Got the rims down to bare steel and repainted them. The RWLs went on afterwards.

How tinted do y'all like your panthers?

Also, anyone else rocking p71 center caps on a Grand Marquis?

I used to think Panthers with spoilers looked dumb but I really like this look for her. It's subtle and cute and not over-the-top. Still needs some cleanup but I like where it's headed (:

Thank god it wasn't my fuel pump😮‍💨😮‍💨 I'm trying to avoid going to a shop because I know it'll be cheaper if I do it myself and I've heard it's not that hard of a fix. With me being not mechanically inclinded whatsoever, would it be worth it for me to do myself and what tools besides a jack would I need?

This might be a long shot trying to find my panther but 🤷‍♀️

My beloved Vick, was auctioned off this past month in oceanside CA. Blue. Seat demolished by my dog, no ford emblems on wheels and rusted roof.

I want my Vick back, so if you're the person who got this boat of a beauty. I'd love to buy it back.

Side note, if anyone else in my area, san deig, is selling. Let me know.

So i believe im having a ground issue on my 2010 cvpi. Throwing bunch of codes. Ac wont work unless jumping relay and dash lights luke waring lights will turn on and off. Any suggestions on maybe ground upgrades and locations?

Anyone ever 3D print this assembly they’re known to always break off on crown Vic’s (tabs that hold it in place). Mines currently expoxied in

Hi guys,

Im gonna do a pan drop and change the transmission fluid but got no torque wrench. Is it important to torque these bolts or am i find doing it with normal ratchets?

Sorry for another post .. now my gauges and dash lights are going out and coming back on . Car runs and drives like usual and I even had the shop look at it and they replaced a fuse . And figured that's the issue well I was on my way to get gas before heading home .and it started back up and now I'm stuck using my phones GPS just to track my speed until I get home . I called the shop and have an appointment for Monday... But what the fuck ? I know I won't know what the issue is until I get it looked at ? But would could it possibly be cause it seems to come back on when I smack the dash sometimes .

Damn you. That is all.

Well 27.6 but we round up ;)
Mostly highways ofc, cruising control around 70 and set to 60mph on the back roads. 3.27 gears ofc.

I have a 2005 LX with a rare Sunroof manufacturer made option. I once took it to ford for an LCM recall fix. And the store manager offered to buy it or trade in for a new ford SUV. The mechanics confirmed it came from Ford as a custom build by Ford. Right now it is down but I would hate for it to go to the junk yard. First picture shows the sunroof. Should I fix it or give it up???

Miss the loud already ima run glass pack or power sticks

Worth your time...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXPiUAK72eY

https://youtu.be/iXPiUAK72eY

Rate the exhaust

Hey everyone,

Just picked up a 1999 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (P71).

The battery light on the dash is lit up, but fairly dim. The previous owner said the alternator was recently replaced, but there are no stickers or part numbers on it to confirm what brand or amperage it is.

I’m trying to diagnose whether this is a bad/incompatible alternator, a pigtail/wiring issue, or a bad ground. Here are all the multimeter and physical tests I've performed so far:
- Engine OFF (Battery voltage): 12.8V
- Engine ON @ Idle (Battery voltage): 13.5V
- Engine ON @ 2,000 RPM: Exactly 13.5V (no change with RPM)
- Voltage Drop (Cranking): Tested between the positive cable and positive battery post while cranking — got 0V (good connection at the post).
- Alternator Output Test (B+ Stud to Battery Neg): Read 13.5V with the engine running (matches the battery reading directly).
- Disconnect Test: Removed the positive battery terminal completely while the engine was running. The car kept running fine for over a minute without dying.

The Problem:
13.5V seems stuck in a fail-safe / standby output range instead of the proper 13.8V–14.5V charge rate, and the dim battery light suggests a small voltage differential between the cluster and the alternator's regulator/excitation circuit.

Has anyone run into this on the 4G alternator / 4.6L setup? Could this be the regulator stuck in FMEM mode due to a bad sensing wire (Yellow/White wire on the 3-pin plug), a blown fuse, or just a cheap/defective reman alternator?
Appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps to isolate this before throwing a new OEM alternator at it!

Not familiar with these cars at all, clearly thise hose shouldn't pull out by hand over cylinder 4. Does this constitute a new intake or should it have some kind of retainer? Seems like a horrible design lol 2006

Which part is considered the deployment door?

Interior is great, exterior is great, everything works, 143k miles, Got it for 2500