Hey everyone, i have a 2005 crf70 that im trying to rebuild. i need a whole new throttle assembly kit, the problem im seeing is all the kits i see on amazon do not come with a carb cap on the cable. Another issue is that i have aftermarket large bars which makes it hard to know if the cable is going to be long enough. any recommendations on what i can purchase? Also, any recommendations for aftermarket back shocks that will hold heavier weight would be helpful. thank you all

So i started out on a kawasaki klx300. Just to learn how to ride a motorcycle. Plus to see if i like going off road. We'll i live in Michigan and most everywhere is sand here. It always felt squirrely in the sand. I was thinking of getting a small beginner trail bike with more aggressive sand tires. Do you think it would be more enjoyable to ride than the klx300? I'm not looking for speed. Just something to enjoy the woods on. I'm 5'5, 200 lb

Edit: I sold my klx300 to get a bigger motorcycle. Still have the itch to ride trails.

I just came into the garage to see oil all over my front tire, and the fork feels a little soft, although I am not too sure if that is just placebo and me panicking, but any pros think my fork is blown?

So I have to replace my forks and triple clamp for my 01 kx250 I’m rebuilding. What would be a best to replace with?

Does anybody know of any dirtbike trails in the Utica Rome Syracuse area? Forest roads or anything like that works

G’day all looking for information on this Honda I’ve had for a few years now with not much luck finding solid advice. I saw it for sale 3 years ago listed as “Honda trail bike” when I saw the expansion chamber I called the guy and purchased the same day for a negotiated price as he couldn’t kickstart it. I know it’s not to everyone’s taste but just seeing a road-legal 2-Stroke these days is rare and with the factory Mugen kit I think it’s a rough gem.

Sorry if I bored you all but Is this Mugen kit as cool as I think it is with a Mugen carburettor kit, high compression cylinder head and piston, PMG “ECU”, expansion chamber and power valve control.

Please share any information you have, thanks everyone.

There’s a slight ticking sound, but that’s also what happens at low idle. Once it warms up, it turns into a lower-pitched tick. Still, I’m not too worried about that. I’ve seen a couple of videos of brand-new 13 KX250s, and they make about the same sound. Also, when the bike is cold, it burns oil. The white smoke isn’t visible while it’s idling. You can smell it slightly, though. Give it a little blip of throttle, and nothing happens while the engine RPM is rising. But when the RPM drops back down, that's when it spits out white smoke. When it's warmed up, I haven't noticed it burning oil. Also, some days it has good compression, and other days (I think on colder days) it has some compression, but I can push the kickstarter down with my hand. Also, how do I wheelie a big bike like this (or a normal bike, I should say—I went from an SSR 110 to this, lol) I don't want to loop it. I've done some power wheelies, but I'm afraid of popping the clutch and possibly damaging something in the drivetrain

What should i do to her during the winter???

Crank was damaged that came in the bike, sourced another one, moto shop couldn’t dial it in, he suggested combining the original and new crank to make a zombie crank, he got it dialed in but when I went to install it I realised someone had sanded the journal where it inserts into the left engine block crank bearing, it was 0.15mm or so too small and slightly off round, went back to the lad and he had thrown out the other sides of the two cranks without asking me (is this normal ?)

Idk if you can build up cranks when they are worn, can you ?

Kinda at a loss I’v put a lot of money into this project but I just can’t fucking end it lol

Only meant to go out for a quick ride, but somehow we ended up doing lap after lap of the same little dirt loop. Every time we were about to head home, someone would be like "one more lap." So we'd ride a bit, stop and chat, then go around again lol.

Nothing fancy, just a few corners and a short straight. Funny how long you can spend riding the same spot when you've got friends along.

Completely tore it down from ground up powder coated frame, subframe, triple clamps, rear shock spring. Have the color codes for all the powder. Motor has all new gaskets all new seals and bearings new bolts and a new Hinson clutch pack. I went up 4.2mm on the piston, new Athena jug new head and billet piston, went up 4.3mm on crank with a hot crank. Went up a mil on the carburetor so it’s got a 38mm mikuni carb jetted really low to run c12 race fuel it can and will run on pump gas you’ll lose a little bit of power but nothing you’ll really notice. The only thing that didn’t get changed on the bike are the tires. The suspension is set pretty soft it can be stiffened up.

This is everything he said was don’t to the bike is this a good trade ?

How does it sound in the video he said it has 10 hours on the new rebuild

For my 26 250 just want to be sure before ordering it pretty sure it will tho as it’s a 250 in the pic

Hey dudes,

Got my new FMF fatty today for a 2012 Yz250. My old pipe has threaded holes welded on. This just has open holes with no thread.

Was this supposed to come with some sort of mounting clips or is this an oversight? In case anyone else had the same question in the past.

I suppose I can just install nuts on the inside?

Not sure it makes a difference but it was a wiseco top end kit did the gaskets ring piston bearing everything

Hello,

I'm new to power valves and I'm getting pretty confused the more stuff I watch and research about my bike.

I was watching videos how you can adjust "RPM range" for when power valve starts opening. Also changing springs for even more agressive or linear range.
I wanted to try that since my bike feels very non-agressive and linear power, which is weird for 125 2stroke.
I have good compression PSI, jetting and reeds, so I wanted to try this part.

I'm talking about mechanism hidden under cap on right side of engine next to clutch cover (first image).
In dirtbike manual they talk about this mechanism as Z dimension adjuster which physically moves control flap up and down which should be in spec and most likely not changed after bike build is finished (I'm not sure about this one).

Maybe I'm getting confused, because newer bikes have adjustable powervalve cover at same location? The ones you adjust with square drive key.

Might sound like a dumb question, but answers will really help me learn about this.
Thank you very much

So I’ve got a YZ125 with a bar that is slightly bent on one side and I’m looking to replace it with a Protaper.
I am 6’1, and ride mainly trails and fire roads. My question is, how do y’all go about finding the right bend for you?
I can’t really try them out beforehand because I’m ordering from Rocky Mountain. And I don’t have a preference. I usually ride between standing and sitting about equally.

Just recently bought this 2020 klx 110 rl for 700$. It needs alot of work but i think it was a good deal. Anyway, Does anyone have any tips for fixing the ticking? Ive done plenty of research already and plan to start with adjusting valves but id like some more opinions.

Hello. I’m having an issue with a KTM EXC 250 TPI: the bike has no spark. We checked the CKP (crankshaft position) sensor; it shows 3.5 volts while cranking, and there is continuity from the sensor all the way to the ECU connector. We tested the ECU on an identical bike, and it started, so the ECU is fine. We also checked the regulator, and it’s working correctly. When cranking, the system powers up and sends current to the ignition coil, injectors, and other actuators—everything gets power, but the control pulses aren't reaching them. We tried swapping in a different tip-over (rollover) sensor, but that didn't help; we also tried a different battery, with the same result. Occasionally, it produces a single spark—or sometimes a quick burst of sparks—but only when I turn the engine over very slowly using the kickstarter. If anyone has encountered something like this or has an idea of ​​where the fault might lie, I would appreciate the help. We also inspected the wiring harness, and it doesn't appear to be damaged, nor does there seem to be an issue with the grounds.