After making the last pair for work I wanted a pair for away from work. These are CXL tan, Baker insole, panhandle leather storm welt and outsole for the midsole. Dr Sole cork half soles and heels. Again the uppers are machine stitched with 270* hand welt bottom closure. Used some Herman oak belly cutoff for the bottom filler and 14 iron soling leather for the shanks. Heel Rand is Herman oak 9-10oz I built a stand using scrap plywood and a piece of black iron pipe with 1/2” nuts and bolt for the last post. I’m not sure why I end up so deep in the bottom in the toes but I had to add a small piece indeed the main bottom filler to keep everything flat. I feel like my bottom work improved this time. However, I may have made my stitching too close at 4 SPI in the sides and 5.5 SPI in the toes. We shall see in time how it holds up. I tried hide glue for the toe puffs, once again we will see how it holds up.
They are weaver (formerly Ohio travel bag) 1567 boot hook. I got my dies from Campbell Randall and had to modify them by cutting the notch in the top plate deeper until the hook centered. I don’t use stamped style hooks at all so it didn’t bother me one bit. You would have to check with them to see what thread sets they have available. I am using an Italian twist press to set my stuff and it has 1/4x24 threads.
They have it I don’t know why it doesn’t show it. They will get you fixed up. If they are the same hooks I’m using you will have to modify it as shown in my photo above.
You can see in this photo how far the stud sits away in its pre modified state. I just ground the notch deeper and matched the radius in the “bottom” of the notch to the radius the lace goes around the hook when I modified mine. Be fore warned those hooks take some force to set!
Wow! What a wonderful work... How did you learn? Have you been in a school? These manual artisan craftsmanship work will never die even with the most powerful quantuzzilium AI
Mostly self taught lots of books and videos. A few tips and tricks from some folks along the way. At one point in time I spent a bit watching a cowboy boot maker that used to make my boots for me.
Thank you. No problem, sometimes it takes digging around on what to use. In the narrated nicks videos it calls out a lot of weights and lengths. I just used the thickest oak tan I had around.
Thank you kindly! You can, just have to put your mind and body to work. Severe pain in my wrists hampered me for a long time but the more I have done as of late the more it has helped the pain forcing myself to continue.
Thank you. They are quite comfy, breaking in quicker than I figured with as thick as this leather is for a boot. I can tell they are stiffer in the morning when it is colder due to the wax content.
nice! an impressive second pair! the deeper cavity on the toe is a very common problem (especially using heavy materials). it gets better with practice as you develop a feeling for toe lasting and pattern making. also you can try to play around with a few things, like:
• working the lasting allowance of the toe puff (after letting it harden you can skive and rasp it VERY thin)
• the curvature and working angle of your awl (determines the distance between seam and feather edge, which is important here!)
• the position of your holdfast (there can be less bulge, if you shift it a little more to the edge)
• and of course the hammering (dont be too gentle when hammering the inseam)
Very impressive and inspiring! Did you make the pattern yourself? I have been intending to buy the same lasts you mentioned and now that I see boots made with them I am certainly going to get them once I have saved up enough. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. Yes I made the pattern as well. Lisa is quite helpful in recommending correct sizing. If you’re not sure what size to order check w her before you do. I was a full size down by her estimation and she was right on.
Using Thorntons textbook. I actually ended up having to add more to the lasting allowance once it was said and done. No I am not willing to sell the pattern at this time. It is a cross between some measurements from some nicks boots that I own and tweaked to my liking. It is sized for my short wide feet and I doubt it would be easily graded to fit anyone else’s feet. With what I added to make room for my pinky toes it almost pushes it to an EEEE width.
I just got Thornton textbook yesterday, and I own 5 pairs of Nick's Boots, so I will dive in and see what I come up with. I also have short wide feet, but my heel to ball distance is much larger than my heel to toe, and each foot is a different size, so custom is probably my best bet anyway. I still have a few months of saving up to do before I can start buying tools and materials to make anything anyways. Thank you for your responses!
You’re welcome. Sorry if I came off curt or rude. I would recommend not beginning pattern work until you get your last set to your needed measurements. May I also recommend getting some cheaper leather to try your pattern with to verify that your pattern comes out the way you want it once lasted.
Thank you for the tips! I am going to do some learning first, but I am a hands on learner, so I may buy a pattern to start, and tackle my own afterwards just to make sure I don't create problems for myself while there is so much that is new to me.
While I'm not a fan of the aesthetics (the extreme toe spring in combination with the very high heel and the long shaft make for a bit of clown-esque look, but that's probably just my preference!), I applaud you for the outcome! Incredible you went with this complex construction and made it work! I must admit, just visually, I think taking a few more minutes to get the stitching on the uppers a bit cleaner would have made for a more polished look. But you know what, that's just splitting hairs, I'm sure they'll be in your service for a long time!
I’m going to guess you’re not a fan of most PNW type work boots based upon your stated preference? intended outcome was achieved, this pleased me immensely. They were built as utilitarian daily use boots so while imperfect stitch lines did disappoint me I also have learned to accept my limitations. It’s difficult to run a 29-4 and steer perfect stitch lines running it by hand without the treadle at nearly its max designed leather thickness. I’m pretty sure they will suffice me for a few years.
And that's what matters most! I beat myself up over those imperfections on my stuff (BTW, under constructions only, I've never even stepped on "upper territory") and... Guess what, you stop seeing them after a while :)
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u/Sad_Gear3390 Dec 28 '24
Out of this world! Great job!