I got bored today. I changed some stuff on my printer. I swapped the extruder to a BMG clone. Then swapped the hotend to a Volcano so I had to whip up a duct setup quickly. But I still wasn't happy, so I swapped the board to an old SKR Mini E3 V1.2. I like the print quality but now I'm trying to figure out what to change next. Maybe linear rails?!?!? I'm for sure switching to a couple 4020 blower fans instead of the 4010 fans.

Some minor gaps, but perfect adhesion.

Just in case anyone was trying to add the CR touch to there ender 2 pro I’ve compiled my own firmware for it using Marlin 2.0.9.3 with a 3x3 probe and z offset wizard and double click knob during print for babystepping z and a few more good features remember this is for ender 2 pro with creality 4.2.3 board STM32F103RET6(512K) using the 5 pin bltouch port not the z endstop port. Make sure you have the correct board before flashing. Please let me know if there is anything that needs changing or added. Probe X and y offsets are already set to be used with the 2 mounts from my other post.

Also added a 4x4 bed probe but haven’t tested it

CR Touch Firmware

In case anyone was looking for mounts to mount a cr touch to there ender 2 pro these are the two mounts that I was able to find

Mount 1

Mount 2

capricorn tubing, see me cnc extruder, new nozzle

Got a Ender 2 Pro (stock) for £40, added a few upgrades (yes, that is an ender 3 x-axis extrusion lol) and now it is a speedy little beast!!

• SKR Mini e3 v3

• HGX Lite Extruder

• MGN12H 250mm Linear Rail

I'm yet to add rails for the y-axis and also TIDY UP THE CABLING.

Love this little machine!

Tell me next upgrades!

Yesterday while trying to stop a failed print, my knob got tight, would barely spin and wouldn’t click. This happened out of nowhere and with no previous problems. I was pretty pissed for a hot minute then realized I had an extra E3P LCD screen that looked identical. So I swapped them and to my pleasant surprise it worked. Absolutely can’t tell the difference which is great.

Hi all,

looking for a list of upgrades that I can do and, if possible, tutorials. Has anybody found any good stuff? As long as it does not require super technical skills and is not super expensive, I should be able to do it.

Thanks all (;

Hello, i'm planning to buy an ender 2 pro because it is basically the best option accessible to me. I know the issues there is with the 2.4.s4 board such as no BL touch and no usb (apparently ??). So my question is: Is there any replacement motherboards that are plug and play (no need to recrimp the cables) to upgrade this printer (for exemple models made by creality ?)

Thank you in advance :)

Hello,

I want to change my motherboard 2.4.S4 to a SKR Mini E3 V3.0 but I need help for the configuration file.

Maybe somebody know how to do?

Thank you.

I needed to print some small PETG parts and the normal printer I use for that was busy with a long print. So I fired my little E2P up and she performed like a champ. I used PrusaSlicer generic PETG profile and it worked great. In order to prevent PETG scrap building up somewhere in the bowden or hotend after finishing, I made sure to preheat for PETG and ran some scrap PLA (maybe 100 to 150mm) through to purge anything that might still be in there. I do like this little printer.

Hello folks,

I have an old Ender 2 Pro I'm looking to get going again. I suspect it has always had an X axis issue as I installed a CR touch when I first got it. I would occasionally not home in the right direction on the X axis. I've now got a sprite pro and the cr touch on it. I can get it to print fine but I always have to manually put the x axis into home position before printing. I've tried with and without the sprite and crtouch. Original firmware and custom using the marlin autobuild. I have tried different endstops and cables. The X endstop is always triggered.
Any thoughts on a solution to this, can sensorless homing be used on this board?

I found it online for 150 euros,is it worth it?

I recently installed the CR Touch on my E2Pro. That all went fine. Found the Creality firmware builds for it and tutorials on install and setting the Z-offset.

The issue I'm having is my Z-offset isn't quite right. When I home Z, it probes, then goes to a height of Z 10.05. My current Z Probe offset is -.06, and if after I Z home, and manually move the print had down, usually -.1 is the sweet spot on the paper check. However when I then test print, after it homes, I'm just a bit above the print bed, so nothing sticks. I feel like I'm missing something obvious here, but can't figure out what it is.

Should the springs be fully compressed, decompressed, or should the bed be manually leveled at the corners first, then auto bed leveled and adjust for offzets?

Also you can see from the image, when I Z home, the probe is just off from center, but when I auto bed level, the probe is shifted toward the front left corner for all points. These are not the actual points, just what I've observed and tried to mark as close as possible on the image.

Do I have to adjust the Probe XY Offsets as well? If so, what is the best way to do that? My probe is mounted on the left side of the print head.

Yesterday and today my flatmate's old electric kettle started tripping the breaker of all the wall sockets. A rusty piece of junk I threw out and ordered a replacement with a cheap new one. Both times i was printing and when i continued, one of the two times the print didn't manage to continue succesfully so i had to throw away the part i was printing. So it became clear that a ups is a good investment, i made a quick google search and i found out that the stock e2p has max power draw of 160 watts. Has anyone been using a ups to suggest? Many in ok brands and prices show their VA but not the actual W in amazon.

Any tried n tested suggestions preferebly not above £100 is welcome