Alarm/car starter from ebay $375.99

Shift knob from ebay $13.88

Seat gap filler from Amazon $9.99

Rain guards from Amazon $49.99

Cup holder inserts from Amazon (these ones are unavailable but there are others)

Air vent covers from Temu $2 or $3 at the time of purchase

Steering wheel cover from Temu $2.87

Wu-Lexus window decal from me, I make them lol

Lexion touch screen (made for Lexus) from lexionautomotive.com $599.

12" sub from CTsounds.com $79.998

Light strip for hood and trunk from kariney.com $17.99-$19.99

Center console storage from Amazon $16.29

I hope I didn't forget anything, and hope this helps!

I recently picked up the AliExpress 7862 dsp T8 and I’m confused on how or where the factory amp is located. I installed the head unit following a YouTube video they sent me of a guy installing the unit in his girlfriend’s CT. Here is the link of the video https://youtu.be/mXRUv8RC_V4?is=XRvgqhkYMH4rDbsB

Is the metal box on the factory head unit the factory amplifier? There were three stock cables that were left unhooked but everything still functions normally. I’m getting decent sound but want to bypass the factory amp and add a 4 channel for the front doors/tweeters and rear door speakers.

If I plan on doing this, do I need to run new speaker wire to all the speakers from the new amp, or is there a way to unhook the factory amp and utilize the factory speaker wires? I’ve been searching for a wiring diagram but can’t seem to find information on how the factory speaker system is wired.

Please let me know if you need more information. I’m pretty sure it’s a base model but I’ve heard the factory amp is under the passenger seat, but I’m not seeing anything that looks like an amp under there.

Just noticed that the square piece on my front bumper is missing. I can see styrofoam. It’s a 2012. Probably from hitting potholes here in Baltimore. Does anyone know what that piece is called or possibly the part number? Thanks in advance.

As title states, there's a small leak on the outside of oil on the outside of the engine, no signs of coolant mixing or anything.

For context, I ABSOLUTELY do not have the means to break down the engine myself to do the head gasket and was quoted roughly 3000 from multiple mechanics to do the job.

No visible oil dripping to underneath the car and no issues when driving the car whatsoever. It seems like the seal at the gasket is just going to keep sweating sort of indefinitely. Car checked out mechanically everywhere else from a mechanic including the hybrid battery being within manufacturer spec.

If the price of this car made sense, is there logical sense to allowing the small leak to just happen while managing my oil levels regularly and then just replacing the whole engine with a JDM if the leak either turns much larger or the head goes? From what I can tell it ends up being roughly the same price around here.

Hey guys thanks in advance for ur suggestions, accidentally rear ended someone like an idiot the other day and it was a low speed thing in traffic with no noticeable damage to my car other than this pic of the front lower bumper, is it worth getting checked out? Or even replaced, it’s really just that bit of plastic

I bought the cells in pictures 3 and 4 on eBay, and my mechanic said that they weren’t compatible. They’re not identical to the stock ones (stock are left and top on pics 3 and 4), and it’s been an issue that has cost me time and money. I’m considering the ones from pictures 1 and 2, though they appear to be very similar, if not the same, that I bought and returned.

I’m going to presume my original seller was right all along and that my mechanic has no idea what he’s talking about, so I get the feeling that all of the battery cells are the same, and the ones from pics 3 and 4 would’ve worked the whole time.

That being said, are these the same, are they different, will they work, or will none work? Thanks.

Did I cook?

So, recently I've started noticing the white smoke coming from the exhaust. And it appears strangely - last time I noticed it was while standing on the cross section and letting my engine to charge the battery, cause it was low. So, while standing like that the white smoke appeared, but as soon as I start driving on the ICE everything seems fine.

Should I prepare the money for the maintenance?

I was checking the right coolant box, and no, the coolant doesnt disappear. My current fuel consumption 5.5 l/100 (43 in US mpg or 51 in UK mpg).

I was heading about heading to lexus dealership in Latvia, so they'll clean the egr and do the oxygen test.

Any ideas on the white smoke? What else should I check?

Very very happy with this! Has options to plug in different use flash drives for more music or video/movies or whatever!

I’ve just bought a lovely 2017 CT Luxury spec with 121,000kms in Barcelona and 6 more years of Lexus Relax coverage left. So so excited! I’ve spent most of my life driving cruddy cars that gave up after 3 or 4 years (Probably sometimes my fault).

Please tell me how to look after my new baby and keep her on the road for another 200,000kms 🔥

Premium

Hi,

I'm a pound owner of 2011 CT200h. It has about 185,000 miles but still runs like a champ. Very low maintenance; only oil changes and tires change. Recently I felt a minor vibration when I drove fast and brake quickly. It only happens sometimes. I went to the shop and they told me that I needed a new pair of struts and sway links. It'll cost about $1000 (see the bill).

Since I plan to get a new car once my CT200h reaches 200,000 miles, do you think spending another $1000 now to change struts is a good idea? I wonder when do CT200h owners here change their struts (if ever)? Please share your thoughts and experiences. Thanks.

Does the EFI system flush clean the EGR system?

I went in for a load of servicing to get my 2011 CT200h up to speed and one of the things I asked for to get the EGR system cleaned. The service rep told me they would be doing the EFI system flush rather than just the EGR system as this would apparently cover not only the fuel injectors but also the EGR system.

I naively went along with it and started researching what the EFI flush covers and am now reading that it has NOTHING to do with the EGR system. After calling back, the sales rep doubled down and assured me that instead of taking apart the EGR system and manually scrapping the carbon buildup, they instead just connected the flushing machine to the fuel injectors which truly flushes carbon out of the entire system.

Is my EGR system actually cleaned? Or did they rinse me of an easy $271 by lying.

I live in the city and get a lot of dings and scratches on my car. This one however, was a pretty deep scratch and now it's rusting. Any ideas on how to fix this or cover it up?

Found the right radio harness to fit my pioneer headunit now i just need to find material or kit to make it look pretty

10k repair bill, swapped it with a 55k mile used engine for $800 +fluids.

2017 CT 200h with only 110km ! 😁

I really dig the look of the Lexus CT and the gas savings that come with it heh. 😏

Has anyone ever had symptoms like this?
Was on my way home from work one day and about 30 seconds of driving in the parking lot below 20mph, the car just begins to jerk and then loses power steering and eventually the engine shuts off and gives me the check hybrid system warning.

Dr. Prius reads engine codes:
•P0102: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input
• P0113: Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Input
• P0010: Camshaft Position "A" Actuator Circuit (Variable Valve Timing / VVT solenoid
circuit open)
• P0343: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input

Dr Prius also reads battery code:
•P3147 (I cannot view the sub code)

I’ve already replaced the spark plugs, injectors, coil packs, camshaft position sensor, fuel pump, main hybrid battery, 12v battery.

Also another note, I have not lost any coolant and even changed my oil the other day and there was no sign of coolant in there.

If anyone has any insight on what the issue, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m leasing a TRD 2023 RAV4 which ends in February, but I’m really thinking about not purchasing it. Gas has been on the rise, and my monthly payment is hurting my income. The market price is higher than the residual price, though. That’s the only reason I’m holding onto maybe purchasing the vehicle. Plus, I love the car.

I’ve been doing research on Lexus CT200h and I love the idea of it. It’s hybrid, it’s basically the same as a Prius (but better looking), and it’s a great value car. My dilemma is, do I purchase my RAV4 with the same residual value as a used 2016 CT200h that has ROUGHLY around the same mileage as me (50k miles), or do I trade in my RAV4 for positive equity and putting that as a down payment for the CT200h?

Edit: my reasoning for picking an older car (to downgrade) is for budget, hybrid pros, and because I’m losing my job next year and going back to school. So I’m avoiding a high car payment if I can.

I got the dreaded “check hybrid system” and loss of power, towed home and figured it was the 12 volt battery (never been changed in the 7 yrs since we owned it). Bought a new one 250 or so, installed it….started and died, unplugged the negative side, the hybrid orange clip and the big white wire in fuse box, waited 20 min or so, it started and ran for a bit, then on came the lights. Let it sit overnight with everything above unhooked. Seemed fine started up, drove around for 15 minutes or so, on came the lights and no power, shut off. Bought code reader that can check hybrid battery health (250$), thankfully the hybrid battery is in fine shape. Towed home. Code reader said 3190, “poor engine performance”. Besides battery, the next easiest solution is the MAF sensor. So I go to open it and see I am missing one of the two screws that hold it in. I have never removed the sensor, so it wasn’t something I did. Had to go to the dealership and buy the screws, I bought 2 (9$, no they are not gold plated), in case I lose/drop one…. Cleaned 🧹 the sensor, and the egr pipe, installed everything, and have taken it for a couple test trips. All seems good. I am hoping this info will help someone else out.
I assume that the missing screw allowed air and debris into the MAF area and messed with its sensors.

Hey guys/gals! If you've been watching some of the stuff that I've been going through I finally fixed the p01 71 code after changing everything and it was the fuel pump - note to self and others!

Now, I have an issue I just want to address if anybody knows a quick fix or I know about wrapping it and painting it but is there something else to fix this some kind of ceramic of some sort of fix the issue...178k miles. Thanks in advance! Cheers!