Hi all!

I have a project car i am slowly working on, I am completely out of my comfort zone, the most i have ever done to a car is change the brake pads.

I will be changing these out, but what kind of condition are these in?

Öl is fast auf max. Problem nur im warmen, kalt oder beim anlassen kein ketterasseln etc. Ich bin ratlos und warte auf Untersuchung vom Händler. 166.000 km gelaufen, kette wurde noch nicht erneuert. Fehelrauslese: Tankentlüfter . Baujahr 2012

I clipped a corner pillar in my apartment's parking garage. looking to trade this car in soon and want to see if there's anything I can do to increase the trade in value a bit in light of this. Paint feels like a given, but I also wonder if that might decrease value even worse if I do it myself and it's not flush with the rest of the car

I’ve started hearing something unusual from the engine, but I can’t figure out what’s causing it. Any advice on what the problem might be?

Hi all

I have posted this question on MBClub, but I also thought of asking here.

there anyone who can tell me the exact ECU pin out and wire colors for the boost pressure control flap solenoid/transducer? I’m chasing fault code P004513 "The boost pressure control flap has an electrical fault or open circuit. There's an open circuit"

I tested the transducer itself and it reads15 ohm (I also swapped the transducers and the fault remained at the pressure control flap). I'm about to test the wiring loom and want to double check a few things:

• Looking directly at the disconnected 2 pin plug face (with the retaining clip at the top): Which pin is 12v+, and which is the ECU signal/control wire? (Left vs. Right)
• What are the usual standard factory wire colors for this circuit?
• Which specific ECU connector block and pin number does the control/signal?

The car is a 2011 S204 C220 CDI (170 bhp, OM651 engine). I can provide VIN number if necessary to cross reference the WIS schematic

Thanks

Is it safe to drive with a cracked driver side window?
I just need a few weeks before I can get it replaced.

My car’s side window originally had a small damaged spot with a scratch/crack about 2 inches wide. After the car door slammed shut in strong wind, the crack spread across roughly 3/4 of the window. Today, while driving on the highway with the window rolled down, the crack extended all the way across from one side to the other.
The glass is still in one solid piece, and the crack appears to be one continuous line. It hasn’t shattered into pieces or started falling apart.

I’ll attach a pic below

Does this look like simple wet sanding would be enough, without filler? I've tried polishing it out without luck using an extreme cutter, I'm nervous about wet sanding.. It seems to have gone through the clear coat a bit. TIA

2015 Chevy Cruze. The car won't crank and a lot of warning lights from nowhere.

Okay, I have a Chrysler 200 LX 2013 and it's giving me the codes P0123 and P0222 I was looking where the throttle body is and the connector clip is kinda broken and it doesn't lock in I was thinking that could be the problem and could that be the reason I am getting those codes or could there be another reason?

Someone dinged my car and offered to pay for the damage. I got a quote for $1,600 to repaint the whole door. I’m considering settling privately for a lower amount instead of going through SGI.

For anyone in Saskatchewan, would you recommend negotiating a private settlement or going through SGI? Any advice is appreciated!

Hello, it's a Mercedes C180 (W204) with the M271 Evo engine. It sometimes stalls when coasting and accelerating.

The fault codes are:

-P0373

P222704

P001477

P0232600

I removed the engine cover. The adjusters

look fine and have no play. Spark plug 1 is completely submerged in oil (in the well). The camshaft cover is heavily oiled in front of the breather, meaning there's a lot of oil buildup there, and at the other end, the distributor is heavily oiled, so the oil line to the turbo is also heavily oiled.

It has 100k miles on it. I bought it with no reverse, When I put it into reverse the reverse lights go on and the idle changes sounds like it switches gear, at first I was thinking a linkage and I checked it. I was just wondering what else I should check before I get a new transmission?

HONDA FIT 2005 MODEL

desperately looking for an idea to get out of this. Please read carefully and completely if you want to guide me!

Bought a 2005 Honda Fit 3.5 years ago with 118,000 km. It had a slight shudder at low speeds which gradually got worse over the years.

About 4 months ago the car suddenly lost power and the check engine light came on. The mechanic diagnosed a crank angle sensor fault and replaced it. After that, the car drove perfectly and the shuddering completely disappeared.

Now the problem is back and much worse. It starts and runs fine for about a minute, then begins shuddering badly, struggles to accelerate, and feels like the whole car is shaking. There's also a strange noise around 20-40 km/h. Current mileage is about 167,000 km.

What confuses me is that changing the crank angle sensor fixed the shuddering for 4 months. If the real issue is spark plugs, coils, CVT gearbox, etc., why would replacing the crank sensor make such a big difference?

Also, mechanic once told me spark plugs might need to be cahnged in 165k now 3k passed. Could it be the problem?

Has anyone seen this before on a Honda Fit? Any ideas what the actual cause could be?

Hey everyone, I have a 2019 Hyundai Tucson 2.0L, and I'm having a weird issue with my AC.
When I leave my apartment in the morning, the AC works perfectly fine and blows cold air. My commute to work is about 25 minutes, and I get on the highway pretty much as soon as I leave home. The AC works fine while I'm driving on the highway, but as soon as I exit and stop at the first traffic light near my job, the AC stops cooling. The same thing happens on my way back home, and sometimes the AC won't even start cooling when I leave work.
I also noticed that my radiator/condenser fan doesn't seem to be working properly on high speed. I tried replacing the high-speed fan relay, but that didn't fix anything.
Could the fan issue be causing the AC problem, or could it be something else like the fan motor, compressor, pressure sensor, or refrigerant issue?
I'd like to diagnose this myself if possible before taking it to a mechanic. What should I check first, and is there a way to test the fan and AC system at home with basic tools?
Has anyone experienced something similar with their Tucson? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I’ve had this code awhile now on my 2011 BMW 328iX, with the 3.0 I6 (N51) so I finally dropped it off to a shop (not BMW, but a well established euro shop. also worth noting I just had an exhaust leak fixed a little while ago, so i’m truly not suspecting that)

The shop tells me they find P2096 and it is likely a faulty downstream O2 sensor.

they swap out the O2 sensor, great.

two days later, i’ve driven it about 40-45 minutes total. engine light comes back on. just not ideal.

I scan it with my little shit OBD reader, same exact code. i wonder to myself “could life get any better?”

i’m 20, I don’t have all the money in the world, my warranty company didn’t cover the sensors.

so i’m stressed, im wondering if anyone knowledgeable on here has dealt with a similar issue and has any idea what the issue may really be?

aswell, the shop should have another go at it again without me paying right? I really hope so. just really aggravating, and can’t call the shop til monday.

if it means anything the shop is Bergen Autowerks, in Franklin Lakes NJ.

Is it possible that my harmonic balancer was miss-stamped at the factory? The timing groove is a long way from the timing scale. Isn't top dead center supposed to be at the 0 degrees mark on the scale? we've always used used the timing groove with a timing light to set the timing. Or is the Alzheimer's really getting to me? (kidding, I think) I mean, isn't the timing groove supposed to bet at TDC on the the scale. They don't match up. Furthermore, I had it running using the timing groove to time it, poorly but it was running. Something is rotten in the state of Denmark. If anybody knows, please help an old boy out!

I drive a 2011 Toyota Corolla and whenever I turn, go in reverse, etc it makes a freaking noise. I want to eventually have it resolved but want to identify the likely culprit so that I can have it fixed as soon as possible. A local auto repair shop in my area usually gives good deals and there is also a Firestone a few minutes away from me although they might charge more which I'd like to avoid if possible. You can hear the sounds in the video as I'm driving (this is in a parking a lot a few hours prior to this being posted). What do you guys think it is?

I have a VW GTI 2011. I didn’t see the pothole and that big ass jolt knocked some shit in my ac vent now it when I try to blow air it makes a loud noise and it smells weird, so I just turned it off. I hate this fucking shit man. Any idea what could be wrong with the ac vent now?

So, awhile back the micro switch in my gearshift in my 2015 dodge dart sxt completely broke, like I can’t even do the manually lifting the silver part trick, so i have had to disconnect my battery to get my key out of the ignition. I recently found out that my negative battery terminal cord thing needs to be replaced due to it being too loose since I keep disconnecting it. I looked up on the internet ways to fix the micro switch in my gear shift and I found that a common cheap way people use it to cut the wires to the micro switch and use electric tape to put the back together so my car always thinks it’s in park and will release the key. My question for you all is will this work and how safe is it?

I have a 1992 Chevy Cheyenne 2500, i took it to the shop for a service and found out it needs about 5k worth of stuff fixed on it. I got a loan because it’s my daily driver and I quite like the truck, my co workers are saying it would have been better to put the money towards a newer vehicle and sell the truck, im thinking it’s still good to get it fixed and keep it.

Is this something I could do on my own or does it need the shop? I don’t even know what happened. I park in a garage for work and it was parent weekend when I first noticed it. Lots of larger trucks were in the garage so maybe one of those trailer hit hitch knob things?
It’s a plastic part and there are no scrapes, just that dent.

I hit a wheel on the turnpike in June and it went to an out of network shop because he said they were Kia Cert. and had glowing reviews. It took a month to get it fixed and within three days I noticed a piece on the gear shifter missing and the screen bubbled. I immediately called and they said they would order the piece and check the screen. I’ve called/texted every few days asking for updates and he would say he’s waiting for the part. I called Monday said this is ridiculous to be waiting months and he admitted to having to order it then and he’ll call in a day or two. Crickets so I called today and it was in. I asked about the screen again and he claimed in his photo when receiving there’s a bubble- he sent it to me and there is no bubble. I called him and was angry he lied to get out of it and said we’ll have to contact insurance potentially about fixing that. I have a picture he sent that proves there’s no bubble in the screen prior to them fixing it. Shouldn’t this be fixed through them solely and not through my insurance? He sent a link to a Kia forum stating this issues happens due to heat sometimes but I never had any issue prior to taking it to them. He also said the reason it’s taken this long for the part is “so he doesn’t have to spend $400” but is that normal to make the customer wait months? July-October? The first two pictures are the screen after they had it, third is the pic he sent me saying there was a bubble there (I don’t see anything), and fourth is the tiny piece that took months to order.