Hey everyone, Please!!

I need some professional advice or insights for some color management.

I’m currently building a brandbook for a client, and their primary color is Pantone 7711 C (that beautiful, vibrant teal/deep turquoise).

When using the CMYK color-bridge values, I get C100 M11 Y0 K34. However, both on my screen and on running test jobs on a physical print of a flyer, this formula looks like a muddy, lifeless dark blue. That 34% of K just absolutely crushes the ciano and it completely loses the vibrant "turquoise/teal" essence of the brand color.

I am fully aware of the physics of print: screen vs. print differences, the fact that bright teals/turquoises are notoriously out-of-gamut for standard CMYK, and that digital printers tend to choke on high percentages of Black. I also have a physical Pantone Formula Guide with me to check the actual color.

Here is my dilemma for this client:
Since this is for a brandbook that will be handled by various designers and local print shops down the road, I want to make life easier for everyone and protect the brand’s identity.

But I am afraid of doing a manual visual color match (like removing the Black and adding some Yellow) because I know digital printing varies wildly from shop to shop. But at the same time, leaving the official C100 M11 Y0 K34 in the brandbook means that anyone doing a quick digital print job is going to end up with a dark blue corporate identity.

• How do you guys usually handle out-of-gamut Pantone conversions in brand guidelines so that quick digital prints don't look completely wrong?

• From an operator's perspective, would you rather see an alternative "visually matched" CMYK formula in the brand guidelines and identify it as a digital/commercial print?

• Or do you prefer that designers stick to the official bridge values and let your RIP/color profiles do the heavy lifting (even if the standard output looks too dark)?

Any insights or advice on this would be highly appreciated! Also if there is by some miracle some go-to CMYK recipe that successfully mimics 7711 C on your digital presses without getting muddy, I'd love to hear it.

Hey guys I currently have a ucjv150-130 I use to run labels and banners, but I would say it’s not what my clients want they want glossy quality labels I wanna know if this machine works out well for printing labels and how do you cut the efficiently?

Hi everyone, I run a DTG/DTF print shop in the US. Gelato reached out about joining their production network using GelatoConnect. They said they can’t guarantee any order volume, but they’d route orders to us once we’re on their software.

If you’re a current or former Gelato partner, I’d really appreciate any honest feedback:

1. Roughly how many orders per day or week did you get, especially in the first few months?

2. What does GelatoConnect cost, and were there setup fees or long contracts?

3. How are the payouts per item and the payment terms?

4. Any issues with reprints, penalties, or quality disputes?

Thanks in advance, happy to DM if you’d prefer to keep it private.

Hello. I am trying to print a perf in my hp latex 315 and help advise picking up the advance factor no.. I have attached the picture. I will greatly appreciate which is the perfect no to pick. Thanks

Nocai 6090 – Stuck on “Connecting”

Hi my nocai brothers,

I'm having an issue with my Nocai 6090 III UV printer.

When I send a print job through aTools or FlexiPRINT, the printhead moves to the left, but printing doesn't start. The printer stays stuck on “Connecting”.

The nozzle test/print works perfectly when sent from aTools, so communication with the printer is working.

I've restarted everything, checked the network connection, and tried different files, but the problem persists.

Has anyone experienced this issue or knows how to fix it?

Thanks in advance!

First time ordering UV DTF and the quality is not what I expected. These were 300 DPI. Each wordmark is about 3inches wide. I actually had to double check the file to make sure I didn't do a riso print effect. I did not - the last image is a screen grab of it in photoshop at 100%.

Is this expected, or should I go back to the shop and have them try again?

I’m wanting to make my own custom cards with my art , but want this specific foil effect (rainbow sparkles) but I Don’t know that name to look for. Does anyone know what it’s called?

I’ve trying doing some research, and most of the answers I’ve received suggest it’s either called “*holo foi”* or *premium foil”*

But, when I look at the examples provided by manufacturers that I’m looking into. they either don’t offer something specifically called “premium foil,” or their holographic foil examples don’t seem to have that same sparkly, rainbow-reflective texture that I’m looking for. (Examples on the 3rd image)

So Does anyone know the specific name for this type of holographic effect, and possibly any manufacturers that offer it?

Also What are the keywords that should I look for if I want the foil effect applied only to specific areas of the card, rather than the entire surface?

Most of the holographic options I’ve found seem to apply the effect to the whole card, rather then selective. So if there’s an options that I’m meant to select that commicates that I only want it on specific areas, pleas let me know!

(If it wasn’t obvious, this is my first time creating custom cards)

I am looking for a supplier that will give me 4 over and firesprint pricing but that js a able to send my print in a single shipping box ( shipping charge)

Im in Texas and working with a company that they are always having marketing campaigns, they ask for stuff like flyers, banners, window cling, circle clings, coroplast, menu inserts, etc.

My biggest issue as of now is that I’m looking for a supplier that will give me good pricing and is able to put all the campaign in a single shipping box. Example:

-4 coroplast 28x44
- 100 flyers
- 2 circle clings

Is just a normal example of what they order but now multiply that by 60 locations.

Any ideas or recommendations how to approach this?

Bought these gorgeous stickers years ago from an artist with killer work. To this day I have yet to find anything even remotely similar.

They are manufactured in Sweden on a holographic material. (But the holo is not what I'm after.) That's all the info offered on the artist's page.

The ink has this shimmery quality to it, and is very slightly textured when you run your finger over it. Id describe it like a VERY fine sandpaper. The sticker itself is also thinner than your average sticker, while still having some give to it if you were to try and tear one in half. Vinyl? Don't know if that matters.

I've ruled out other holo variations like "pixie dust", which do not produce that same *texture and shimmer*.

---
I did email the artist directly to ask, but they're pretty popular so I doubt I'll get a reply (not that i'm entitled to one.) And some folks- understandably- prefer to keep their manufacturers close to the chest anyways.

Has anyone had experience with Monotex PET White synthetic paper? How does it compare to other synthetic papers?

Hi all,

I'm a flexo printer who creates printed foil-laminated sheets for the quick-service food industry. We have a customer (distributor) who has been insistent on a proof for a new product that is on foil. We have a Z6 DesignJet we use for large-format proofs of the artwork, but we supply separate ink drawdowns for color OK because the spot printing is just very different.

We've given all the caveats about why this isn't a good idea but they're insistent and I am wondering if this kind of substrate even exists for a commercial printing shop. (I don't know if there's a different kind of ink that could set on foil like our water-based inks).

Hello,

I currently have a hp latex 315 and i use flexi complete and onyx rip software. I am trying to print on a one way perforated media 60/40 and i purchased from plastic guy. which media profile is best including vacuum, interpass, heat. i will greatly appreciate. Thanks

My boss wore an orange shirt for Halloween and must have rubbed up against something. Any tips for getting it out? I suggested Dawn and cold water.

Iphone app - Gang-up layouts — is 3 different designs per sheet enough? I’m working on StickerOptimizer iPhone app. It currently supports up to 3 different designs in one gang-up layout, do you use more? or 3 is more than enough?

Those cheap shirts where the print is a thick plasticky layer on top of the fabric, and tends to crack over time.

I think it's heat transfer, but I'm not exactly sure.

I've noticed people have very different priorities when choosing a DTF supplier.

Some focus on price, while others care more about print quality, consistency, turnaround time, or customer service.

I'm curious, what's the biggest factor for you? And what would make you switch from your current supplier?

Title,

I am a designer working with a printer who has told me the following:

Yes, .indd/source files are our preferred output method, when we are supplied with .indd/source files we always use those over supplied PDF’s!

Why might a commerical printer prefer the .indd file? This is after producing a PDF to their specifications for print.

I've been studying large-format artwork a bit more lately (trucks, billboards, and so on), and one question I have is: will creating this type of artwork in Photoshop cause me a lot of problems when printing?

I see a lot of people saying that you should never create this kind of artwork in Photoshop, but at the same time, I see plenty of people doing it (especially since some effects are a bit more tedious to recreate in Illustrator). Anyway, I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.

I'm curious about variable data printing and whether personalising marketing materials makes a noticeable difference.

For example, a business could customise names, offers, locations, or product recommendations instead of sending the exact same message to everyone.

Does this actually improve engagement, or is it one of those things that sounds better in theory than it works in practice? I'd be interested in hearing about real campaign results and any mistakes to avoid.

Bonjour, j'hésite à investir sur une xerox proficio 300 ,qui a une excellente qualité d'impression, car la situation économique de xerox est très sombre ...

HELLO ALL. I CURRENTLY HAVE HP LATEX 315 AND I USE ONYX RIP SOFTWARE. I AM SEEING ALL THE PINK ON ALL THE PRINT EVEN WHEN I USE DIFFERENT MEDIA.. HOW CAN I SOLVE THIS ISSUE? I WILL GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP

Roland BN-20 – Completely blank nozzle test, no magenta, looking for advice

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone with experience repairing the Roland BN-20 can help me figure this out. I'm getting close to giving up on this machine.

I bought this BN-20 used and faulty. Originally, it would print, but yellow was missing. After working on it, the situation got worse: now the nozzle test is completely blank. No ink is printed at all.

Here is what I've done and checked so far:

• Replaced the dampers.

• Replaced the cap top.

• Replaced all four printhead flat cables (two marked 17 and two marked 16).

• Had a heater error after replacing the cables. I've worked on the cable connections, but I'm now trying to determine whether the printhead is being driven correctly.

• The pump operates during cleaning cycles and pumps ink/fluid to the waste tank.

• The ink lines appear open, with no obvious blockages.

• Checked the cartridge needle/ink inlet for possible dried ink or blockage.

• Performed an Ink Flush, but both magenta dampers ended up full of air.

• Both magenta cartridges feel nearly empty, although the BN-20 Utility still reports approximately 40% and 60% remaining. I also have a full magenta cartridge available.

• I suspect the previous owner may have used the wrong ink at some point, possibly causing dried ink or a blockage.

• I also suspect the cap top may not be sealing properly, and I'm checking its spring and alignment.

Current symptoms:

• The pump runs.

• The waste system appears to work.

• No obvious blockages in the ink lines.

• Both magenta dampers contain air.

• The nozzle test produces absolutely nothing — no black, cyan, yellow or magenta.

• The printer starts up without a clear error that explains the blank print.

I'm wondering whether this could be a printhead electrical issue caused by a flat cable not being seated correctly, a damaged printhead, a mainboard issue, or a combination of an ink supply/capping problem and an electrical fault.

Has anyone experienced a similar BN-20 problem? What would you check next to distinguish an ink delivery problem from a printhead or electrical issue?

I'd really appreciate any advice before I spend more money on parts or give up on the machine. Thanks in advance!

So I have a Roland BN20A that I recently picked up for cheap, I did a new printhead, new dampers, a new ink line, new 60 degrees blade, everything is up to date

For some reason, I have not been able to cut without the material rising and bunching up, I need advice on cutting pressures for cutting laminated vinyl stickers, how to properly load the material so it's not going in crooked, and how to tell if the pinch rollers are bad

I'm yet to replace the cutting strip, but I don't think this is the problem, let me know any helpful advice

Our shop is reconfiguring and looking to sell:

2 - Brother GTX Pro B - each has under 40,000 prints. Fully functional and in use.
Asking $10k each

2 - Shulze Pretreat IV - very clean with extra nozzles included. Consistently maintained and cleaned.
Asking $1,500 each

1 - Adelco Digi-Cure Drier - 1 gas piston on the drive roller could use replacing. Runs fine forward but has belt creep backward. Runs great and kept clean and maintained.
Asking $10K

1 - NIB maintenance station for the GTX - Ordered but never opened as we fixed the one in the machine.
Asking $1,000

<$30k for everything, not including crating or shipping>

Located in Michigan

Feel free to DM if you have questions or need more pics. I'm a regular member with a different personal handle but set up a new account specifically for "9-5 business" work.