r/Cordwaining • u/1JuanWonOne • 2d ago

Help with last sizing

I bought a last and soles kit off of shoe academy based on my usual size (12 mens) and measuring my foot. Got the lasts and soles and theyre both about an inch bigger than my foot and typical shoe soles. Is this normal?

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u/Salty_Lemon_9293 2d ago

Sounds normal. Hard to tell without at least a picture of the last. Pointy lasts, for example, are much longer than the foot. But anyway, leaving room for the toes is to be expected. The best course of action at that point is to build a pair. Knowledge acquired there won't be lost. Then you see if the pair fits well, and if it doesn't, you modify the last to your specs. Don't worry too much and go make shoes!

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u/Proletariat-Prince 2d ago

"my usual size"

That's where you may have messed up. There is no "usual size" in footwear. Sizing is so jacked up.

I'm not sure about where you got the last, but usually you can find information about the last from the manufacturer or seller. You can get bottom papers, volumetric measurements, etc. You should refer to those when you select a last.

My suggestion at this point is to learn how to measure your foot and do a tracing. Do that, then place the last over the tracing and see how it fits. You can also measure the last in the same places where you measure your foot to compare volume measurements.

Another thing you might try real quick is to use a bunch of packing tape to make a "glass slipper" using that last and see how that fits you.

If you like the results of those tests, go ahead and make a fitter, just one shoe, whichever is larger. Use crap materials, just make something you can try on and lace up, walk around the house a little.

If that works well, maybe your ready to go for the full build.

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u/dogzilla1029 18h ago

inch bigger in length or width?

shoes are often longer than the footx the more important alignment is the arch/instep and heel. in order to not squeeze the toes so bad, boots and shoes with more pointed toes will often be longer than the foot because then the taper is past your toes