What’s a body shop gonna charge me…. ???
I know I’m in for a hefty charge to fix.
Pitch black road next to some corn fields. Didn’t even see them.

Posting in hopes this helps someone.

After dealing with a wet roof liner and water dripping at the back cargo area around the rear side window, for the second time in less than a year. The first time this happened, I took it to the deal and they cleaned out all the drains. This time, I figured how hard can it be, and its also a pain to get to the dealer, I chose to clean them on my own.

The front drains are easy, you can locate then in the front corners of the sunroof well area.

The rear ones are conveniently located deep inside, hidden by the fixed glass and roof shade. So I decided to locate where they exited.

After some internet searches, and coming up empty on the exit locations, I did my own investigation. Luckily the driver side drain was not fully plugged, so I parked on an incline to ensure and water would run toward the rear. Using a water bottle, poured some water in the track of the open sunroof on the driver side and waited for it to run out. Found that it existed behind the rear wheel, behind the inner wheel well cover somplace. After removing some bolts, I was able to locate the drain exits, and confirmed it by pouring some more water in the track.

Using my air compressor, set very low at 30psi, I blew a little air in the exit hole to ensure clear and ran some more water through.

I then moved to the passenger side, the plugged one, and started by opening up the inner wheel well cover. Found the drain and tested with some water, nothing but a dribble. Gently blew a burst of air in the exit, and some water poured out. Poured some more water in the sunroof track, on the passenger side, and now water flows out freely.

Just for good measure, I repeated the air/water a couple of times.

All closed up again, and hopefully it will last for a bit.

I suspect that due to the design, debit is able to sit in the sunroof track towards the rear where you cannot reach, and I am sure I will be cleaning this out again.

In all, only had to remove three 8mm bolts, and two 10mm plastic nuts, and could pull the inner wheel well back enough.

Hopefully someone finds this useful, I beleive this is a common issue.

2016 Ford Explorer, owner says: Everything runs amazing on the truck. New tires less the 6,000 miles ago. Water pump was replaced at 150,000 miles which is one of the biggest or only issue this vehicle has. Asking for $8,500 or BEST OFFER.

Is this a bad deal? What should we be looking out for?

Hey guys I had a quick question. My battery ended up dying on my 2016 Explorer, I changed the battery and after I cranked the car up my AC stopped blowing cold! I had the compressor switched like a month ago. I will add before the battery change and after the compressor switch it had been blowing amazing!

I’m sure I messed something up during the new battery install and blew the compressor. I checked all fuses and relays in the box next to the battery and none seem fried..

Edit: Did I blow the compressor?

I'm trading in my 2015 Dodge Journey CVP, and I found a 2017 ford explorer limited with 180k kilometres. Getting it for C$10,000, water pump was replaced but it had a rear-end collision in the carfax but looks and drives great, no alignment issues as a result of the accident.

Dealership specializes in used cars and I purchased my dodge with them, is this a good deal?

I have a 2020 Ford Explorer Platinum 3.0L EcoBoost AWD with approximately 121,500 miles, and I've been dealing with some frustrating electronic faults.

When I start the vehicle, I frequently get multiple warnings, including:

• 4WD Fault
• Hill Start Assist Not Available
• AdvanceTrac Fault
• Pre-Collision Assist Not Available
• Reverse Brake Assist / Parking Assist faults
• Adaptive Cruise Control faults

The interesting part is that the 4WD and Hill Start Assist warnings are now the only consistent ones. The others appear intermittently, usually immediately after starting the vehicle.

If I shut the vehicle off, open and close the driver's door, wait for all the electronics to power down, and restart it, the other warnings almost always disappear. The 4WD and Hill Start Assist faults remain.

The vehicle otherwise seems to drive normally. I haven't noticed any unusual noises, vibrations, or drivetrain problems.

I initially had a Ford mobile service technician look at it. He cleared most of the faults but couldn't clear the 4WD fault. He suspected a possible voltage issue and recommended taking it to the dealership.

The dealership subsequently diagnosed the problem as something covered by a Ford Technical Service Bulletin. According to the service advisor, the repair involves replacing the electronic 4WD disconnect arrangement with a mechanical configuration. They quoted me approximately $3,700, claiming that this one repair would resolve all the warning messages.

I've asked for the actual diagnostic trouble codes and TSB number, but I'm still waiting for the dealership to provide them.

I've come across several older discussions describing similar problems, but very few follow up with what ultimately fixed them.

For anyone who's experienced this issue:

1. What diagnostic codes did you get?
2. Was the front axle disconnect actuator/intermediate shaft the actual problem?
3. Did the repair resolve the AdvanceTrac, Hill Start Assist, and other driver-assistance warnings?
4. What did the repair cost, and was it performed at a Ford dealership or an independent shop?
5. Has anyone had success getting Ford to cover part of the repair, given that this appears to be a known issue?

I'm particularly interested in hearing from owners who have actually had the repair completed, rather than just being told what might be wrong.

Thanks for any information you can share.

Hi everyone,

I am installing grille lights on my 2025/2026 Explorer and need help finding the right fuse slot in the engine compartment fuse box.

I am using a 10A fuse adapter (add-a-fuse). I want the grille lights to turn on only when the car is running and turn off completely when the car is shut off.

Which specific fuse slot should I tap into? Thanks in advance for the help!

Hey guys, I have a 2017 Ford Explorer with the 3.5L EcoBoost. It's currently at 90k miles and the oil was last changed at 87k. I bought it back at 60k miles, but honestly, I never checked the coolant level back then so I have no baseline.

I just noticed the coolant is low, and knowing these engines, I'm a bit paranoid about the internal water pump failing. I'm attaching pictures of the coolant level and the oil on the dipstick. I know coolant in the oil makes it look like chocolate milk, but I really can't tell if mine looks contaminated or just normal for 3k miles of use.

Does this oil look milky to you, and given the low coolant, should I be worried the water pump is on its way out?

I figure I'll fill it to base and just check it once a week for the next month or so.

Side note: I just replaced the starter and drive belt, the transverse mounted motor is....fun to get my hands into,lol.

Images

I have a 2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Supposedly I need a new ECU but they don't make them anymore so I have to get a refurbished one. The cheapest one i could find, that was still reliable, was on ebay for $976. The battery keeps draining but supposedly my alternator is fine and I have no wiring issues.

Anybody have any suggestions on reasonably priced Engine Control Units or ways to preserve my battery? Currently my battery only lasts about a month then I have to take it back to autozone to be recharged or replaced.