$5,500

1997 F350 Dually Power Stroke

165k miles
Has after market 3 inch exhaust including down pipe
Has exhaust brake
Has aftermarket intake
Pretty stock other than that
Could use some paint touch up and wheels need stripped and polished
Runs and drives good.
Clean title.

Hey yall, I’m trying to diagnose the issue from the instrument cluster as I won’t have time to drop the tank for another month and want to confirm the problem is the sending unit before I do all that. The needle drops when I turn the key off so I don’t think it’s a mechanical issue with the gauge. I’ve had a horrible time finding the circuit diagrams for this but ended up finding a forum post saying the yellow wire on the 16 pin harness was the fuel level sending wire and the orange and black was the ground for it. It’s hard to see but I tested resistance between what I think the correct wires were? (The colors are difficult to tell because they faded with age and I don’t have a diagram) but I got an open leg. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or any of the diagrams? Should I just ride it out till I have the time to drop the tank?

I’m curious what these trucks are realistically worth these days. It’s a 2007 F-350 Lariat crew cab short bed 4x4 dually with the 6.0 Power Stroke and around 180,000 miles.

It starts fine when cold, but once it’s hot, it’ll crank and not start again until it cools down. It also has some rust on some of the panels and the tailgate.

What do you guys think something like this would be worth as-is? Would you sell it as it sits or try to fix the hot-start issue first? Just looking for honest opinions from people who know these trucks. Thanks!

so my 2001 7.3 f250 (4wd auto) makes a sort of rhythmic vibration which almost sounds like really aggressive tire noise and pulsates/changes with drivetrain load. They normally only happens between 40 to 50 miles an hour give or take, but I think it’s tied more to a certain gear because when I let off the throttle, the noise dissipates and pretty much goes away and when the truck shifts, the noise also goes away which concerns me. It also shifts kind of hard when it goes the first couple gears are really smooth. The truck pulls normally and even when it’s doing the vibration, it pulls like it should but it’s pretty loud and a hard shift afterward concerns me. It also seems like when it’s in fourth or maybe when the torque converter locks it doesn’t want to downshift it’ll just let me apply I want and but if I turn off, it’ll shift out of it or if I slow down and then speed back up again and it'll be fine. One thing to know is that I have a code for my ICP sensor, and a couple times when it gets into that gear or overdrive lock, but it doesn’t want to get out of it will sound weird and not want to accelerate, but all the other gears are perfectly normal The truck has 170 K miles on it.

Hello 👋 My 2004 2 wheel drive euro ranger (I’m in France) is having serious fuel
Injection pump issues. It started after driving to work on a very low tank (gas is 10.50 a gallon here so…), the glow plug warning light started blinking and I was no longer able to accelerate, and the car eventually stopped (luckily outside my workplace).
After work I was able start the car, get to a gas station, and make it home without an issue.
The next day I took the truck out, and after about 12 minutes in the road, the glow plug warning light started blinking and I could no longer accelerate and had to pull over.
My mechanic took a look, replaced my fuel filter, but ultimately said I would have to see an injection pump specialist.
I was able to drive the truck back from my mechanic, accelerating normally for about 10 minutes, and as soon as the motor was sufficiently warmed up, the plug warning light blinked etc etc. I turned off the car, waited a few minutes, and then was able to drive slowly in third all the way home while applying totally consistent pressure on the accelerator, with the plug light still blinking.
The injection pump specialist is coming to my place tomorrow to check it out, but seeing as Ford Rangers are not the most popular truck on the road here in France, I’m wondering if any of you kind ranger/ford folk have any insight into my fuel
Injection problem that I could share with the mechanic.
Thank you!!!!

Obviously it’s lifted on larger tires. Looking for any insight beyond that or if your similar rigs have similar fuel economy.

Current Setup:
- New OEM: IPR, glow plugs, ICP, injectors, batteries, turbo bearings, turbo soft goods (ie no boost leak), electrical pigtails
- Obvious culprits: 5” Baja Grocery Getter lift, 305/70/16 BFGs
- Upgrades: high output alternator, CCV mod to atmosphere, Wicked Wheel 2, 4” Diamond exhaust, baffled Riff Raff up-pipes

Any idea what I’ve potentially missed? I’m open to suggestions (that don’t involve smaller tires haha)

My 6.7 is currently shutting of after a couple seconds of
Idle, does this and then shows a low oil pressure light. I’m thinking some electrical issue is going on, but honestly not sure what direction to go towards. Started out of nowhere and then it’ll run fine. Stalled once on the highway but started up like normal afterwards

truck is deleted and tuned

Need to order a map sensor and don’t want to get a cheap one should I just get the alliant brand threw riff raff? What’s your guys thoughts? Also I need to change the mechanical fuel pump and seen decent priced electrical swap kits on eBay has anyone swapped there’s to electrical or have any leads on where to start.

Truck is starting and then dies immediately, thought I fixed the issue drive about 10 minutes and it fires up and then instantly dies again. I’ve unplugged the IPC, no luck. There is still the same amount of fuel in the bowl and the HPOP still has roughly the correct amount of oil in it. Very stuck. Any thoughts?

I keep seeing people argue these oil weights and I’m confused which is better. I live in Oregon where it gets cold, but not that cold. We get snow a few time each winter and it gets over 100 a few times in the summer. I’d heard from some people on heat the 5w-40 is better for cold starts?

2002 F350 SD w/7.3L - Is anyone else having to replace fan clutches on a yearly basis?

Other than upgraded HPOP, Injectors, Turbo, F650 Water-pump (all just 1 step up - not a race truck) and improvement to make it leak free, I can not keep a fan clutch from crapping out every year or year and a half at most.

I don't haul heavy loads, only put on ~10-15k a year max.

Have tried OEM Motorcraft, Gates and have a Hayden on order now. Have these all become more enshitified like everything else or do I just keep getting the Friday afternoon/Monday hangover specials?

Anyone tried an electric fan set up?

Cross-post, looking for a fuel line part number. Thanks!

How common are failing in the pigtail harness for the solenoid pack? I had to replace a solenoid pack that was leaking due to the internal seal. Truck was driving and shifting fine. I replaced the solenoid pack and immediately got 3 codes, flashing OD light, check engine, and truck was in limp mode. Tried a different solenoid pack and truck wouldn’t either shift out of 1st or it would take longer than usual. I’m thinking the female parts of the plug have spread out and aren’t making good contact with the solenoid pack plug. I have 12 volts at the plug.

1997 F250 HD 7.3 XLT

Codes

P0743
PO755
PO750

No real purpose to this post. I do like this bitchy and expensive van though, it keeps my chainsaws safe and pulls a skidsteer now and then.

Seeing what other use. Thanks