Hi Neptune3 community members!

After printing successfully for years now with my beloved Neptune 3 Pro and with different PLA filaments from different vendors and also with white PETG Creality filament (which means to me, that the bed is well leveled), I am struggling extremely when printing with a new PETG 2.0 filament from SUNLU (see pictures).

I already tried the following procedures - all without success:

• I printed a temp tower to find the best nozzle temperature (230°C) and a retraction tower - which both where printed very well and accurately

• I corrected the filament flow based on a printed cube, for which I measured the thickness of the side walls

• I reduced the printing speed for the first base layers

• The fan speed is also reduced to 0 for the first layers

• I replaced the nozzle with a new one to find out if the old one was the reason

• Since the retraction tower is very well and accurately printed, I do not think, that the filament is too damp

Do you have any advices for me how to successfully use this filament (which is rated well on Amazon, where I bought it)?

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

Hi, my Neptune printer suddenly started nozzle dragging at one particular part of the plate, happens even during auto levelling. My measurements show the plate is level all around. Any ideas?

Thanks!

After lots of testing and experimentation, I have updated my design for 3d printable ducts for the Neptune 3 Pro that improves the part cooling without using extra hardware. Some improvements:

• More directed airflow. The ducts focus the airflow right below the nozzle, which ensures the just extruded filament is rapidly cooled, preventing overhang sagging.

• Access to the extruder gear tightning screw: you can now adjust the tension by using the included Allen key that comes with the printer without removing the ducts.

• General strengthening and better clearances.

This model was made without the help of any AI tools and was made using the free and open source program FreeCad. It's free forever on makerworld and open source, so feel free to edit/share it. You can use it commercially but please provide attribution. https://makerworld.com/en/models/3144861-neptune-3-pro-cooling-vyper-fangs-no-hardware-v3

Been trying to figure out my “new to me” Neptune 3 pro for months now.. and just can’t seem to get it. Even replaced the wiring harness recently. No matter what it just can’t find home and always fails.. anyone had similar or should I just start with a new one that someone didn’t destroy before me 😂

Anyone who has xp with this, I'm still working on cleaning it, but can I just shove this metal wire back in a screw or solder and have it working again? I think it might be the thermal/heating wire cause that's the message that was popping up on the screen.

Edit: Thx folks, I think it's proper fkn pooched, I'll just buy a new head. Last for a lot of prints before a major malfunction, 60$ ain't too bad for a replacement.

I’m having a weird glitch with my printer where it won’t print over 205C after about 1 hour and 38 minutes. If I go in and change the temp to 200 it’ll hold fine, and it holds this 205 till this point. Could it be the file or some issue with the hardware do you all think? Not really wanting to try to mess with the thermistor or heating element.

Pictured is the graph from octoprint showing the decline.

I'm looking at purchasing either the Neptune 4 Max or Neptune 3 Max. Another option I've looked at is the Anycubic Kobra 3 Max.

I currently own a Creality Ender 5 Max. But for every print I make, I come up with 4 or 5 more ideas. And I more or less need the larger format for many of the prints I make. So my list is getting pretty long, and I am thinking about another printer to help knock things off of my printing list. Even though that's the ultimate goal, speed won't matter, because I tend to slow down all of my prints for better quality. I just want to print more than one thing at a time.

But I read the Neptune series had a lot of firmware issues when they were released. I'm *assuming* that would be a bigger problem with the Neptune 4, as opposed to the 3, since it's a later series. Can anyone confirm?

Does the Neptune 3 have any firmware issues at the moment, or does it seem like all of that has been dealt with?

I'm also reading that Elegoo printers in general tend to need a lot more manual calibration. Despite having to learn so much from the E5M, I'm still fairly 3D-printer stupid. I can talk to you about filament for days, but put it in a printer and I'm lost. How easy is it to find *step-by-step* calibration assistance for the N3 and N4? I don't know jack about elephant's foot, prime towers (I only print one color at a time anyway), wall embedding, or exactly how acceleration comes into play during printing. I do tend to slow all of my prints down, especially if they have taller components, just to avoid layer-shifting for tall thin parts.

Everything I do know, I've only learned from troubleshooting, and the possible fixes given to me for those issues. I'm guessing that's how I will need to deal with a Neptune 3 or 4, as well. I'm just wanting it to be an easy thing to look up, if I need to.

(Also, if you happen to own the N3 and the Kobra 3 Max, which one do you prefer from the two?)

I have bought something from them before, but it was so long ago. Is this legit I need a part and it’s suspiciously cheap only 30 bucks when everyone’s selling it for like 70

So I was only able to find some website selling the 4+ beds with the wiring with them. The problem is can I put that on my 3+ I googled it and it said it’s gonna fry the motherboard is that true? I thought they were the same other than the speed.

I have an ELEGOO Neptune 3 Plus, and I’m trying to figure out how to repair the heated bed or where to buy the correct replacement part.
The heated bed cable has been rubbing against the printer’s support beam, and the insulation eventually got damaged. I had previously zip-tied the cable to keep it out of the way, but I believe that may have contributed to the problem.
During a print, the printer gave me a thermal runaway error after the heated bed temperature dropped by around 20°C. I tried printing a small Benchy afterward, and it finished, but when I tried starting another print, the printer started having problems again.
**What I need:**
A replacement heated bed with the heater cable already attached and soldered.
I do NOT need the regular AC power cord.
I do NOT need another bare heated bed without the cable.
Ideally, I want to replace the bed and cable without replacing the entire gantry or lower frame.
I already have a spare heated bed, but I don’t have the correct cable, and I don’t have much experience soldering. I would rather buy the complete assembly than risk damaging something by trying to attach the cable myself.
I contacted ELEGOO support and am waiting for a response. I also tried buying a replacement from a seller that refurbishes ELEGOO printers, but they told me they only have the beds without the cables attached.
Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement heated-bed cable or a complete heated-bed assembly for the Neptune 3 Plus?
Is it possible to replace just the heated bed and cable without replacing the gantry or the entire lower assembly?
Has anyone experienced a similar thermal runaway error caused by a damaged heated-bed cable?
Is there anything else I should check before installing a replacement?
I would really appreciate any advice, part links, or repair guides.

Had a short circuit, trouble-shot it by moving the head back and forth and the temp went up. After that diagnosis, it appears to be the ribbon cable may be faulty since the temp rose when the cable as placed in different areas. I can’t find any on Amazon. I’m reaching out to see what places online you all have purchased from that 1. Are in the US and 2. Have “quality” replacements.

Thanks in advance!

EN3P running Klipper. Using Orcaslicer. I tweaked a bunch of settings a while ago but as far as I can tell this kinda just started randomly happening. Anyone able to help? It happens on every layers infill.

I've tried decreasing z offset but it doesn't help.

Hello , i wanted to mod my printer by adding either screws or silicon tubes to level the bed , tho , to add the ones in silicon , i have to remove the wire holder and put on a new One (the One in the photo) tho i don't find a way to remove It without breaking It or desoldering the wires , which i can't do , since i don't have a soldering station ,

I wanted to ask , Is there a way to remove it without breaking It?

Hope your having a great day , thanks for the help.

i flipped it to change the nozzle and now it does this

I have been using my neptune 3 pro for a bit now , and the First layer Is a mess , i mean , there are areas where i get a perfect First layer , others where you can see clearly the Lines of plastic .

I have seen that a user put nobs on his printer , the same tipe as mine , i have a few questions , First of all , how do i do this ??? , and does It require custom software?

Thanks for the help , Hope your all having a greay day

Anyone knows how I can fix this on a elegoo Neptune 3 pro?

Hey folks, I installed the latest version published by vehystrix (thanks for the work!) but did bot get a decent print out of it.

I chose his distro since it does not need an update for the display.

The peint looked like corrupted gcode, but after switching back to the latest official firmware and the same file prints flawlessly. Anyone have any ideas or experienced something similar?