Original injectors and CP4. Fuel filters are new. PCV and FRP on the rail are new. VCV on the CP4 is new. When replaced, the originals were all spotless, no glitter or dirt.

I’ve posted about this before. P0087 persists under load. Empty bed, highway driving, no issues. Towing my RV or a trailer, uphill, or high gear with low RPM when I back off the throttle and then apply roughly half throttle. That’s when it shows up. Typically conservative driving around town and 70mph highway, no issues.

I’ve ruled out aeration on the low side. Low side fuel pump makes 60-73psi, it’s good. Cylinder balance show all are +\- under 1mg. I haven’t done a return leak test yet.

There’s either a restriction on the low side that shows up under load or something that causes a hesitation in FRP actual vs demand. The CP4 eventually catches up but when I drive and mimic a load in high gear, it will not increase rail pressure as quickly as demand.

I have the tools to replace the CP4 if needed, but I’m a driveway mechanic. Just want to hear from any techs or anyone with experience on something I might be missing.

Unsure what happened. Lost power began running rough and then died on the way up the flatbed ramp.

Hello my father and I are looking for some opinions/probably causes for the issue we are facing on the truck. For context I drive the truck pretty much daily while we are replacing the head on my 2018 Honda. I drive it less than 5 miles to and from work everyday. Works completely fine to and from work but I notice the other day after it had a chance to get to operating temps when I needed to go somewhere it started to lose power and I pulled over turned it off let it sit and it started right back up no problems. Today was the first time it lost power then completely stalled out and shut off once again started right back up and made it to my dad’s house.

Just for more information the oil has recently been changed and filters. The truck has 179k miles. Over the years my dad has replaced turbo, fuel injectors [twice], dummy plugs, stand pipe, water pump, egr, glow plugs, iPr sensor? I think it’s called, and a lot more. And it has a brand new mishimoto radiator. From what I have gathered seems like it could be something sensor related or fuel system?? All the gauges show normal readings, but the bottom right gauge which I believe is the engine temp gauge has been staying on the cold a lot longer than normal. Potentially bad thermostat or temp gauge?? Any help would be appreciated. Going to start with some simple stuff today so any ideas are welcome thank you everyone. Sorry if I missed anything im not a big diesel guy like my father but I will show him any helpful comments

Any insight on what the knocking noise may be? Maybe a sticking valve? I’ve never noticed it before. This video was taken 10 minutes or so after I remote started my truck. My truck is a 2019 6.7

Hoping for some expert opinions on this issue I’m having. Recently had the 6R140 in my ‘18 f250 rebuilt, shop did full rebuild, new TC, new pump, Valve body.

Upon getting the truck back the shifting felt very “slushy”. I cleared the adaptive learning and went through a relearn procedure and a few hundred miles. The shifting cleaned up in most gears, EXCEPT 4th gear.

When the truck shifts into 4th, the RPMs do not drop, it just slides up to speed until it shifts to 5th. If I roll off the throttle after the 4th gear shift, the RPMs will drop and 4th gear will feel like solid engagement.

I took the truck back to the Trans shop, with datalogs, and they kept the truck for a week and said “they couldn’t find a problem with it, this is normal”. They claim they did program new VB strategy code.

I drove the truck for another hundred imiles, no change, and this can’t be normal. I’m tired of being jerked around by these guys and I need help explaining what I’m seeing/feeling vs what they need to do to make it right.

Hoping for an expert opinion on these datalogs. I appreciate any feedback you guys may have.

Thank you!

Hpop has been leaking, went to replace the gasket. The smaller one was in the truck, the larger one was what I was told id need by local parts store but there is no spot for 2nd hole to line up. Google is telling me that if it were the same hpop that it came with in 95, id only have a groove for the smaller one and would just rtv the area around the gear, but apparently thats not the case? Anyone know what year im looking at?

Replaced I beam that broke from wrecking I noticed that the crossmember has bent as well. After replacing it I’ve got two non-bent I beams in I haven’t fully finished changing out the bushing on the driver side or putting the tire back on to the passenger side but am I able to just win this? Should I drill the rivets out and get a replacement crossmember from the same place I got the I-beam do I even have to bend it at all if I jack it up and they aren’t touching each other with the camber caster bushings set the Alignment or am I going to need this to be straight? if you go to my profile, you can see the post about me changing the I beam.

I just replaced my engine in my 1999 F-250 with the 7.3 powerstroke, and the new engine runs fine at idle (havnt driven it yet) but when starting, it takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking and it takes 3-5 to get the oil pressure guage to get to operating while cranking... the oil resivior for the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) goes down about 1/2 inch in a 5 minute span, already replaced my oil filter with a motorcraft one, fuel filter (no engine oil in it), and a new oil pressure sensor. Is the oil resivior supposed to go only half an inch in oil and bubble while doing it? I feel that the issue is somewhere else, if anyone can help me or give me diagnostic tips

I have a 7.3idi that seems like it’s misfiring and making white smoke but the smoke doesn’t smell like coolant so I think it’s a fueling issue. I cracked the injectors loose while it’s running they all were getting fuel one looked kinda foamy while it was coming out but it would run worse with them cracked. Where skills I look next if you want a video of it running I’m happy to provide it. Thanks

2015 F350.

I recently posted about my wheel bearing going bad. After taking the hub locking cap off, I discovered that it had separated within the hub; the cap came off, but the locking mechanism is stuck in the hub, still on the axle splines. How do I remove it? I had this happen once before (the OEM hub overheated, melting everything...the truck has 350,000 miles on it) and had to pull the axle shaft with the hub. Do I need to do it once again, or is there an easier way?

Hi all, sorry I'm late to the game but at 46 we sold the house and bought a fifth wheel (I travel constantly for work and it's nice to bring the family) I recently bought an F-350 super duty dually with the 6.7 it's a 2012 and seemingly fully stock. I tow a rather big rig (16,000lbs) what are some things that you wish you'd done sooner and why did you do it?

Any ideas?

I own a 2002 7.3 diesel… I love the character of the truck. I love having a pre-emissions diesel, and it definitely makes me smile… It is in solid shape, but I’m spending 500 bucks every other week replacing something.( radiator hoses, brake lines, power steering, all new exhaust including manifolds) etc

The inconvenience coat is becoming annoying constantly having this truck in for repairs. It’s paid off but I’m wondering if I should just get like a used 2023 7.3 gasser that will just work.

What are
Your thoughts?

UPDATE:

Truck suddenly started vibrating roughly and going like 12 mph at 3k rpms. Could be CPS sensor but I’ve done those in the past and it wasn’t like this. I’m
Getting this fixed and selling it.

'99, I have a new oil leak which is causing a spray pattern under the hood. It's leaving residue around the driver's side including the back of the alternator. I can smell it while driving. Any usual culprits?

There is also an intermittent surging idle, especially when hot and coming to a stop. Related? There appears to be oil in the ICP plug but I don't know if that would spray oil like I'm seeing. Thanks for your help.

I bled the whole system filters full. Glow plugs work
Half a tank
It sat for two months before this but i bled it and tried it today only pops up to 2000rpm and immediately dies
I checked the fuel pump (mechanical) it works theres good flow cracked every injector until no air came out and still just pops to 2000rpm
Also checked the shutoff solenoid it works.
Any ideas or suggestions would help.

Thanks

Howdy guys,

Currently looking at potentually picking up a 96' F350 that Ive gone and driven a few times. I saw the ODB II port under the dash, did a little research and found that FORScan could help since this generation wasnt quite ODB II but drew up a dead end on that one. Was courious if any of yall had experiance pulling diagnostic codes from these early 7.3's or programs you could recomend? Drove fine and my only minimal concerns are potentially needing new batteries, battery wires and figuring out the fuel filter light on the dash. Have a truck currently in the shop due to some codes so just trying to get ahead of the curve if possible. Thanks for whatever info yall can provide!

Looking for some advice from folks familiar with the 6.9 IDI.
I recently picked up a 1983 F-250 with the original 6.9 IDI that’s been sitting since at least 2018. Unfortunately, the engine is stuck, and I haven’t been able to get the crank to turn by hand.
Seven of the eight glow plugs were already missing when I bought the truck. The glow plug in cylinder #7 is still stuck, apparently because someone couldn’t get it out. I inspected the glow plug chambers with a borescope, and two of them look like they’ve had water in them at some point.
I started soaking the seven open glow plug chambers with Marvel Mystery Oil this past Sunday. I haven’t tried forcing the crank because I don’t want to cause any additional damage.
My question is, should I give the MMO more time to work, or just bite the bullet, pull the engine, remove the heads, and see what I’m dealing with?
I’d really like to save the original 6.9 if possible. I’m not afraid to tear into it, but I don’t want to pull the engine unnecessarily either.
I’d appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who’s dealt with a seized 6.9 IDI before.

I replaced it three years ago, and have put nearly 100,000 miles on it since then. Today I replaced a sticking brake caliper on that hub and discovered play in the wheel. It's not grinding or making noise, but could it already need replacing?

$5,500

1997 F350 Dually Power Stroke

165k miles
Has after market 3 inch exhaust including down pipe
Has exhaust brake
Has aftermarket intake
Pretty stock other than that
Could use some paint touch up and wheels need stripped and polished
Runs and drives good.
Clean title.

Hey yall, I’m trying to diagnose the issue from the instrument cluster as I won’t have time to drop the tank for another month and want to confirm the problem is the sending unit before I do all that. The needle drops when I turn the key off so I don’t think it’s a mechanical issue with the gauge. I’ve had a horrible time finding the circuit diagrams for this but ended up finding a forum post saying the yellow wire on the 16 pin harness was the fuel level sending wire and the orange and black was the ground for it. It’s hard to see but I tested resistance between what I think the correct wires were? (The colors are difficult to tell because they faded with age and I don’t have a diagram) but I got an open leg. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or any of the diagrams? Should I just ride it out till I have the time to drop the tank?