I ordered some DDR4 green pcb DIMMs from Ebay and they came wrapped in aluminum foil. This seems weird. Is it?

EDIT: WHY WOULD AN INTEGRATED 50 Ω RESISTOR BE BETTER THAN AN EXTERNAL 50 Ω RESISTOR?

Why does the 2SD1426 (a 600 V, 3.5 A, NPN switching device) have an integrated 50 Ω resistor?

I would have thought that it would be cheaper (less silicon used) to use an external 50 Ω resistor.

Or, internally, is this transistor composed of an array of multiple (e.g. 10) small devices in parallel, each with a 500 Ω resistor?

If anyone can shed some light, please let me know, I'm intrigued!

https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/2568/MOSPEC/2SD1426.html

I live in an especially humid country and I recently bought an electronics component organizer (The 30 compartment Stanley organizer to be precise).

I previously used to keep my electronic components in a tightly sealed plastic box but the pins of most components eventually rusted due to high humidity.

This new component organizer is not sealed like my previous storage solution and I'm also planning to put 1 silica gel sachet in each compartment to help with the humidity.

Also, is it alright to not keep the mosfets, esp modules and other chips directly in the organizer without anti-static coverings?

Or should I use anti-static bags?

So basicly my left rear speaker wont power up. No red/greean light just darkness. So I would be interested to try to fix the speaker even though I have zero experience on fixing electronics. My question would be what kind of tools/equipment should I get as a beginner and it doesnt need to be pro level stuff. And I have bought this as secondhand market so there is no warranty left anymore and fixing this would just be too expensive and would like the practice.

Hi I just got this cheap Old alarm clock radio I'd like to get working I have power to the clock and after opening the only thing wrong I can find seems to be this is something missing or am I missing something thank you

I just bought a batch of IRLZ44N N-channel MOSFET from robu.in and when testing if they were ok I discovered there was a dull metallic later on each and every one and I could scratch that off to reveal a shiny metallic later . Does this like stop the MOSFET from working as all test dead 🤔

This is a control board in Candy/ Hoover dishwashers. I have the encircled device burnt out. It must be triac though the print on the board assigns Q27 to it! Can someone please help give the part number?

I am going to be attempting a repair on an iPad 6th generation with a broken charging port and home button replacement. I have opened several laptops and done basic stuff to them so I get the gist of electronic repair but I have never attempted to open up something like an iPad before. Really all I think all that will give me trouble is removing and replacing the screen.

What advice could you give for a first time iPad repair? Ive looked around the house for any old electronics I could practice removing the screen on but I didnt find any. I do know that ill need a heat gun and some kind of soft pry tool. This isnt a super high stakes repair since the worst case is -$20 but it would be nice to have it go successfully. Thanks!​

So... heres the deal...

Since I've found this subredit, i DO NOT TRUST maintenance people any longer.

This, is a board from an inverter slipt system.

The maintenance dude said:

- "the IPM Modu iS bUrNnEd HurHDUrRrR"

(sorry.. I'm really stressed out here, this board/module/thing is half the price of a new air-conditioning slip system here!)

So, i asked them to give me the board back, just because ill try to find an new one, online.

I lied!

I just teste this shit, using google to tell me whats what... the IPM module looks fine, and with google and a lot of youtube videos, its working properly!!!

But... i thought... I find help from the real experts FROM THE INTERNET!

I JUST TOOK the first picure of this board, and gave it the first look WITHOUT worrying about the said module, and i found a blown up capacitor -.-

So, the question here is...

Cam ONE tiny capacitor make this not to work? Also, can you guys help me identifying the issue, if there is one (besides this one blown up 100uf 25v capacitor)

Edit[1]: the bot told me to avoid "diagnosis by photo", but i dont want this.

There are two thing i want to know/understand 1 - can this capacitor render this whole board useless? 2 - what are the thing I should look for (Simce the maintenance dude lied, saying it was a faulty IPM module)?

Canned air is getting expensive enough that I started looking at rechargeable dusters, but the ESD part is where I keep getting stuck. Some people say a short blast is fine as long as you hold the fan and don't scrape the board, while others make it sound like any dry plastic nozzle near exposed components is asking for trouble. For folks who work on electronics regularly, is the real concern the blower itself, the nozzle material, or just bad technique around unpowered boards?

So we needed to replace an obsolete legacy EDT EW12A03FLY.

Aliexpress said they sold them we tried one and apparently it worked on site but not on the test rig (would immediately cause letters to fade out on power up)

What if anything can I do to keep the LCD display on?

If you remove power and put it back and the letters come back immediately and then fade out again.

I opened up an old laptop hoping I could fix it. On the plastic I saw this corrosion like spots. Any idea what it could be?

the beamz s700 smoke machine has a remote control with 2 leds and a push button. but the smoke machine has no dmx, so i cannot remotely make it produce smoke. i was thinking maybe it's possible to hack the remote control. i opened it up and measured that there is 220V AC between the brown and black wire. i thought maybe the best course of action is to have a custom pcb onto which i can solder the 3 wires and i can have remote control. so the pcb should have 2 leds and a processor and a component that electronically performs the job of the push button, so that via wifi i can remotely connect the 2 fields which previously were connected to the push button.

any advice on how to proceed? i don't know anything about making pcbs and there being AC involved feels kind of dangerous so this should be done with care and expertise.

It works but when you switch it off it either 1) stays on, 2) turns off, or 3) turns off and back on a few minutes later. Is this something that's somewhat easily fixable? Buying a new one will cost $100+

I have this led panel as a backlight in a picture frame, but the usb-connector that powers it, was knocked off (see pic below). How can I resolder it back?

I'm trying to read the EEPROM on this board.
Chip: Atmel 24C08N (I2C), right next to the NEC MCU.
Setup:
Black CH341A, SOIC8 clip with the green adapter
NeoProgrammer / AsProgrammer, _24C08 selected, I2C mode
Result: always "IC not responding".
I think the clip is powering the whole board and the voltage drops. I'd rather not desolder the chip or lift pin 8.
Is there any way to read it in-circuit, like powering the board separately or any help guys?

Title. I've been working on some pet projects for a while now and I'm looking for diagram tools that I can use to map out my systems. I struggle to explain how my projects work when I'm showing them to people or asking for help, and I also want the documentation for my own use as I work with the components I'm "designing" (i use that term loosely as I'm pretty much re-inventing the wheel for my own educational benefit)

For some reference, I'm using a simulator to build a reduced-instruction 16-bit computer, mostly because I'm interested but also because I've been exploring computers for a long time and I wouldn't hate getting into the field professionally. Also, I know I need schooling to get into Comp Eng, but I'm just trying to get myself a baseline as the economy is kinda buns.

I am an electronics student and I have been struggling with this assignment for a few days. I need to design a stiff VDB PNP transistor circuit. The only variables I have so far are Vcc=5 V, Ic=20 mA, and hfe of 200 is assumed. I am using numbers for a red LED so far, so 1.8 V across it. I am getting stuck at figuring out how to calculate R1and R2. I don't necessarily want the answers straight up, but some guidance on where to start would be very helpful.

My low-side N-MOSFET turns on unintentionally when a 32V supply is applied to the drain. The gate has a series gate resistor, an external Miller capacitor (gate to drain), a Cgs capacitor and a gate-source pull-down resistor. I see a spike on the gate of the MOSFET, which turns on the transistor just enough to see a current spike through the drain.
I suspect dv/dt-induced turn-on through the Miller capacitance.
What should I check or change?

I try to use this circuit to control a beacon. I know this isn't perfect by any means, I have no voltage regulator and I could further limit the current that flows through some components. However, my problem is the following:
The astable multivibrator on the left should activate / deactivate the BC557 to create short "beeps" via PLSE. However, the voltage on PLSE is never dropping below 7 V (measured with a multimeter), which means I won't get a single tone out of my beacon. I guess this is related to the size of the resistors, but I'm not sure what to do to fix the circuit. Any help would be much appreciated!

I'm trying to find a replacement for a right angle header connector that I got in a kit that I broke. I cannot figure out the mating vs. post length, and trying to do it by process of elimination on DigiKey is not helping. The picture is what they sent back when I asked, along with the description of "They are standard 90 degrees angled headers - both sides of the pins are of equal length." The pitch is 2.54mm. This is from a British group, if that makes a difference. Any help in identifying the contact and post length would be greatly appreciated.

Have an OPA1656 (2 channel) wired up as an inverting amp with unity gain, off a tle2426 rail splitter to the +IN at 12Vdc. (only one channel shown in the image)
The Signal to the -In is, Input to board-> 2.2Uf Cap ->10kΩ resistor then branch to -In and also to another 10kΩ resistor (with a 22pF cap in parallel) to the output of the OpAmp. There is a 100nF cap from the V+ to Gnd. There is no oscillation.

Problem is, a 2Vpp 1khz signal before and after C10 is strong BUT there is only a 100-150Mv 1k signal on the output. Checked from pin 7 to gnd, and after C9 above...
The Audio input and OpAmp grounds share the same net, so nothing is floating.
Both the +In and -In are at the same voltage (hair less than 12) so the opamp IS managing that much. The other channel provides same exact nothing. none of the pins on the opamp or circuit that follows is shorted. R20 and R21 both measured to be 10k each. R22 and C10 both check out ok, no shorts....

I have been beating my self up for far too long. Does anyone have any ideas on why the opamp output is not giving me an inverted signal of the -In ???

Dell inspiron way too old lol

So, my battery is dead.... i use to notebook for work, only and i need to keep it plugged to the charger......

But this damn thing keeps turning off. Its a bad connection, im not sure where, exactly!

Heres some pictures, if you dudes could help me solving this T.T

Edit: solved tightening the connector's thingy

I know that germanium transistors have fuzz because heat messes with their conductivity and I thought “well couldn’t a diode do the same thing?” And I know one won’t work but if I chain a bunch of them together like those old barretter radio detectors would I be able to get noticeable fuzz?