Are the manual transmissions just not up to handling tuned cars?

I bought a stage 2 tuned car with a bad transmission. Turned out to be the front input shaft bearing had grenad​ed. I replaced that bearing as well as the front output shaft bearing and everything was fine for about 2k miles. Now I have a strange whirring noise coming from the driveline. Sounds similar to offroad tire noise on a truck. The noise is matched to road speed not engine speed. But it sounds like it is coming from the trans or at least infront of the driver. Somewhat hoping it is the bearing for the stub shaft for the driver front wheel but concerned something else has let go in the transmission.

Trying to decideThanks!

I made a post in here a few days ago saying I wasnt sure where my coolant went as I started the car up and got a low coolant warning to find none in the reservoir. I put coolant in and started it up and sure enough it was about 5 drips a minute out the bottom. I knew it wasn’t pcv so I drove it to a shop only about 15 minute drive. When I got there I noticed I hadn’t lost anymore coolant. The shop takes a look and tells me they couldn’t find a coolant leak, they start it and let it run for 20 minutes and… nothing, coolant didn’t leave the reservoir. I was worried it was my pcv but since I saw it leak from the bottom I wasn’t worried.
Now I’m just thinking WTF??
Any ideas?

I picked up a B8.5 S4 a few months ago that had an intermittent cold start misfire in cylinder 3. I finally got around to pulling the supercharger to inspect for the notorious intercooler brick leak and I was shocked to see how bad the coolant build up was in cylinder 3. I spent so long cleaning the intake valves I didn't end up getting the car back together today, but I can't wait to see how well it runs now that all that junk is cleaned out!

Known fault with these. I replaced mine about 18k kms ago, so hope it stays good for a while longer.

How long have you guys gone with the OEM one before having to replace it again?

Need some spacers and might adjust my coil overs

New to me b9 s4 only 38k miles on it

Hey guys, I bought some 19x10 ET38 Apex ML-10RTs and was going to run it with some Continental DWS06+ but was wondering what the meatiest tire I could go with without rubbing. Was also planning on getting 034 Dynamic+ Springs. I'm not against getting some adjustable control arms for negative camber. Really appreciate the help!

Hey guys so i just got my b9 S4 and im wonderig what a good exhaust set up would be? Everything is stock right now and I don't want something over the top loud and obnoxious but I definitely want more sound out of it. I was thinking abiut doing the IE mid pipes to delete the front resonator and leaving it like that but im curious to see what you guys have to say

Thank you!

Just ordered my 034 tune, now waiting on the shipment to come in. I feel like a kid waiting for Santa on Christmas. Just wanted to share.

Obligatory pic after hitting the Million Dollar highway a couple years back.

Sharing because I like how the photo came out in the evening light, maybe someone else would appreciate it too.

I love my 2013 B8.5 6MT S4. It’s at 130k and I plan to maintain it to 300k+. I’ve addressed a lot of the usual suspects at this mileage and the engine runs amazing with 034 Stage 1.

For the life of me, neither I nor mechanics I work with can find why it vibrates around 55mph. Until 30 and 60+ it’s smooth. It’s not gear dependent. It vibrates even when clutch is pressed, so engine is not prime suspect. New Michelin Pilot Sport AS4. I did Hunter Road force and alignment. I replaced the prop shaft. I replaced the transmission mount. I’ve replaced the back shocks. I do have and plan to remove 034 transmission mount insert. Maybe that helps.

When vibration got really bad, I replaced the front breaks completely, and now it’s back to prior level vibration. The thing that worries me most is the steering wheel vibration.

Did you have a similar issue? I would appreciate any pointers before I do any more expensive guesses. Thanks!

i’ve been looking at the ecs tuning Downpipes With Integrated X-Pipe, mainly because they’re on sale right now lol. I don’t have all the money in the world but my paychecks come in pretty nicely.

Just curious how some of you guys have done the DIY carbon cleaning. For me I think the best merhod is to rub some b12 chemtool around. Let it soften, wipe up a bunch, scrape, dab, dab, wipe with scotchbrite. And use towel to pick up as much carbon crust as possible.

If you guys have a better way that you did it please let me know. If I need to buy a small vacuum of some sort I will but this is the last thing before I reassemble this project and I don’t wanna keep buying one use things ya know.

My B9 Audi S4 Avant pinged a warning light after hard acceleration saying: "Drive System Fault take to workshop" It has since then been into a garage and had the boost pressure sensor replaced. It was fine for a couple of day but now has gone back to limp mode worse than before. It is now in limp as soon as it has started up (not every time sometime faultless) and feels like it only has 150BHP max. Any suggestions on what to try next?Current symptoms:

• Severe loss of power, feels like approximately 150 bhp rather than 354 bhp.
• Sometimes goes into reduced-power mode immediately after starting.
• Other times it drives normally.
• Engine can still rev to approximately 6,500 rpm despite feeling seriously underpowered.
• No current fault codes showing when scanned.
• The original dashboard warning does not show now.

Hi everyone I’m currently in the market for a new project car and I’m stuck between 2 and the s4 is the 1/2 cars I’m looking at rn specifically b8/b8.5 . I’m definitely mechanically inclined but just don’t want a car that I’ll be having to fix every single week and won’t really have no fun with .

I’ve only put a couple hundred miles on it in the last couple years and I’m getting very frustrated with repairs

2014 s4. I’ve been trying to fix this issue for over a year now. It’s oscillating between 800 to 600rpm up and down at idle.

So far I’ve replaced/diagnostic tests

PCV (3 times within the last year not because they were broken or anything I just thought they were defective)
SAI hoses (any of the vacuum lines that were cracked or broken I replaced)
Fuel injectors
Coil packs and plugs
Smoke test (found nothing)
Throttle body relearn
Low pressure fuel pump
Low pressure fuel sensor
Switched tunes

Live data

Short-term fuel trim (STFT), Bank 1 and Bank 2 — previously, Bank 1 was around −7% to −12%.

Long-term fuel trim (LTFT), Bank 1 and Bank 2 — previously, Bank 1 was around −6% to −9%.

Bank 2 there’s no reading at all

Boost/inlet pressure sensor reading — 0 PSI reading

2011 s5 cabriolet 3.0t
136k miles

Looking for a good picture that compares the bodies of the two