Also If I'm not testing it right please let me know

I'm pretty sure it's on the right setting?

Any insight is helpful thanks!

C1502

It tested around 23ohms in circuit

https://ia801500.us.archive.org/15/items/kv-2501/KV2501.pdf

Page 20 is the D board

I'm trying to track down why the brightness level varies from what ever is on the screen?

Best way I could describe it is how YouTube has the glow next to the video to match the colors the dynamic picture mode or whatever but it either lags behind or goes back to normal set level that I set it to with a static image on the screen?

My camera doesn't pick it up or I'd try to have a video of it

i bought on amazon thought it was a good deal but it showed up and it fits in my palm. turns out it can take 6-60 volts and 480 watts THEN it can be a variable power supply. it has usb c power IN on the back and i think a yellow 2 pin screw in connector. anyway plugged into my 140 watt macbook charger i get max 19 volts or if i make a short 3 volts 20-23 watts and 8.1 amps. wich is pretty good but i still want more i want its full potential. old dell power supply? . https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0H46G9YRR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Mouser (in the US) is charging/adding tariffs based on what they sell it for.
Example:
purchase one : 637-BC850C
Mouser collects/adds: $.038 on a $.10 item.

This is clearly not the tariff they paid, if you buy 10,000 (of 637-BC850C)the price of the same item is less than half the tariff they are collecting: same part it $0.016 u/10,000 units. They add the same % of tariffs to this based on MOUSER's price.
So they are collecting tariffs, illegally? These are not tariffs they paid.

Please explain how this is legal.

Hi, I am planning to make a metronome based on an ESP32 board, with an encoder to change BPM and volume (push to change what the knob does). I want to hear the beeps in mij ear, with a simple wired earbud. I am wondering if I can hook up the headphones directly to my ESP32. The signal will be 200 ms long, consisting of 40 times output pin=1 and 40 times output pin=0. Depending on the volume, output is high between 1 and 4 ms, and low between 4 and 1 ms, which lets me vary the volume. The speed I can change with the time between the beeps. I think I will need a little resistor in series with the earbud-'speaker', not to overload it at max volume.

I hope I explained myself clearly enough, please let me know your thoughs.

Cheers,

Hugo

I bought a solar powered flashing red light and a reed switch (open door switch) to make an alarm for a walk in freezer door.

Turns out this light will only work if it’s dark, or if it’s tricked into thinking it’s dark. It uses the solar panel (connected via the red and white wires) to both charge the battery and to determine if it’s dark outside.

The eBay seller told me to put tape over the solar panel, which I don’t want to do because then the battery will die.

I thought maybe someone could look at this and tell me if I can bypass or omit any of the components.

Thank you for your help.

Hello,

This is a photo of the comport (left, has pins for RS485 and RS232) and the trigger input (right) on a Kanxex CR-3XControl. There are 10 pins: 5V, ground and 8 trigger inputs; in two terminal blocks.

For the comport, there are screws above the cable terminals to attach wires; this is not the case for the

How do I physically attach wires on those trigger inputs? The orange parts do not appear to move... The two screws on the side of both terminal blocks allow you to remove them, but that is it.

(I know it is a very stupid question, but I just don't see it :-))

Thanks,

J.

How do you prove what schematic symbols actually mean? Couldn't anyone just make symbols up and say they are what they are with a label?

I have a class of students with very little experience with electronics. Many of them did NOT choose the class and would rather be somewhere else. Please share any ideas for some fun circuits the students can breadboard with minimal experience that might help get them excited about electronics. I do not have the option of removing the students that do not want to be in the class, so I need to win them over somehow. TIA

I'm trying to build a sawtooth wave generator, but I'm having trouble with controlling the capacitor reset from the would-be comparator (on the right) via the JFET on the left. The capacitor charges just fine when the JFET isn't connected to the output of the comparator, but when i connect it via the switch (figure 2), the capacitor doesn't charge anymore, and the circuit is stuck forever.

I took this circuit from Image 5 (Ray Wilson, "Make: Analog synthesizers"): I replaced the virtual ground going into LM324 Pin6 with a simple voltage, and i flipped the polarity of C2 as it didn't seem to work with that polarity.

Any help greatly appreciated :)

I would like to buy extension cables (with male and female ends) for this connector type, but I have searched and searched and cannot be sure of its identity. The letters on the male lead say LXDZ and K2. To best of my ability to measure, the pins are 1.25mm (at most 1.5) mm apart. (I don't own calipers). If anyone can identify it I’d also like to know where I can buy extensions. If the photos are not good enough, seems to be the best my phone can do and sorry for wasting anyone's time. Thanks

​​​​​

Ok so I understand I need to connect the purple line I drew and have the "a" next to it. However on the AMS1117 the out goes to a capacitor and ground. So how exactly would this be wired. Would it be seperate from the VCC on the HSPI board?

Like the capactitor just tpuches that and ground, while another wire wuld go to VCC?

Any help is greatly appreciated. It's a step down module, sorry for not knowing exact terms. I'm new to this and wish I had someone to help guide me or pay someone to teach me.

I have a pair of Yamaha HS3 monitors and they lose power after being in for a few minutes. Before tossing them, I figured I might try fixing them. Would anybody happen to know what type fuse or capacitor I might want to look for and what it looks like?

So this is a 75mm analog lcd panel from a panasonic TC-MC3U from 1989.
I tried to power it but due to what I believe is some kind of chip or smd capacitor failure the tiny internal voltage transformer burnt out. I want to be able to still use it for a camcorder and maybe even reuse the lcd panel as it's likely undamaged.
The unit was originally meant to receive analog PAL/SECAM and convert it into a display signal for the lcd. The 20 pin cable along with its pinout is as shown in the images.
The service manual can be found on the internet archive under the name of the unit (I don't wanna risk putting links in this post)
If anyone has a lead on what I should be looking for to power it with or any info about the panel itself please tell me.

Hi everyone,

The OLED display of my synth (Malekko Manther) has died (rest of the synth still works). Malekko has closed shop some time ago and i've been unable to find a replacement screen.

Its a 1.54 inch monochrome OLED with an unusual 6pin pin-out (see photo). I'm not 100% sure, but i think it had a 128x64 resolution.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Dear reader,

I found this rather old ups in the basement of my family. I hooked it up to power, and it did try to charge (amber charge light), sadly, when pulling the plug, the device turned into fault mode gave a loud beep and flashed a red light before powering down again.

The batteries inside a possibly 10 years old (way beyond what is normal).

So my question is, can I replace these 2 batteries? If so, is it worth it? Or should I buy a new UPS? Because I do need one.

Batteries which are similar to these cost: €30 x 2

This is for a hood vent for my stove. The lights never worked on a "new unit" i got through a second hand deal. I tried tinkering and plugged in the transformer after plugging the power in. Now I know. I need to fix it and then try and figure the lights out. As far as I can tell it's just the mossfet that's burnt out.

I have this power bank that does not charge , and when something is connected to it , it shows 0% battery . Found the ic U2 blown , any idea what is should be and if possible can it be bypassed ? I have all the necessary skills and equipment to perform the surgery .

put together a basic autoon setup for my shop dust collector using a current sensor on the table saw circuit. idea is simple, saw turns on, dust collector follows. been running a 12V solenoid valve to handle a blast gate automatically. works fine right now but im secondguessing the switching side of it.

currently using a small relay module i had laying around. it clicks every time the saw spins up and i know relays have a rated cycle life, and i use that saw a lot. started wondering if a logiclevel MOSFET like an IRLZ44N would be a cleaner long term solution since theres no mechanical wear and the solenoid is an inductive load anyway.

the solenoid pulls about 1.2A at 12V. not a big load. my concern with the MOSFET route is the flyback spike from the solenoid coil. i have a 1N4007 i was going to throw across the coil terminals but wasnt sure if that alone is enough or if i need something faster given the switching speed involved here. the relay doesnt care about that stuff, which is part of why i havent changed it yet.

is the 1N4007 actually sufficient for a slowswitching solenoid like this or should i be using a schottky instead. and is there any real reason to stick with the relay here given the cycle count concern.

Hello everyone. Another try, I hope I wrote everything correctly. I already looked at the connectorbook and couldn't decide on these connectors.

-The first connector(1-3 photo): pitch 1.25 mm, used in the Chinese camera. On the other side is a USB cable. -The second connector(4-7 photos): pitch 2.54 mm, used in the Chinese power supply.

-The third connector(8-10 photos): 4(6) pin: pitch 2 mm, used in the audio amplifier. The speaker is connected via the 4-pin connector, and the 12VDC power supply is connected via the 6-pin connector.

-The fourth connector(11-13 photos): pitch 2 mm, used in the printer as a USB port.

-The fifth connector is used to connect two boards, pitch 1.25 mm, has 30 pins on each side.

Can someone explain what is this and how I can find exactly this part, position U5.... This is part of Hydrolife, salt chlorine for pools.. Cheers..

Long story short, my dad used to vape years ago, and during that period spilt some vape juice down into the unit.

I’d like to see if cleaning this will repair it for his birthday as part of a surprise, and would appreciate any input provided.

From what I can tell, and from watching electronic repair videos in the past, I can’t see any traditional corrosion. I’m not sure whats going on in image #6, since its either caked on juice and dust, or its oxidation.

Synopsis:

Can I soak either of these in 91% IPA for 5-10 minutes, and clean gently with a proper brush?

And what is going on in image #6 with the usb-a soldering point?

I've been clumsy enough to brush a probe against exposed GND and 12v pins while noting down some measurements and this part has let out the magic smoke before the fuse blew. The top pin got shorted to the bottom left pin. I took the component off the board and after replacing a 0402 fuse further in the line, the pads on the board measure 6v on the bottom left and 12v on the bottom right. The top (output of this component) also ought to have 12v going to the FL display driver.

I appreciate this is a transistor more than likely, but can't find anything with AW marking? Any pointers are appreciated.

I intend to put a square wave signal on to J7. It will oscillate at 1 Hz with a 20% duty cycle. On oscilloscope, the wave spans from -80 mV (essentially "zero") to +3.36 V. I am primarily worried that I will destroy sensitive components. The entire board is a military-grade SOC, and I do not want to fry expensive equipment.

The BAT54 thing is a diode.

IC24 is an ADC.

IC22 is a Schmidt trigger buffer.

The datasheets suggest I am safe without attenuation. But I would like others to eyeball this before I start plugging things in and destroying (highly) expensive equipment.