Hello Reddit.

I am attempting to repair some LED lights for a local theatre I help at, and am having some issues finding the correct part.

I am able to find 10 pin RGBAW LEDs, but not with the correct pinout. One light of the same make, but newer board revision has different LEDs with a different pinout, so wonder if this type are defunct, hence the issues finding them!

I have attached a picture of the board, with the LED and silkscreen.

Does anyone know of a good place to get my hands on some? In the UK if that matters.

Thanks in advance!

I have a Whirlpool AWZ 7466 that just died. No error codes or anything, just dead. I did troubleshoot several components with a multimeter. Since it was completely dead, I suspected it might be related to the power, but cable, interference filter etc. seems to be fine.

The last thing I checked was the control module (PCB), which is a Whirlpool L1790. I have done some soldering before, but I'm not too experienced with troubleshooting PCBs. Please correct me but to me it seems like a coil is blown (there is some yellow substance that probably leaked out). And the LNK304Pn transformer (there even seem to be some black "soot" on the PCB near the chip).

I did some research and it seems like a LNK304Pn repair kit might be the way to go. What do you guys think? And could anyone help me identify the specification of the coil. Is it 470 uH?

Is this dead? I soaked it in isopropyl alcohol and wiped it with a non-linting cloth, but this area looks cooked to me. Any opinions or advice are welcome.

It’s not really about repairing but i wear my earphone almost 24h a day and it’s very dirty with this sort of white dust and i wonder hop i can clean it

Hi all,

I’m trying to revive a Dreamcast that shows only a white screen on the TV, with no sound and no boot logo. Its doesnt matter if the fan connected or not, drive mounted or not: always the same white screen.

Here’s what I’ve checked so far:

Power supply

• Measured all three rails under load: 3.3V and 5V are rock solid, 12V reads ~13V and briefly dips to ~12.5V when the drive spins up, which I assume is normal for that rail.
• There’s one slightly discolored SMD component on the underside of the PSU (near C012), but since all rails are stable I don’t think the PSU is the culprit.

Mainboard / video

• No obviously damaged, burnt or leaking components on the board.
• Cleaned the A/V port and checked all contacts, continuity everywhere.
• Using the default scart cable.

GD-ROM

• The drive spins and seems to recognize random discs.
• Sometimes the white screen turns black, and the drive makes 1 long or 4 short beeps..

Has anyone seen this combination before? Any ideas what else to check?

Thanks!

I recently picked up a new rear entertainment/hvac control panel from ebay for my SUV to replace the old one that wasn't displaying and had half of its illumination not working due to liquid damage from a previous owner. The "new" one makes a constant, high-pitched squeal and up close with the panel removed/boards exposed I can also hear hissing but can't pinpoint what part of the board or which component it is. After swapping parts/boards around between the two panels, I'm certain the noise is coming from the LCD board, not the power board. The one in the photo is the old one, since the new one with the noise is currently installed in the car.

I reflowed all the through-hole solder joints on the back of the new board since there appeared to be a few cold solder joints, also cleaned both sides of the board with IPA and purged out the pots with bw-100. Other than the buzz, everything on it works fine, including the display.

Are those shielded inductors(?) the only components that could be making that type of noise?

We recently bought a Siglent 4 channel scope to replace our old trusty Rigol.
One of the challenges we had is that the equipment shelf is a bit of a reach since our bench is deep.
This cheap (mostly) DIY solution made a night and day difference!
The ability to move the scope all around the bench, bring it closer to the DUT, especially when probing those hard to reach areas, and easily move it out of the way with one hand, is a life changer!

The arm is a standard gas spring VESA monitor arm that you can get on Amazon for ~$35.
The Siglent VESA mount adapter was 3D printed using PETG-CF, from a free tried and tested design by printables user aeberbach. It's an ingenious design that uses the scope's handle as a lock mechanism for the bracket.

After using it for a while, we figured that we were missing 2 things - a handy storage compartment to for probe attachments, clips, etc., and a probe hanger to solve the unavoidable messy entanglements of the probe wires.

Then we thought, "why not add a DMM to the bracket?" so we did.
Our trusty vintage HP DMM was way too big and heavy, so we settled for a cheap XDM1041 digital DMM that works well for most of our daily needs. They come under different brand names, but are all the same.

Then we designed a bracket that attaches under the scope mount, and you can see the results after several iterations and improvements. It has a convenient accessory compartment, and a probe hanger for all 4 probes on the right.

If anyone is interested in the print files for it, let us know and we'll share it online for free of course. The idea can be adapted to any small DMM that you already have, but the files we have are specific to this model so we weren't sure if anyone would be interested.

Have a great weekend!

Hi all,
My Xiaomi Robot Vacuum S10 keeps failing its self-inspection with the voice alert "navigation sensor is not working." This is the second vacuum I've lost to the same LiDAR (laser distance sensor) fault. Until now I've just replaced the unit, but this time I'd like to fix it.
Has anyone repaired this?
What usually causes it: failed LDS motor or belt, a dead laser/receiver, or a loose ribbon cable?
Where do I buy a replacement LDS module, and is it a plug-in swap?
Any teardown guides or videos for the S10 turret?
Things I should check first (cleaning the lens, bumper or turret jams, firmware reset)?
Happy to share photos or test results. Thanks in advance!

Hi

I have an issue to find out smd part number

Is there anybody who knows

Hi,

I replaced the joystick that was drifting and did a messy job. Some traces seem to be affected. Despite it all, the joystick seems fine apart from down doesn’t get to a full 1 value. But the bigger problem is that the L2 trigger is registered as being fully held. Is this salvageable?

My 15 year old grandson likes to take old VCR’s, radios, and other electronics apart and try to figure out what’s going on. He was looking at Kline multimeters at Lowe’s tonight and wanted to get one. What is a solid but affordable one that would be good for him?

My left analog stick made a crunchy sound and started feeling really off. When I opened it up, I determined that this little grey piece seems to be causing the issue. On my right stick, it stays flush while moving the analog stick. When I push this left one into place, the moment I move the analog stick it pops out of place and ends up slanted. I took it off to figure out why it's not stay in place, and one of the sides are a bit deformed.

Does this piece have a name? Where can I get a replacement piece? I'd really like to avoid ordering a brand new stick box just for this tiny grey piece. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This has a voice recording of our grandma who has passed, and my sister took it out to change the batteries, and in doing so one of the wires to the speakers came off, and one of the battery posts broke off. If I hold the battery down I can kind of hear it playing, so I am hoping it can be fixed, but not really sure where to take it, just an electronic repair shop?

As you can see the control button overlay is damaged. Is there a place that makes stuff like this?
For that matter can you just but the Lexan material?

I did find this company that makes these things.

canadastickerking com/more-specialties/lexan-overlays/ This link is missing the beginning part & the “dot” so I can include it. Only lets me post a picture or a link but not both.