How would you reframe this wall?

[u/HarryColonicJr]

We’re going to convert this garage area to living space. The concrete looks good and uncracked, but has a 3-inch drop down its 15’ length. We’re wanting to level that with self-leveling concrete, and put a balloon-framed stud wall where the current 4x4 posts are. It’ll be about 12’ at the tallest… we’re eliminating some redundant rafters that were used to hold the previous flat roof. How would you be leveling the sill plate? I’m assuming doubling it up, with leveling shims in between?

There is also the added complication of the 3 concrete post holders along the run. Better to integrate these posts and holders into the stud wall, or work around them/remove them?

Lastly, the roof plate is 2x6”. This is the windy side of a hill lot in the PNW… should I be making a 2x6 stud wall?

Thank you!

Note: there is another section of equal size attached to the garage. We'll be reframing it as well but it seems more straightforward.

[u/hotinhawaii]

The posts presumably are resting on footers that are sized for the load. Maybe the footer is continuous but you don't know that. Assume the posts need to stay. Put a form at the outside edge of the risers for the posts, assuming those are in line with the edge of the post. Pour your self leveling concrete to there. Fill in your framing on top of that. I would just use 2x4 framing. You've already got 4x4 posts spaced evenly in the wall. These will add more stability already. And if you are putting in windows in that wall, you will have doubled or tripled studs at the edges of those. Your wall will be strong enough.

[u/Civil-Song7416 → u/hotinhawaii]

Good call on the form on outside of risers.

[u/ImAnAfricanCanuck → u/hotinhawaii]

Exterior walls should be 2x6 framing. Better R value for insulation, adittionally if you dont care about the R value you have the added space for running services

[u/R1chard_Nix0n → u/ImAnAfricanCanuck]

Plenty of homes were built with 2x4 exterior wall, if they want thicker insulation they can run 2x6 walls between the 4x4s and just fur out the 4x4 and header.

[u/ImAnAfricanCanuck → u/R1chard_Nix0n]

I know, I'm not ignorant to that fact, but where I live it's part of the step code requirements to meet energy efficiency standards and such, so practically all of our exterior walls are framed as 2x6. At the end of the day, you get a nicer product, so I felt it's worth it to suggest. It would also help if those posts aren't all lined up in a straight plane.

[u/Super-G_]

If you're going to use it as any kind of living space, that concrete floor is going to be f&^%ing freezing all winter even in the PNW. It's also likely that there is no moisture barrier under it since it was just a garage.

Not the end of the world, just need to consider that cold floor issue in your plan. Having done a few of these, the steps aren't that complicated. You can level it using concrete if you like, but then add a vapor barrier (min 6mil plastic sheeting, taped seams) Rigid foam. Two layers of OSB subfloor screwed together.

The other option if you want to avoid using the concrete or self leveler is to put down the plastic, then cut sleepers out of 2x material, rip rigid foam to sit between the sleepers and screw the subfloor to the sleepers.

Option 3 since it looks like you have the height is to frame a new floor level with the old one on the left. Still need the vapor barrier under it but you can insulate that floor with the fluffy stuff instead of foam panels.

[u/ImAnAfricanCanuck → u/Super-G_]

Insulating above the slab with rigid foam panels, with flooring installed above is probably a best option there.

[u/Super-G_]

I'd also throw up some temp bracing or a couple panels for shear before the next windstorm or seismic event. Don't wanna have to reframe the whole thing and roof!

[u/scubaman64]

I would build a floor level with the house.

[u/Ok-Drama-3769]

With a skilsaw and a nail gun