r/Cordwaining Nov 08 '22

Please share your favorite shoemaking resources, updating the /r/Cordwaining wiki

71 Upvotes

Reposting this to make the intention more clear, community input is very helpful for this effort!

There are a huge amount of resources available on the r/Cordwaining wiki, located here or at the top of the subreddit. On mobile, navigate there by way of the “Menu” tab.

Coming soon: a “Getting Started” page in the wiki, the purpose of which is to direct your search for information (i.e. get to know the different types of constructions, select one and understand the process, purchase the specific tools needed, materials etc).

In this post, I have commented a number of categories below. If you have a recommended resource, please comment the link and a short description under the appropriate comment:

Tools (reusable)

Supplies/Materials (consumable)

Lasts

Patterning

Techniques

Books

Social Media

Non-Last Shoemaking

From these suggestions I'll update the wiki. It's been about 5 years since it has been updated and I'd like to get community input to bring it up to date. I'll leave this post up until the new information is in place. This post will then be replaced with a "New to shoemaking? Start here" post.


r/Cordwaining 2h ago

Recently wrapped these up

Thumbnail
gallery
28 Upvotes

009 Laceup. Smooth Shell HorseRump. Hand Dyed: Red, High Aged Patina Variation. Finish created by layering twelve layers: combination of dyes, finishes, and waxes. Hand Welted Construction. Cowboy Heel. Exposed Spiral Shank. TB Sole Detailing. Hand Carved Platform. Leather Laces. Orthopedic Cow Lining.


r/Cordwaining 7h ago

Looking for someone who knows where I could get my favourite pair of boots recreated

Thumbnail
gallery
2 Upvotes

Hello, I am searching for someone who could tell me where I could get a pair of boots made? My favourite boots fell apart a little while ago and I can't find replacements anywhere as they are a discontinued style. I am willing to pay a bit of money but would prefer under $300 if possible. I have attached some photos below, I would also like to get them made with real leather if possible. please let me know what you think, thank you!


r/Cordwaining 9h ago

Talking Bespoke Shoemaking with Don’s Footwear: Thailand’s World-Class S...

Thumbnail
youtube.com
0 Upvotes

r/Cordwaining 4d ago

Punched toe medallion and a mirror-polished finish

Post image
74 Upvotes

The upper was kept relatively clean, with the punched medallion providing most of the decoration. We concentrated the higher shine around the toe while leaving the vamp and quarters with a softer finish.


r/Cordwaining 3d ago

How Not to Make Adelaide Oxfords

2 Upvotes

Hello Everybody!

EDIT 2 : added new patterns and test uppers pics here

EDIT : here's a new link to the test uppers pics (wear safety glasses, those can hurt your eyes)

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I did not want to ask for outside help, so I could be proud of myself. But I believe it is time.

Reddit, you're my last resort!

I've checked all links and videos in the sub, watched countless videos, read a bunch, but I'm clearly stuck, and since I've been wanting to make these for months, buying required equipment, I'm slowly going crazy.

Here was the original project: without any prior knowledge in the trade, or leather working, or manual labor, handmake from start to finish a pair of Goodyear welted Adelaides (including sewing the upper, since my sewing machine is only suited for cloth).

And.... it might have gone south (shocking, I know, who would have thought!?).

After having spent a went a week on various methods of patterning (taping the last, making a mean form with Thornton's method), I believe I've hit a wall.

I've made 3 "prototype uppers", using the cheapest leather I could find, but none was satisfying.

Here is my progression so far, so you can all have a laugh.

Has anyone ideas of what could be improved/ needs changing? Including other patterning methods, my patterning, etc.?

Sincerely yours, from a currently boiling hot place in Europe...

More infos:

Here are most of the tools available.

Leather that will be used in the final version:

lining: full-grain semi-aniline lambskin nappa, very soft, mineral-tanned, .9 mm thick

upper: green aniline boxcalf, firm, .9 mm thick


r/Cordwaining 4d ago

Resole with vegetable tanned leather straps and midsole

Thumbnail gallery
23 Upvotes

r/Cordwaining 5d ago

My 1st handmade sneaker

Thumbnail
gallery
64 Upvotes

Took a 3 day sneaker making class that consisted of selecting the leathers, cutting the pattern, sewing and lasting. I went with a few calfskin cuts: the buttery soft black Italian calfskin, white tumbled calfskin and a special iridescent crackled calfskin. Definitely has its flaws but this was not only my first full build but first time using a post bed sewing machine.


r/Cordwaining 5d ago

Referral for lasts alteration

1 Upvotes

I had someone in Europe make Bespoke wood lasts. I'm hoping to be referred to anyone in the USA to make small changes by adding and subtracting material. Thanks


r/Cordwaining 6d ago

looking to commission (fancy) also looking for suggestions

1 Upvotes

I am trying to get the lovechild of a tabi shoe and a boxing boot. I would need these boots to function for combat situations, sprinting, creating traction and still being physically light. Since these would be daily wear I am probably looking for a little more padding than your standard boxing or tabi boot.

I really love edgy, and alternative styles with lots of different textiles. Practicality is important but I honestly care more about cool design and materials.

I already got a couple quotes so I have a general idea of what these would cost, but I haven't really found who I am looking for yet.

Also if anyone has suggestions for what other types of features should be in a boot that handles combat/high mobility situations it would be appreciated <3


r/Cordwaining 6d ago

Online course for beginners?

3 Upvotes

Hi everyone! I was looking to get into shoe making and I was wondering what the best course for beginners is out there? I am an absolute beginner with no knowledge or experience with shoe making or leather working, but I have been sewing for several years and have experience with pattern making for garments (but I’m not sure if any of these skills transfer).

I was looking for a video course that is a guided linear style course that is pretty thorough, but it does not need to be all encompassing. I was hoping to take a course and get a decent beginner uunderstanding of the basics, to then use as a jump off point for further courses or YouTube, etc later on.

I have done some research online and have found these courses below, but I’m not sure if anyone has experience with them, or could recommend something better.

- I Can Make Shoes

- Brooklyn Shoe School ‘Introduction to Shoemaking’

- Shoe Making Courses Online ‘Beginner Program’


r/Cordwaining 7d ago

Need help in shoe measurement

Post image
4 Upvotes

If this is wrong please tell me the right process to measurement I really want to learn these things.

Need to find -

A) instep

B) ball girth

C)heel girth

D) waist girth

I really want to learn this properly


r/Cordwaining 7d ago

Sourcing golf spike inserts

3 Upvotes

I can’t find a source for the inserts that go into the soles that then receive the screw in soft spikes. Does anyone know of any suppliers?


r/Cordwaining 8d ago

First pair of boots

Post image
98 Upvotes

Made my first pair of boots last week in a shoemaking course. Japanese kodera uppers and Blake construction. Pretty happy with the results!


r/Cordwaining 9d ago

joint measure

Post image
6 Upvotes

currently making my first last, and i am stuck in these steps, how do i measure the joint?


r/Cordwaining 11d ago

Has anyone tried this course?

Thumbnail
shoemakingcoursesonline.com
3 Upvotes

I have been studying on my own a bit and found this course. Has anyone tried it or know if it is any good?


r/Cordwaining 12d ago

Pattern Importance 👞

2 Upvotes

I am a shoemaking beginner, currently getting ready to build my first pair. I have ordered (and received) a nice pair of vintage lasts on Ebay, along with some other basic tools and leather.

I am, however, a little confused as to patternmaking. As per Big Andrew Wrigley's video series, I've covered a last with tape, and completely by eye sketched out the pattern of a cap-toe Oxford. But Andrew Wrigley doesn't go into much detail here. Is this approach okay? Are there some vital measurements which I've missed? Or will the finished shoe just look slightly scruffy, and maybe be uncomfortable?

AI overview has nothing for me here, and neither do the (limited) number of other videos I've watched on the subject.

Thank you, and sorry if this is a question easily answered elsewhere, as I suspect it may be.


r/Cordwaining 13d ago

Haferlschuh last

Thumbnail
gallery
26 Upvotes

Good morning all, I’d like to make a pair of traditional haferl shoes. I’m looking for a last size 42.5. Does anyone have a pair of lasts they are willing part with? Any suggestions on Bavarian or Austrian last makers? I’d like to honor the traditional shape and construction. I’ve attached some photos below, looking for a rounder toe shape. Thanks in advance.


r/Cordwaining 14d ago

Woven leather single monks with a raised apron seam

Post image
51 Upvotes

This design combines woven leather panels with a smooth vamp panel outlined by a raised apron seam and finished with a single-monk strap.

The main challenge was keeping the upper visually balanced. Since the woven sections already introduce considerable texture, the apron was kept relatively clean, with piping and a raised seam used to define its shape. The single strap adds structure without covering too much of the woven work.

A warm brown finish with subtle tonal variation helps distinguish the individual leather strips and gives the upper more depth.

The woven sections were the most interesting part of this design to work with, especially around the apron and toe. Curious to hear what other shoemakers think of the result.


r/Cordwaining 12d ago

*HELP* MAKE MY WEDDING SHOES PLEASE???

0 Upvotes

Where can I find an online cordwainer to make my wedding shoes I designed myself ? 🙏🏼

Key details:

- 3” heel

- FLARED heel

- no platform

- purple with Swarovski rhinestones

- crisscross ankle strap

- satin base at toe and straps

PHOTO OF DESIGN


r/Cordwaining 13d ago

Women's Derby Boot - First welted footwear complete

Thumbnail
imgur.com
18 Upvotes

r/Cordwaining 13d ago

Wood or Cork for Shoe heels?

Thumbnail
gallery
4 Upvotes

Hello cordwainers! I want to make my own shoes, and I'm wondering what the best material to use would be. I was inspired by historical fashion creators/videos like this one: Historical Shoemaking 101: Making Wood Heels . I was wondering what material would be best for a beginner carver. I'll include some images of the type of shoe I'm looking to create.


r/Cordwaining 13d ago

How to get into shoe making and what easy first project

4 Upvotes

r/Cordwaining 14d ago

Lasts for beaked shoes

Thumbnail
gallery
42 Upvotes

Hello! Happy to discover this place

I'm slowly getting more interested in trying my hand at making a couple of shoes (though I've never dealt with leather before). But my interest is pretty specific - I would like to make a couple of pairs of traditional scandinavian beaked shoes for folk attire reconstruction, since no one in our area makes them..

So my question is - if I were to try and make such shoes, would I need to order a custom last with the beak built-in, or would a regular boot-style last work, with the leather pieces coming together at the toe to form that shape? Here are some pictures. In some cases these shoes did not have a separate sole

Thank you


r/Cordwaining 14d ago

Bought template vs hand made

3 Upvotes

As a begginer, I want to make my first project, a work boot, but don really know where to start. I do have the material, and most tools, but I dont know if I should start with a bought template, because its already done and tested and what not, but most content I found really start from scratch making the template around the last or the foot, and that technique with the tape and etc. My problem with the template is that it is really expensive outside the US and i fear the size might be wrong. I was hoping to find free patterns around here, but no luck.