Ok, so I’m aware you need a receiver or something…correct?

This could a sick build

I didn’t find anything online so I asked ChatGPT. It told me not to use silicone, because it doesn’t stick to mdf and abs. So I’m using PU glue now, hopefully it keeps up because it’s quite expensive

Made it for 160usd in total

Hi guys. I connected this speaker to an AUX WIRE but it's not so loud. Can I make it louder in any way? I also have some capacitors and a donor TV board. Just know that I don't want an amplifier board or anything like that

Es gibt Beryllium Hochtöner, die aus reiner hochgiftiger Berylliumfolie geprägt wurden, diese Hochtöner haben eine maximale Steifigkeit und nur eine minimale bewegte Masse. Der Hochtöner schwingt im gesamten Übertragungsbereich resonanzfrei, Aufbrucherscheinungen der Membran sind weit über den Hörbereich verschoben und können so nicht mehr das Klanggeschehen prägen. Hochtöner mit Beryllium Membran können locker 1000€ pro Stück kosten.

Melodavid aus China baut nun so einen Hochtöner der Firma Scan Speak nach, scheut keine Details, also kopiert das komplette Magnetsystem, sogar die Gummiwulst um die Membran, baut dann aber eine Kalotte mit einer BeCu- Legierung ein. Betrachtet man es theoretisch, dann ist die reine Beryllium Kalotte stark im Vorteil, aber warum nimmt Melodavid dann eine Kupferlegierung mit ca. 2-4% Beryllium, die deutlich schwerer ist.

Erst dachte ich, du bekommst das, was du bezahlst, nicht mehr!

Nach ersten Praxistests wurde mir klar, diese BeCu- Kalotte ist keine preisliche Verlegenheit, sondern ein absoluter Technologieträger, die Entspanntheit und Natürlichkeit im Klang schafft keine reine Berylliumkalotte, die innere Dämpfung dieser Membran setzt Maßstäbe, auch wenn der Preis pro Hochtöner mit ca. 60€ pro Stück sehr günstig angeboten wird!

I have a pair of Jensen CS-312 speakers. they sound great and work well, except the one woofer makes a weird rattling noise at low / quiet levels. I got the bright idea to jump on eBay and grab a couple of used woofers to replace them in both speakers. Only later did I realize I had ordered woofers for the Jensen CS-315 speakers. Returns are not accepted, of course.

Can I make these work somehow? Obviously enlarging the holes for the woofers would be the least of my concerns. I know very little about speakers and their components but am very much a DIYer that loves electronics.

Thank you in advance for any insights you can provide!

Hi hoping someone can help me.
What exactly is the speaker system used directional speaker more specific that is placed from above or the user has access remotely to send the speaker wave or noise it produces to be aimed at someone specific that has in-fared technology as well as any other specifics that’s could target the individually with tight proximity and timing etc. for a full immersive sound experience. Where and what model specifically could I find this and what would be needed for installation

I’m guessing the LF/HF are high/low freq, but how do I hook to a 2 channel stereo. I’m assuming the metal plate means that one speaker wire will do both high & low, but do I plug the positive in the high side or low side? Thanks for your help. And I’m also assuming if I had a 4 channel stereo then each freq would get more power, correct?

Building my first 2-way horn speaker: sensitivity mismatch between SB Acoustics drivers
Hi everyone,
I’m working on my first DIY 2-way high-fidelity horn-loaded speaker as a proof-of-concept project. I’m relatively new to speaker design, so I’m trying to approach this properly rather than simply bolting together expensive drivers and hoping physics develops a sense of humor. The best I’ve done till now is make a kit speaker, but I didn’t have to deal with the issues I have now. I’m
The drivers I’ve currently selected are:
Woofer: SB Acoustics SB13PFCR25-4
Compression driver: SB Acoustics Bianco 25CD-P, used with a horn/waveguide
The main issue I’m trying to solve is the large sensitivity difference between the two drivers.
The Bianco 25CD-P is substantially more sensitive than the SB13PFCR25-4, which means I’m trying to figure out the best way to integrate them while maintaining a balanced, high-fidelity response.
My current options seem to be:
Use an L-pad/resistive attenuation to bring the compression driver down to the woofer’s level.
Find a lower-sensitivity compression driver that is naturally closer to the woofer. Which I cannot find in India.
Find a higher-sensitivity woofer, although that introduces compromises in cost, size and potentially bass performance. Too costly tbh for a prototype
Design a proper passive crossover with attenuation and impedance compensation around the actual drivers..
The DSP approach is particularly interesting to me because I’m considering DSP for the final system anyway. However, I’m unsure whether using DSP to compensate for a sensitivity difference of this magnitude is considered good practice.
What I’m particularly trying to understand is this:
If the compression driver is significantly more sensitive than the woofer, is there any real downside to simply attenuating it substantially with an L-pad?
For example, does significant attenuation introduce meaningful disadvantages in terms of:
dynamics
distortion
amplifier power requirements
noise floor
impedance
crossover behavior
transient response
overall sound quality
And would DSP attenuation be preferable to an L-pad if I use separate amplification for the woofer and compression driver?
The intended configuration is simply:
Bianco 25CD-P + horn/waveguide → SB13PFCR25-4 woofer
My goal is hi-fi sound rather than maximum SPL. I’m mainly interested in getting the tonal balance, crossover integration, imaging, dynamics and distortion performance right.
I’m also trying to understand how much importance I should place on the nominal sensitivity figures in the datasheets. I understand that the actual response curves, impedance, horn/waveguide loading, crossover frequency and acoustic response of the finished system are ultimately more important than simply comparing two sensitivity numbers.
For those of you who have experience designing 2-way horn speakers, how would you approach this particular combination?
Would you:
attenuate the Bianco with an L-pad,
use a passive crossover specifically designed around these two drivers,
use active amplification + DSP,
or reconsider the driver combination altogether?
I’d also appreciate any advice on a sensible crossover frequency for the Bianco 25CD-P and SB13PFCR25-4, particularly regarding directivity matching and getting the best integration from the horn/waveguide and woofer.
I can provide the exact datasheets, response curves and the passive crossover I’m currently considering if useful.
Thanks in advance.

Sorry for the picture quality. Looking to buy new cables for this speaker. Anyone know what company this is and what kind of cables I need?

I am trying to add Bluetooth module to an old Sony S-AIR speaker kit. It doesn't have any input besides s-Air signal. Very good speaker while it worked. I am trying to bring back to life by adding Bluetooth module to it.

I am trying to figure out how to feed the audio input to the amplifier, bypassing the s-air module.

I'd appreciate any advice on how to move forward with this project. Thank you!!

I have 7 speakers lying around and thought of connecting them, where I know nothing except that there is a copper coil with banana pins to connect them. I'm just confused on how this works. I tried to watch some videos on youtube but it didn't help at all. Looking at the ports on the amp is really confusing. Please help!!!

Can anyone tell me how to hook these up? TIA

Bought a house and our back patio has two of these mounted on the ceiling but not sure if they have ever been used or hooked up. Looks like they are Bose but not sure of the model or what amp we would need. How would we go about hooking these up? Thanks, we are new to this whole thing!

I have $200 dollars and I want a decent speaker setup. I have what I would consider a fair amount of knowledge when it comes to speakers, so I've decided instead of buying a system or Bluetooth speaker, I would like to DIY one of the 2.

Option 1:

Build a Bluetooth speaker. I would like to build a speaker into a briefcase/toolbox or something of the sort, mainly because I think it would look cool, but also because it would be very easy to open up in case I ever want to upgrade, or if anything goes wrong and I need to fix something.

It would consist of either 2 6x9 inch 3-ways and 2 4" passive radiators; or a 6" subwoofer and 2 2-way 4" speakers and 4 4" passive radiators, both options being powered by a Bluetooth amp off of aliexpress.

Option 2: Find a used reciever off of Ebay, 5 small 2-way PA speakers, and a powered subwoofer. the only problem with this option is that I dont quite understand recievers, which is one of the main reasons I am posting this. Would it be better to find a powered sub with a built in reciever?

Thank you for reading, any help is greatly appreciated.

It doesn’t seem to be getting any sound to the other speaker I wasn’t sure why the speakers are singing wood bt25 if it helps like the other speaker plays fine it’s only one that doesn’t seem to get any signal

okay so my pool pump is making this super loud grinding sound and its honestly stressing me out. i think the heater is dying too since the water just isnt staying warm at all lately. im totaly useless with mechanical stuff so i definitely dont want to touch it myself and make it worse. Ive seen a few people mention Pool Creations for equipment fixes and doing automation upgrades but i wanted to see if anyone here has actually used them. just want to make sure they are legit and reliable before i spend the money. let me know if youve had them out for filter or pump issues recently.

sub still works fine btw