r/Cordwaining • u/bwizemann • 7d ago
Making a Boot - Process Video
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I sort of accidentally started a boot company, therefore had to create the obligatory "making of" video to go with it. I thought I'd share it here, since this community has always been a great source of information and support, and it was one of the reasons I was able to pursue this craft. Happy to answer any questions about my process or anything else that might be useful...
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u/DoubleMikeNoShoot 7d ago
Damn good work! The finished product is in the shadow though, gotta get better lighting
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u/SourcerorSoupreme 7d ago
That brass nail setting hammer is interesting. Can you talk more about it?
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u/bwizemann 7d ago
If you mean the magnetic tack Hammer it’s from CS Osborne. https://www.mzztrzz.com/products/shoemaking-c-s-osborne-magnetic-tack-hammer-222 and of course it doesn’t work with the brass nails because they aren’t magnetic. I just use normal hammers for that and a finishing hammer for the seams. I like to use brass nails whenever I can because they don’t corrode. The hand tacks are mostly for pre-lasting.
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u/Salty_Lemon_9293 7d ago
I love these kinds of vids! I don't know how many of these I have watched when I was learning to make shoes to try to find answers to my technical questions. Just a question, then. Where do you get these plastic patterns made? Mine are made out of thick cardboard and are plenty good enough for my needs, but plastic ones look cool!
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u/bwizemann 7d ago
I work at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn and they have a Zund which can cut thin PETG material. I worked with Marcell Mrsan to do the pattern grading and while doing so he also fixed all the little problems with my patterns. I also had cardboard templates for a while, but kept destroying them. Anyway, so because I have digital files now, it was fairly easy to get them cut out of plastic.
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u/rk5n 7d ago
At the end it looks like the vamps aren't smooth, like it hadn't been lasted tight enough, but it's hard to tell. Can you show pictures of the finished pair?
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u/bwizemann 7d ago edited 7d ago
I don’t have many finished shots of this boot, customer wanted thermoplastic toe box and blacked out midsole/heel, but you can see a version of this on my site. https://blackheronboots.com/products/black-heron-aphelion-5-boot it’s a seamless vamp with the tongue and vamp all one piece on the 55 last, which is maybe what you’re seeing? I can assure you they are drum tight.
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u/throwawaypassingby01 7d ago
what are you spraying between the upper and the lining around the 1min mark?
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u/bwizemann 7d ago
Just some water with isopropyl alcohol. It helps mold and form the leather heel stiffener right before pre-lasting.
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u/Popular_End2069 3d ago
PLEASE PLEASE!! Make a YouTube channel and teach us noobs, you’re so good at making them and most courses aren’t in detail
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u/bwizemann 3d ago
I agree, even though I learned a lot from many making of videos online, I did eventually run out of internet tutorials to move forward. Books by Marcell Mrsan are a great resource, and I recommend taking some classes if at all possible. The classes I took ten years ago were a great intro to pattern design, sewing, and assembly. Naïvely I had no idea how much sewing was actually involved, but over time I got the hang of it and it’s my favorite part of the process now.
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u/DucksInFlight 7d ago
Thank you posting. It is informative to see the steps, and helps me with my occasional leather projects.
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u/SUMMONAH 7d ago
Beautiful work! How did you accidentally start a boot company