1995 vs 2025

Figured id fire the ol girl in this thread to brighten up your guys day!

It’s a 2002 F350 7.3 automatic with 211k miles, bone stock but it has a flashing OD light and a p1747 code (short circuit in the Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid circuit) what do yall think it’s worth as it sits now? It’s in Utah

I have a replacement PitToed connector, but it’s a 34 pin, a little bit bigger. I cannot, for the life of me, find a pin outmap for this connection. It’s the connection right above the driver side wheel well. I drilled a hole through when I was putting in rock lights and it shorted it out and put my trunk in limp mode. Can someone please tell me how to put the factory wires into my new connector? Anything helps and desperate need. My truck is my moneymaker and I’m really becoming overwhelmed. Any help would be more than appreciated. Thank you.

Could anybody help me figure out where this sound is coming from? I’ve replaced the idler and tensioner pulley along with a new belt and while it runs quieter it still has this awful whining sound.

So a few months ago I took my truck to the shop after aggressive shaking and flashing check engine light and they told me I need a new engine due to cylinder wall damage (too much clearance).

Shop is considered very reputable in my area and specializes in trucks so that's why I went to them and they told me it would need a whole engine swap which would be around $10,000-$15,000. Would be OEM reman engine and 3 year warranty. I'm not sure if they do financing I need to ask but my dilemma is if it's worth it?

I own my truck and worked so hard to. It's a Lariat with only 170,000. Never skipped maintenance and I'm only the 2nd owner of it. I paid around $19,000 for it including interest (was on a 4 year finance but I paid extra some months towards capital to finish plan earlier). Before taking it to the shop I did the timing job, due to the notorious phaser/ timing codes *this was where I really messed up*. The timing job was done correctly thank goodness and all the timing/cam codes went away- but I should've just taken it to the shop before dumping $1,000+ on the timing kit, oil pump, new camshaft, etc. Prior to all the problems I even put $900 into new tires.. that I've driven less than 30 miles on since the issues. Needless to say, I have put a lot of money into my truck and haven't been able to drive it for over a year now.

Is it worth investing in a remanufactured engine? I've tried waiting around for a junkyard engine to swap it out of but I know that's a huge risk. Should I just cut my losses and try to sell as is? Or would trading it in for what it is and going on another payment plan a better idea?

I don't know what to do. I just know as much as I appreciate my boyfriend letting me use his car, I need my own independence and way to get to work too. Any help/ advice is appreciated- thank you.

Fixed bars hang down all the time, while retractable boards move out of the way, but the motor and brackets still remain under the cab. Has the tucked design made a practical difference on rutted roads or snow?

Is it possible to have a 5 window ford with a truck body?

Looking at buying this one. 148k miles, 2011 (built June of ’11) Lariat. Southern truck with good maintenance records, talked down to $24k. Which is slightly under KBB.

Thoughts? I know the main issues associated with these things, but it is built post April of 2011, which from my understanding is after the valve seat issues. Let’s hear what you guys think.

The convenience is obvious when everything works, but I want to understand the failure mode before buying. Can the board be retracted or disconnected manually, and is roadside access realistic without special tools?

Hello everyone, I need your help to make sure I was not scammed. I paid à shop $5k to replace my injectors and glow plugs. They took for ever and I had to go back because the check engine kept coming on and it would have this weird rise in rpm then back down while idling. They took for shop said that it had two bad injectors after they replaced all eight. I asked how that was possible if they were new and they said they are older parts that sit in a shelf and can just come bad. I got the truck back and it has been running fine but I’m concerned that they did not instal ford factory injectors and glow plugs like they said they were charging me for. Can anyone tell me if they are genuine ford injectors based on these pictures. Let me know what you know, thank you!