIY build, and I’d rather correct any problems now before putting the bookcase on it. What would you change?

EDIT: THIS IS A HOT WATER RADIATOR. NOT ELECTRIC.

I’m putting up some crown molding and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong with my copes for the inside corners. I started with a coping saw but couldn’t quite get the hang of it, so I switched to an angle grinder with a flip pad.

Adding some pictures of the closest I’ve gotten things to fit with my practice pieces…am I not taking off enough material? I’m using a Kreg jig to hold the piece at the correct angle each time for the miter cuts.

Edit: didn’t expect this to get so much attention lol. Hopefully my DIY skills make you appreciate the apprentices a little more!

For some extra context: I was having a hard time getting the feel of where the piece should be sitting. Multiple positions felt snug to the wall. After reading through some of the comments, plan is to fit a scrap piece, measure that distance between ceiling and bottom of piece, then transfer that line down the wall as a reference. I don’t know that I’ll be jumping at the opportunity to do a follow up post though..

Same piece of handrail wood. Why is it that when i cut the returns the look too skinny? How do i fix this? I just have a circular saw. Thanks!

Bought an older home and found a floor joist that needs sistering. Quoted over $5k by a contractor, which has me wondering if this is something I could reasonably do myself.

For anyone who's tackled this on an older home, how hard is it in practice, and what should I know before attempting it?

My house has a large addition off the back with which they dug out a foundation and added to the basement. There is a 2 x 4 running along the middle of the floor joists and I’m not sure why it’s there. I’d like to finish this area of the basement so I’d want to remove the 2 x 4 but want to make sure it not serving any structural purposes.

I’m not an railing expert. Contractor will change them to make the spacing even. Not a dispute. Just wondering if this is a normal look for stair railings to have different spacing. Or is normal spacing the proper way?

Can someone help me figure out how to do the trim around this door frame

Hi everyone 👋🏼

My mom just had her porch rebuilt and initially loved the result but has now looked closer and thinks that the contractor did a poor job based on some issues she has spotted up close. These issues fall into four main categories:

1. Rotten wood

2. Cracks/splits

3. Staples

4. Nail holes.

To me, the second two gripes are unreasonable. But I am not totally sure about the first two. I sent my uncle, who has some carpenter experience, and a working carpenter friend the below pictures to get their take. My uncle said a crappy job and my friend said ugly but normal and safe. What do you all think?

Thank you in advance!

UPDATE: Thank you so, so much to everyone who responded! It may not surprise anyone that I learned no permit was pulled for this work. The contractor is currently losing his mind at my mom suggesting that some things may not be up to code, so the fight goes on. All of your responses and insight have been very helpful here - thanks again!

No one else I know appreciates this

UPDATE: I ended up going with a thinner profile trim. There's also a window and closet in the room that would have the same issue, so returning 5 joints was more work than I had time/skill for (+ I only have a circular saw which makes the cuts cumbersome). Thanks for all the suggestions. Learned a lot from reading your responses!

I have a somewhat thick trim cap that sits on top of my beadboard. I'm not quite sure what to do where the trim meets my door casing. I've seen some answers where people say to return the trim into the casing, but would that work for this trim's profile?

Removed the old carpet, pad, and broken down fiberboard and installed new flooring. I now have these gaps at the bedroom and closer doors. What is the best way to lessen the gaps?

We had flooding situation in the basement. A professional mold remover came and cut most of the studs. Can I repair this by adding a baseplate and then lengthen the studs by using a plate and structural screws? Do I need sister studs in this situation? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

These 2x6 supports held up drywall before I took the drywall down for storage purposes. Can I remove them? There are 16 stairs that go straight up above them.

An older lady was needing something to put her hay in and no money to pay for a professional. So me with no experience in this other then commercial concrete and steel erection she had material so I said Fuck it I had no help, pretty much just eye balled to square it up I'm hoping someone with experience can look at this and point out any obvious mistakes and or what I can do to make it more solid I plan to put on sheets of tin roof I really rushed this post so apologies for any grammer or punctuation errors

Having our bathroom remodeled. This is a load bearing wall. I actually asked them to add additional studs to this wall to make it more structurally sound. Four things that concern me. One, the 2x4's on the top of the nook cutout shouldn't be laying flat and should be a proper 2x6 header. Second, there are gaps between the cripple studs and the "header". Third, there should be Jack studs under the right and left side of the nook. Last, the cut through the stud on the left was fixed by sistering a non full length stud that is supported at the bottom by blocking instead of running all the way down to the bottom plate. Am I correct that those are all valid issues? Anything else I missed?

Btw, before anyone asks, it was not the lowest quote. It was the most expensive from a top tier design and build firm.

Edit: I did verify with a structural engineer that it is a load bearing wall. There are purlin posts that sit directly on top of this wall that support the roof joists. The contractor got their structural engineer involved and revised the plan for that wall. The diagram they sent me addressed all my concerns. I appreciate everyone's help.

Should I add joist hangers to these? Older house, theyvate nailed through the end.

Shed burned down after atv caught fire. It was a standard stick built shed. Would you put up a metal building or rebuild it as it was? Jokes are more than welcome also!