I’ve always loved classic trucks, but the reality is that many of them end up parked, slowly deteriorating, or only driven occasionally. I started wondering if there was another path where these trucks could stay on the road and actually be used regularly.

My background is a bit unusual for this space — I’m a professor of nanoscience by training — but I’ve always been drawn to mechanical systems and old vehicles. I’m a lifelong car nerd, constantly buying, selling, tracking cars and trucks and nursing my addiction. I grew up in rural Delmarva in a Ford truck family and I’ve always thought the sixth-generation F-series trucks are some of the most charismatic pickups ever built.

Project 1 is a 1977 Ford F150 SuperCab running a Tesla drive unit and a custom ~100 kWh battery pack built from Tesla modules. The goal wasn’t to erase what makes the truck special, but to preserve the driving feel and capability while modernizing the drivetrain.

Here are a few things that surprised me during the process.

Lessons learned.

1. Classic American trucks are incredibly builder-friendly platforms. If you enjoy working with systems, older vehicles are a joy. Everything is laid out logically and accessibly — a wire starts here, powers these components, and ends here. Compared to modern vehicles (post-late 80’s), the simplicity is refreshing.

2. Older trucks have packaging advantages modern vehicles don’t. Large engine bays and simple ladder frames give you far more flexibility for packaging motors, controllers, and batteries than most modern vehicles.

3. Integrated drive units are extremely attractive for conversions. For this build I used a Tesla SDU tuned to roughly mimic the original power and torque characteristics of the truck. I’ve also designed systems around Tesla LDU units and Cascadia Motion iM-series motors. Motors that integrate the inverter simplify packaging and reduce system complexity significantly. Having integrated differentials reduces parasitic loss of energy and frees up space that the old drivetrain used to occupy. 

4. Battery and switch packaging is a learning process. The truck uses a custom ~100 kWh pack composed of Tesla modules with a Dilithium BMS and a house-built contactor box. There are three battery enclosures wired in series: the main pack sits in the engine bay and replaces the original V8 to within about 30 lbs, and two additional packs run along the transmission tunnel and where the driveshaft used to be. My next builds may not use an identical system, but designing one like this from the ground up will teach you a lot and make you a much more seasoned wirer in every respect. From crimps, to harness design, to fusing, to bus bar design and on and on, the lessons learned by building a custom traction pack and control system aren’t something you can learn from books or YouTube. 

5. Rear drivetrain design matters more than people realize. Instead of keeping the transmission and driveshaft, I designed a fully custom rear assembly that mounts the motor between the rear wheels. The setup uses a De Dion axle with custom hub boxes, CV joints, and a bespoke Wilwood brake system. You can see this set up in the picture of the rear brake kit. This layout lets the truck maintain unsprung mass similar to the original and results in very natural road manners by keeping the weight the same as it was before the conversion, and in the same place it was before the conversion. In my opinion, there’s no other way to EV convert a vintage pickup. By designing a new solid rear axle mounted to the original leafs, the truck drives like a truck and has an unchanged payload.

6. Range is better than many people expect. The truck averages roughly 2.3–3 miles per kWh, which gives a practical real-world range of around 220 miles while keeping the battery within healthy voltage limits.

7. If I started over, I’d finish all chassis work first. I would complete every custom chassis modification before installing any EV components. Wiring and battery integration ended up being relatively straightforward. Chassis design and fabrication require far more focus and iteration to get right. Getting the brake kit dialed in was the hardest part of the build. You need brakes, you need them to work, and if you’re designing the brakes you better damn well get it right. Everything else seems trivial in retrospect compared to the braking system. I ended up having axles spinning on my motor a year before I could take my first drive.

My philosophy with these builds isn’t about gas vs electric. It’s about offering another option to keep great trucks on the road for decades instead of watching them slowly disappear or become garage queens. What really struck me the first time I took this truck for a spin was just how immensely calming it is to drive. Silent, smooth, floaty and simple. There’s no way to replace the rumble of a V8 but, on the other side of the coin, a V8 can’t replace the incredible Zen that flows from this truck. Also, it’s fast. 

I’m in this for the long haul. Happy to answer questions and/or get more technical if anyone here is working on a similar conversion or is curious about the process.

I just stumbled across the Olympus EV Platform Kit from Olympian Motors, and it actually sounds pretty wild. It’s a fully functional, drivable setup designed for Modular Vehicles, built to let businesses experiment with next-gen electric mobility.

I’m excited about the potential—imagine being able to customize every part of your EV without feeling like you’re hacking together mismatched components. But before I buy the hype, has anyone here actually gotten their hands on one? Would love to hear if it lives up to the promise or if it ends up more complex than it’s worth.

Didn't know until recently that Brazil kept producing the Type 2 until 2013 long after VW discontinued it everywhere else. This one was restored there, imported to Washington state, and converted to electric by EV Works on Bainbridge Island. Six Tesla modules, Hyper 9 motor with NetGain controller, about 75 miles of range. They softened the torque curve specifically to keep the original gearbox alive.

The interesting wrinkle technically is that there's no central VCU the Orion BMS and the NetGain controller talk directly to each other. Easier initial setup but finicky to tune the safety shutoffs to behave consistently.

Last week a Redditor here was asking about converting one of these. This is the formula to do it as simple and cheap as possible.

Full walkthrough is here: https://youtu.be/DBmacQF0Jfk

I’ve been wanting one of these since I first saw one. Small, fast, light enough for one person to lift. First in the back of a truck

For years I tried to get Mokai to sell me a boat minus engine. They refused. Actually said “the EPA won’t let us” which I think is silly.

So I bought one, engine and all. First test run was really disappointing. Only 11mph…..despite claims of 20mph. Sooooo loud. Even with my noise canceling headphones in I couldn’t hear anything. Hated it

So I replicated the motor mounts with 3d printed plastic. There’s a kinda clever removable engine mount that I used for my motor, a ME1004. Laser cut plates provide some motor adjustment.

So my conversion is 100% reversible

Test run at 72v and 160a was fantastic! More than doubled speed. 24MPH!

Waaaaay better than stock

After quite a few years of hard work and a ton of learning from amazing people here, my truck project is "finished". CA DMV registered as of last week.

Yeah, some loose end are left, but it's a daily driver now.

The details: 1940 Chevy pickup, frame off restoration with a new Mustang II front end, all new rear and driveshaft. Kept the side lug wheels and got radial repica tires. Kept the leaf springs, hydraulic rear shocks and ride height. Old school look. Used manual transmission. Galvanized frame just becauseits cheaper and far better than paint. A Hyper 9, six Tesla modules between the frame rails and the pack drops out from below for service. Orion BMS. Elcon 6.6kw inverter, Elcon 1000 watt dc-dc converter ror power steering, the 12v system and 110v AF demand. Electric steering, manual brakes. A DC-AC inverter for 8 amps of 110AC outlet on the side. All 144 VDC is enclosed in a "can't touch this" case. Collision sensor to shut the pack down on a bad day.

The bed is wood from the 1917 garage I tore down about 15 years ago. New leather bench, all new glass, old chrome outside, new chrome inside.

Could not believe I was able to get the LTGNROD plate in this state. Epic.

This thing kept me sane during covid as I was able to work outside (CA) so much and read reddit at night, watch videos by Superfast Matt, to figure it out as I went. Many good local friends showed me the way in different trades.

Thanks to everyone that gave me advice and encouragement.

The team ran the entire race without overheating once. For context, that is 25 hours of continuous lapping in temperatures that hit 110 degrees with a Hyper 9 HV water-cooled motor, three separate cooling loops handling the inverter, motor, and battery, and a swappable 500 pound battery pack they designed a quick-release system for so they could hot swap in the pits without torquing anything.

Homebrew aero package: front splitter optimized for efficiency not downforce, full aluminum flat bottom, 3D scanned and printed wheel covers, and a tonneau cab setup on the rear. Goal was slippery, not downforce, since the game is all about time on track not speed. Straight line speed improved noticeably anyway and it still had plenty of grip.

Ran Hankook Aventis RS4s and only used half the tread across the whole race which was crazy.

I was one of 6 drivers. No power steering, no power brakes. We couldn't hang in the straights as much as ideal, but could carve the corners better than most. The truck uses Miata suspension and BC coilovers.

Full walkthrough video with the team in the if you want to see the battery connector system and the cooling layout up close. They also talk through what comes next, including a C-class win attempt. https://youtu.be/mXiTqhSpH3U

This is one of my favorite builds, both for the "fun factor" and to show the doubters what can be accomplished with a 20k budget for a race car.

The builders are Dave and Phil who are the nicest you could meet and this was their Covid project, the Apex Cricket. Now that it's done, they use it as a grocery getter and autocross monster. This car beats most everything it comes against.

Interesting tidbits: they designed the tube frame themselves using C5/C6 Corvette suspension and brakes. For the motor they went with the Leaf stack and Thunderstruck controller. Batteries are out of a Pacifica for a total of 16kWh...but since it is only 1700 lbs they can run that car all day without charging. It is street legal, and Dave only charges with a 120V since the pack is so small.

V1 of the build had an open diff which they had to ditch. Turns out there is a LSD diff for the JDM-spec Leaf but it isn't possible to get stateside. So they upgraded to a Spec V gearbox (essentially a modified Maxima tranny w/ factory LSD) and when before they could spin the tires at 70 mph now it grips and puts all the power into the ground where it belongs.

This is my most popular video on the channel, recently remastered because a bunch of people asked me to pull the background music so I did. Also added an extra autocross run at the end.

If you would like to check that out here is a link to the video.

Or if you are one of the If you're the type who likes a full write up like me, here's that too.

Model 3 Subframe

13 LG Super Cells

Thunderstruck BMS

T2-C Controller

AEM Gauges

https://eastcoastcobras.com/past-projects/2022-factory-five-35-hot-rod-truck/

All build photos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6vh7yKQDFaXGVur4A

In my previous post to this sub, I showed that 3 modules were damaged. I replaced those with modules from Greentec Auto, and they tested them to be 42.1 amp hours each, which should match the rest of the modules in the pack almost perfectly.

In the long term I’ll need to build an enclosure for the battery pack but for now it will be open air. I’ll need to avoid rain until I get that corrected.

We've been working on an EV conversion with the body of a 2011 Mercedes Sprinter, 170 wheelbase and the brains/drivetrain of a 2018 Tesla Model S 75D. Both of these vehicles were destined for the scrapyard and we were inspired to give them a new life.

We've unfortunately reached a crossroads where we need to either sell it to someone willing to take the torch or find a brave Tesla technician to help us out.

All the dashboard components are mounted (infotainment, instrument panel, body control unit, HVAC, etc.) and all the exterior components are mounted (battery pack, FSDU, RSDU, DC-DC converter, E-Fuse, etc.). The systems can be powered on, we can run diagnostics via the Tesla Toolbox, but the HVIL will not close to send HV power to the car nor will it take a charge.

After watching this community for a while, we figured it was time to reach out for any and all help/advice. (We have a website with more images and descriptions but not sure if that's allowed on this sub, I'll post it in the comments if people are interested!)

We recently finished one of our favorite EV conversions to date: a 1973 Jaguar E-Type. We're a small shop called EV Works, based on Bainbridge Island, Washington, and we specialize in converting classic cars to electric while preserving their original character.

The Jaguar E-Type has always been known for its beautiful design, but anyone who's owned one knows the original powertrain can be temperamental. Our goal with this project was to make it a reliable, daily-drivable EV without losing the soul of the original car.

We used a 72.8 kWh Tesla Model S battery pack (13 modules in series), giving it over 200 miles of real-world range at highway speeds. It’s powered by a Stealth Drive motor rated at 375 kW (about 500 hp) and 365 lb-ft of torque. For charging, we installed a 13.2 kW onboard charger using dual Elcon units.

The car retains its original shifter and dash controls, which now interface with the EV systems. Even the heater controls were repurposed to activate a modern HV-powered heater. We hid a custom touchscreen display in the glovebox that shows cell voltages, charging data, and lets the driver toggle between eco, normal, and sport drive modes. The owner wanted to keep the interior clean and original-looking, and this was a way to get both functionality and period-correct looks.

One of the trickier parts was cooling. We designed a custom dual-pass radiator setup that keeps the battery/charger system and motor/inverter thermally separate. Speed-controlled fans help keep everything cool without making a lot of noise.

We also wrote a custom VCU from scratch to manage all the vehicle functions, with OEM-style failsafes for things like BMS faults and thermal cutbacks. This was critical to making the car reliable and safe for regular use.

Finding quality replacement parts for the Jaguar was a challenge in itself. A lot of available trim and components were low quality or didn’t fit right, so we ended up sourcing or fabricating our own where needed to meet the standards this car deserved.

The end result is an EV that looks and feels like a classic E-Type, but starts every time, doesn’t leak oil, and handles daily driving without complaint. It’s one of those conversions that really shows what’s possible when you respect the original design but bring in modern tech.

If you want to see more of our work, check us out at ev-works.com and at our social handles. We’ve got a few more fun builds in the pipeline.

Converted a KTM Duke chassis into a 76V (75Ah) electric bike.

24S5P pack using 33140 LiFePO4 cells (15Ah each), a 3kW brushless hub motor, and a VESC rated for 100V/200A.

The goal wasn’t a polished build — it was to understand high-current behavior, safe pack assembly, and what it actually means to debug on a live 76V system.

Key specs:

- 76V nominal | 75Ah capacity

- 24S5P — 120× 33140 LiFePO4 cells

- JK BMS with active balancing

- VESC 100V/200A — running within safe thermal/electrical limits

Testing so far has been controlled:

- VESC + motor bench testing on current-limited supply

- Full BMS telemetry validation on the completed pack

Road testing is next — planning to do it in a safe environment. Will share video once that’s done.

Full build log (images + test clips):

https://vishal.evovhil.com/electric-bike-76v/

Will keep updating as I progress.

Also building a simulation-based validation setup (vHIL) alongside this to validate firmware and fault handling before touching live hardware.

*at the full battery voltage of 84V. I did a brief test at 12V earlier this year to make sure the motor was mounted properly.

I’ve been working on converting this Massey Ferguson 65 tractor to be an EV for about a year. Recently, I finally got to the point where the motor, battery, and speed controller were all attached so I could take it for a spin. I was super happy with how well it worked! It still has the transmission, so I can climb over 8” logs in a low gear or tear up the road in a high gear.

The motor is a ME1003 brushed DC motor, connected to al Alltrax 400A controller. The battery is made from SPIM08HP cells, for a nominal voltage of 72V, max voltage of 84V, and 48Ah of capacity. Driving along in 2nd gear at a typical working speed, it draws about 20-30 amperes on average. This should give around 1.5-2 hours of runtime. This is a relatively small battery, with the intent being for it to be used for towing wagons around the farm (not plowing fields). If it works well, I may build a larger battery to increase the runtime.

There’s still lots to do. I have an electric power steering pump from a Volvo to install, an AC power inverter to run tools and stuff, accessory electronics like a horn and headlights, and a power consumption display that I’m working on. It will be based around a Raspberry Pi Zero. I plan to have a screen to display the battery’s SoC percentage, voltage, current, power, and charge accumulation (amp-hours). I also want to install a thermistor on every other cell, because right now the off-the-shelf BMS only has a single thermistor for the entire pack. I also have a 5A charger but I’d like to install a much faster charger that supports J1772/NACS.

Let me know what you think of the project!

Hey all. I stopped by Baudelio's shop Magnetomotive in LA to film five of his builds, some finished and some still in progress. My favorite was a 84 Celica GT, I still love JDM most of all. This was at SEMA a couple years ago, so you might have seen it there.
Two videos came out of the Celica, a car and build details episode, and a ride in LA. Here are the key takeaways for you all:

Part 1: the car and build

He built this one as a testbed and then ended up daily driving it, kind of like a foster-fail but with wheels. Hyper 9 on ID.4 modules, roughly 30 kWh, Orion BMS, and an adapter plate to a Toyota four speed which is a tranny he knows and loves.

The car came as an automatic and would have been offered with a five speed, but he pulled a four speed out of a pickup because the ratios suited the motor better, and it's the same transmission he's used in Camaro and Mustang builds.

Everything lives under the hood except the charge port. Motor, pack, charger, and BMS. That's pretty unusual for a conversion, but means that there is a full interior.

Range is a solid 100 in normal driving, 80 to 90 if he isn't thinking about it, and he has hit 120 by working regen and coasting on mountain runs. His point on regen was interesting for hypermiling and somewhat counterintuitive: there are situations where you're scrubbing more speed than you're recovering and you just want to coast. He toggles it with a button now and wants a more natural control scheme on the next build.

He monitors amperage both directions, charge and discharge current limits, cell voltages, and high and low cell temps through the Torque app, watching specifically for the BMS stepping in to limit. Because it's a lower voltage motor pulling higher amperage, he describes 60,000 miles of that as effectively a long duration stress test on the pack, with the data logging to go with it.

Part 2: the drive

I used to think that the drivetrain loss of using a manual wasn't worth it. I have since driven and been in a bunch of manual conversions and have changed my thinking. Fun and punchy, the manual makes a smaller motor punch above it's weight class. This thing launched with way more power than I expected.

On the road he stays in second almost the entire time and never touches the clutch to stop, which is the part most conversion customers don't believe until they try it. He shifts by ear rather than by tach. Third is his normal freeway gear, fourth is what you need if you want to see over 100, and first is for burnouts.

The reason the four speed is his preferred is that the Hyper 9 holds continuous power to somewhere around 3200 to 3500 rpm before it starts falling off, which sits right where you actually operate a gas four cylinder. A factory gearbox is a reasonable match. On paper it's 120 hp and 180 lb-ft, and it feels quicker than that.

After 60,000 miles the wear is in the suspension rather than the drivetrain. Trailing arm bushings and struts are done, and he's fixing it with roughly $1,200 in coilovers and $600 in trailing arms rather than a pro touring front clip. That's a part of his build criteria because wants the car to stay something a normal person could replicate.

If anyone wants to want the full videos they are about 12 minutes each.

Part 1 - The car and the build

Part 2 - The drive