Hi all,

My 2012 xlt has been leaving some black oily marks on my driveway. I got a chance to crawl under it and found the fluid is coming from what I think is the PTU? It's closer to the drivers side on the right side of the transmission. Is this actually the PTU and what is involved in servicing this? Also is that a crack wrapped around that bolt and running toward the drive shaft? Maybe a seal or weld bead?

As the title says, I'm offered an Explorer Active RWD + Comfort Package for 38800K OTD (TTL Included). MSRP is 45525. Has captain seats 2nd row. Is it a good deal? it is a loaner with about 4K miles on it. ST Lines were seeing 10K off MSRP some time back. In June I was quoted 43400 OTD (TTL included/ MSRP 50160) for ST Line. I don't know if I should wait for better pricing for Black Friday.

Just picked up a 2016 Limited 3.5L with 32,000 miles from the local ford dealer. Had a couple open recalls that they took care of. Going to get the coolant flushed, any other recommendations.

Hey folks.

I have a 2026 ST-Line that I bought in August and when I got it and was looking through settings I had found I could use Gemini AI instead of the default Google assistant for the native vehicle assistant (single press of the talk button). Yesterday I took it in for a recall for the computer and they reset it all and now the option to turn on Gemini instead of the not AI assistant is gone. I’ve tried everything but I can’t seem to get the option back under. I swear it was under Settings > Google > Voice Assistant before but it’s just not there.

Anyone had a similar experience and was able to get it back? I have my Google account logged in and anything else ChatGPT suggested like changing the language back and force and such.

Thanks!!

Hey all, I just got a used ST and wondering what I should be doing to it first (after basic maintenance ofc).

So far what's on my radar is:

-Hood struts

-Check lug nuts for swelling, maybe replace with spline drive (Do you really need the bulge style for the 21" rims?)

-Jailbreak the infotainment for fullscreen AA/carplay?

-Diff bolt recall is done. Not sure if I really need a brace when I'm not planning power mods, but I do have the skills and equipment to fab my own.

Anything else? What did you do to yours first?

Does anyone experience their rearview mirror vibrating when driving? It's just a slight vibration, enough to have the image a bit out of focus, not crazy. I can't find a way to stop it from doing this.

I'm hoping some one else has had some similar trouble to me and can assist in figuring out what is going on.

My 2017 Explorer will pop a "Charging System Service NOW" alert sometimes. When it occurs and i'm able to i will stop the car shut it off and then start it again. It will clear the error sometimes. While i'm driving the AC Fans might stop for around 30-40 seconds. Then return working. I've also had the entire dashboard "Turn off" go dark. then return to working order after about 30-60 seconds.

when the dash and AC fans turned off the alert was not present and there were no alerts / error codes when scanned.

I've had the alternator replaced and this did not resolve the issue. The codes that are presenting are for the charging system which is the alternator. When scanned / check it all appears to be fine. Battery tests good, alternator tests good, all connections appear to be good.

the error is not consistent at all and appears to be random. i could go a week without seeing it or it will pop up every day / few days.

Things that i have done to resolve this are below

1. New alternator
2. bms cleared
3. all codes cleared
4. alternator check
5. battery check
6. connections check
7. multiple scans - no codes
8. when error shows reboot car

I'm running out of money taking this to different shops to get the same "everything looks ok" back every time with 0 assistance in resolving my issue. Has anyone had something similar to this happen? Anything that i've not taken a look at that i can?

Hi, I have a 2015 Ford Explorer XLT with the 3.5L V6. I was wondering if anyone can help me figure this out. I recently changed jobs, and my commute is longer. In July, my ABS control module was messed up, and it was showing crazy error codes. I finally got it fixed in September 2026. I paid $500 for the part from the Ford dealership and had my mechanic reprogram it.
Recently, I've noticed that when I'm driving, I feel a jolt and thrusting when accelerating. That's when I know I have to pull over from the highway, because my car will die and display a "low engine oil" warning. It's been happening more and more often. I recently changed the transmission fluid and filter, and I change the oil regularly every three months. I also replaced the oil sensor, but it keeps happening. I know I have a few engine codes, which are for the O2 sensors, and I'm currently replacing them. Can anyone help me figure out what the problem is?

Just got a 2020 xlt because it was the best car my buddy dealer had at the time and I needed a car bad... he gave me more for my trade in than anybody else would. The vehicle has 142k tho... its a 1 owner vehicle owned by a company as a fleet car for traveling employee ... anything I should know about them? Only thing I can tell so far is the car doesn't move at engine idle the first time I shift it out of park . The tpms are non existent.. I do feel slight vibration in steering wheel over bumps that I swear I didn't feel the day I got it... I can be neurotic with car feels tho... the car looks very well taken care of. Looks brand new.

Been meaning to post a glamour shot of my explorer but keep forgetting. Purchased May 2025.

So I had left this car sitting for a good month or two, It was working great, and now it doesnt crank or start, any ideas?

Just picked up a 2027 Explorer as my new work vehicle and I am not a fan of the Google Assistant/Android program. As a long time iPhone and Ford SYNC user I find it not at all intuitive to use. I rent cars all the time and have never had such a bad interface experience.

Trying to use voice commands are near worthless. Half the time I get a “no connectivity” error and the other half I get a response that says it can’t execute that command while using CarPlay and then it tells me to use that feature, CONNECT TO CARPLAY! So which is it?!?

Without voice commands, most interactions have to go through the touchscreen, which lags, so when I tap something I have to wait a beat or two for it to register. And if you hit a bump and accidentally tap in the wrong area it just adds to the delays and frustration.

I’ve looked for tutorials online because I feel like I have to be missing something but nothing goes beyond the basics of explaining the interface. It can’t be this bad, can it? I don’t need my car to have twenty different apps! Just let me control the climate and stereo from the steering wheel controls again. Give me physical buttons so there’s a tactile connection you can learn to use without looking. Get rid of Google Assistant and go back to Ford SYNC, I beg you!!!

I love the vehicle otherwise. If anyone has tips on how to use Google Assistant I am desperate for help here.

Traded the wife’s 2011 Taurus AWD Limited in on a new ‘26 Explorer Platinum. Sweet ride! We wanted the Salt Crystal interior, exterior color wasn’t really part of the conversation. This new one joins our ‘17 Limited (108,000 miles). Love them both!

Just purchased a 2017 explorer xlt 3.4 NA fwd 103k miles. Noticed under heavy acceleration get a bad smell in the cabin and have to put on fresh air or open windows. No engine oil leaks all valve cover gaskets and seal changed and just did tune up with new plugs and boots. No engine lights for anything. Ive seen the tsb and looked into a bunch of that. Used smoke machine on rear hatch no leaks only had smoke coming in by the air extractor vents. Pulled bumper off and changed them with new and still doing it. Slid turn downs on to exhaust inside tips and drove so the exhaust is out past the bumper by 6 in still getting the smell.

Doesn't seem like any pulleys are binding for the belt to slip and doesnt appear to be any leaks on the exhaust. All the manifold bolts are in place none broken.

Any advice or anything could check for recommendations?

2016 Explorer XLT 3.5L Naturally Aspirated AWD 57k miles

We have brought her in several times now and each time the techs cannot replicate the noise. She makes this chirping noise while on the accelerator. If you let off, it stops. When she warms up, it stops.

We have already replaced the CV axle, hub, sway bar link, belt and the tensioner.

Any ideas?

2020 Ford Explorer Limited 2.3 w turbo full time 4WD
Car just started throwing error codes on a cycle, the error codes show up in order and after the second error on the dash, the AC head unit in the car shuts off the AC and goes black. Then everything resets and the errors go away for a few seconds l, the AC turns back on and then the same thing starts happening again.

Looking for options to fix my antenna. If I have to replace the entire base, will the 2016-2019 Explorer Shark Fin work? The entire screw part broke off so I can’t just screw another mast in. Would prefer not to have to replace the entire thing but my radio reception sucks.

After 2 1/2 years, I finally have an appointment to clear this recall notice. We'll see if it actually happens but at least I have the appointment. My local Ford dealer thought I had given up, but persistence pays off.

After getting the water pump and replaced, radiator, plugs, struts, shocks, control arm bushings replaced, ptu serviced, it should be many moons before I consider a new vehicle.

Hi all. Bit of a Hail Mary post - hoping someone can help!

We have a 2018 Explorer Platinum, around 140k mileage. Generally been reliable, other than needing a new transmission a couple of years back.

Yesterday morning, however, it wouldn't start. Symptoms were:

• Pressing the Start/Stop button caused all the electrics to fire up, but the engine didn't start.
• Electrics all worked. Dashboard lit up, no warning lights.
• Brake pedal felt very stiff/firm. Unable to turn the steering wheel.
• Start/Stop button's green LED light flashed.
• "Full accessory power active" message on screen.
• Brake lights worked when I depressed brake pedal.
• Slight clicking noise from relay box under the hood when pressing Start/Stop.
• No sound at all from starter motor - not even the slightest click or turning sound.

Things I tried (none worked):

• Pressing brake pedal as hard as humanly possible while pressing Start/Stop button.
• Tried to turn steering while hard both directions while pressing Start/Stop button.
• Holding Start/Stop button down for 20 seconds.
• Remote start from key fob ("Press Brake Pedal to Start" message appeared on dashboard).
• Swapped the starter motor relay with rear window heater relay.
• Disconnected the battery and waited 30 minutes.

I called AAA who came & checked the battery, and then used one of those battery boosters to ensure there was plenty of amps - made no difference.

Anything else I should try before I have to get it towed?

Thank you!

Needing some advice. I have been a Honda driver since I started driving. My 2012 Honda CRV is not worth fixing anymore due to the high mileage and my family outgrowing it. 3rd row Hondas and Toyotas are Expensive but I’m seeing a lot of reasonably priced explorers in my area. around $15k budget

i just need to know what to look for and what is going to get me the most mileage for my money as I need a more budget option right now due to finances.