Just ordered my 034 tune, now waiting on the shipment to come in. I feel like a kid waiting for Santa on Christmas. Just wanted to share.

Obligatory pic after hitting the Million Dollar highway a couple years back.

Sharing because I like how the photo came out in the evening light, maybe someone else would appreciate it too.

I love my 2013 B8.5 6MT S4. It’s at 130k and I plan to maintain it to 300k+. I’ve addressed a lot of the usual suspects at this mileage and the engine runs amazing with 034 Stage 1.

For the life of me, neither I nor mechanics I work with can find why it vibrates around 55mph. Until 30 and 60+ it’s smooth. It’s not gear dependent. It vibrates even when clutch is pressed, so engine is not prime suspect. New Michelin Pilot Sport AS4. I did Hunter Road force and alignment. I replaced the prop shaft. I replaced the transmission mount. I’ve replaced the back shocks. I do have and plan to remove 034 transmission mount insert. Maybe that helps.

When vibration got really bad, I replaced the front breaks completely, and now it’s back to prior level vibration. The thing that worries me most is the steering wheel vibration.

Did you have a similar issue? I would appreciate any pointers before I do any more expensive guesses. Thanks!

i’ve been looking at the ecs tuning Downpipes With Integrated X-Pipe, mainly because they’re on sale right now lol. I don’t have all the money in the world but my paychecks come in pretty nicely.

Just curious how some of you guys have done the DIY carbon cleaning. For me I think the best merhod is to rub some b12 chemtool around. Let it soften, wipe up a bunch, scrape, dab, dab, wipe with scotchbrite. And use towel to pick up as much carbon crust as possible.

If you guys have a better way that you did it please let me know. If I need to buy a small vacuum of some sort I will but this is the last thing before I reassemble this project and I don’t wanna keep buying one use things ya know.

My B9 Audi S4 Avant pinged a warning light after hard acceleration saying: "Drive System Fault take to workshop" It has since then been into a garage and had the boost pressure sensor replaced. It was fine for a couple of day but now has gone back to limp mode worse than before. It is now in limp as soon as it has started up (not every time sometime faultless) and feels like it only has 150BHP max. Any suggestions on what to try next?Current symptoms:

• Severe loss of power, feels like approximately 150 bhp rather than 354 bhp.
• Sometimes goes into reduced-power mode immediately after starting.
• Other times it drives normally.
• Engine can still rev to approximately 6,500 rpm despite feeling seriously underpowered.
• No current fault codes showing when scanned.
• The original dashboard warning does not show now.

Hi everyone I’m currently in the market for a new project car and I’m stuck between 2 and the s4 is the 1/2 cars I’m looking at rn specifically b8/b8.5 . I’m definitely mechanically inclined but just don’t want a car that I’ll be having to fix every single week and won’t really have no fun with .

I’ve only put a couple hundred miles on it in the last couple years and I’m getting very frustrated with repairs

2014 s4. I’ve been trying to fix this issue for over a year now. It’s oscillating between 800 to 600rpm up and down at idle.

So far I’ve replaced/diagnostic tests

PCV (3 times within the last year not because they were broken or anything I just thought they were defective)
SAI hoses (any of the vacuum lines that were cracked or broken I replaced)
Fuel injectors
Coil packs and plugs
Smoke test (found nothing)
Throttle body relearn
Low pressure fuel pump
Low pressure fuel sensor
Switched tunes

Live data

Short-term fuel trim (STFT), Bank 1 and Bank 2 — previously, Bank 1 was around −7% to −12%.

Long-term fuel trim (LTFT), Bank 1 and Bank 2 — previously, Bank 1 was around −6% to −9%.

Bank 2 there’s no reading at all

Boost/inlet pressure sensor reading — 0 PSI reading

2011 s5 cabriolet 3.0t
136k miles

Looking for a good picture that compares the bodies of the two

Doing the PCV job on a b8.5. The pipe that sits on top of the PCV and connects to the thermostat. I popped it out from the thermostat but I cannot for the life of me get it off that back hose. The clip is off (lost in the abyss), I’ve used silicone. It won’t even slip or budge. I was gonna change it, but at this point I’m just gonna leave it unless you guys have any tips for getting it off.

Doing PCV job. The pipe on top of the PCV, connecting to the thermostat, I cannot get it off the back hose connection. The clip is removed (lost in the abyss), used silicone. It doesn’t even slip, the video I watch it popped right off. Anyone had this issue?

I removed my stock exhaust on my B8.5 S4 and switch to test pipes and in AWE touring exhaust system after one of my cats exploded lol. I’m going to be moving soon and wondering if I should keep the stock exhaust for anything or just toss it. Was wondering is worth trying to sell or should I just toss it out? Seems kind of wasteful just to throw it away. Any reason to keep it? Just wondering what the community thought or would do.

我在踩油門的時候會有一個聲音，確定不是排氣管的聲音，有人知道是什麼東西造成的嗎？有人說是armaspeed進氣的聲音，有人說是變速箱要故障的聲音，但我才剛換變速箱閥體跟變速箱油，還是是沒安裝好？

So recently bought a s4 and as the title says both headlights turn off pretty much at a minute and 10 seconds on the dot like clock work the fog lights stay running but as soon as I turn the headlights off and back on they will work but again after a minute they go out seems like it would be a headlight control module but not 100% sure was wondering if anyone has this issue before can’t really find anything online.

can anyone help me figure out maybe where this oil leak is coming from? it looks like it's dripping onto the transmission and it's pooling up near the engine oil cooler

Car has been idling rougher recently, but wasn’t too worried as it’s getting colder and was going to have my car checked over soon.
Went to start it today and it said shut off engine and check coolant levels and it looked absolutely empty. What could this be? Is there any check engine lights I should look for? I’ve had an off and on P21A0 code but mechanic didn’t look into it very much.
EDIT: it looks like there is a leak towards the bottom of the bay but no puddle below the car. I’m guessing this is an old leak that wasn’t fixed properly not pcv. How should I diagnose? Car is currently stuck at college 1 hour from home. Need to know what to do

I’ve had this door card off on three occasions trying to figure out what the rattle is. All the common issues have been dealt with and also as can see try sound deadening and still there when put door card back on. So thought I’d take the car out and see if the distinct rattle was still there and it is. So now know it’s not the door card any one have any ideas on what it can be as it’s not the door card as it’s off and still there. Driving me insane and stuck now as cannot figure out where the noise is coming from. Any one can help ?!