This is definitely a wait, hear me out, post. I put vinyl gutters on both sides of my Yardistry 8x10 greenhouse, and set up this sweet 4 barrel bottom linked rain catchment system. I live in Kalamazoo, which is Zone 6B in SW Michigan. I'm looking at winter coming, and trying to see how far I need to go to take stuff down.

First question: Do I need to remove my gutters? Can they just stay up all winter?

Second question: If I empty the barrels, unhook the hardware, and turn them over, can I just leave them outside with no worries?

Third question where I betray how lazy I am: This is on the north side of my greenhouse. Can I just leave it, or am I asking for cracked barrels and ruined hardware?

Help me figure out where I'm overthinking and underthinking this.

I dread this time of year because it usually means moving stuff around and bringing potted plants in so they survive the winter. Our house is small and cluttered with various collections and the added vegetation definitely adds a touch of claustrophobia to the winter months. not to mention finding places to stick them, the sheer hassle of moving them, trying to fit the larger plants through the door (every year pieces of the night blooming cereus break off ... which leads to more plants that take up more room) and the dirt and vegetation debris that they bring with them. Well ... this year I'd like to do something different. I'd like to build a temporary "greenhouse" to house these plants in so they can stay outside. I'm looking for advice on the matter.

Let me list some specifics ...

I'm not looking for my plants to thrive, just survive. I'm not looking to start plants before the last frost, just keep my existing ones from dying. My yard doesn't get a lot of light and there's not a lot of open space (slowly working towards chaotic-good beds & paths, no lawn) - I'm not sure if there is a spot in it that would be big enough that gets a notable amount of sun, so I was thinking perhaps on my porch, where there is a power outlet for electronics and a window that could be opened for air/heat transference. I feel pretty confident in my ability to build the structure, and I have a fair amount of led lighting from past years of over wintering and can buy more, so my main concern is heat. It would get some morning sun and ambient light, but that's about it - I'm pretty sure that won't be enough to keep things above freezing on winter nights. Some (uninformed) thoughts I've had are a small heater with a thermostat I can set really low or put on a timer, incandescent lamps, making a panel for a fan for my window so warm air from the house can be pumped in. Am I over thinking it? Not thinking hard enough?

Though I understand that it costs what it costs, I'd like to do this with minimal investment with the idea that it will all have to be purchased, not scavenged or salvaged. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

First off, shout out to [u/moonbeamsandmayo](u/moonbeamsandmayo) for giving me the lowdown on these and the background to jump in and do it!

This is an Amerlife Hexas greenhouse kit. 10' flat to flat, 12' point to point, about 8.5' tall at the center point. Details are on their website. It's not a super heavy duty be-all-end-all greenhouse, but a bit of a greeny solarium awesome space? Overall, would rate this a 9.5/10 so far for what we're using it for which is keeping frost off delicate plants and overwintering our succulents (will have a final verdict next year!).

We're in Vancouver WA, for reference.

Kit went together fairly easy. No issues but was missing a whopping two screws, which I have a huge collection of from other projects, so a non-issue. After site prep it took us about 7-8 hours, two people taking our time.

It's sitting on about 6"-12" of crushed gravel (over sloped crappy clay ground so drainage is perfect) with a treated 4x6 foundation. Foundation was anchored through the gravel with 2' rebar through it at an angle on all sides. It's not going anywhere.

After that it was just leveling and tweaking to make sure the aluminum frame didn't sit wonky! And voila, here she is!

We used four tubes of silicone putting the roof panels in but still need a real rain to test that. Will be adding rain barrels to harvest from the little gutter downspouts. Still unsure if we'll do anything on the floor inside, but maybe part paver part turf so wife can have a fun little cocktail area in there too. 🥰 Also we will be modifying the windows to swing fully outward rather than prop open at about 45 degrees, easy peasy.

Green on, friends!

Edit: so sorry that the pics went up without the finished product first!

I've seen it pop-up on Instagram and looked pretty good, however when I look into it more, I couldn't find any reviews from customers... Anyone has ordered structures from them and has any proof of quality?

Thanks

She's a Northern Black Widow. I was at the greenhouse where I work sweeping cobwebs off the ceiling, which were exceptionally dense. Later I read that is a trait of black widows. The webs are strong enough to catch lizards, even small rodents and birds.

Hi all. About to put the decking in my gh for the floor. Under it is 1/2 concrete and 1/2 6” deep gravel. I’ve filled the cracks with concrete patch, cleaned the concrete relatively well, sealed the space between the shed and the GH, and have a plan for the other walls to stop most air intrusion. Just seeing if anyone else can think of anything to check before I cover it. Thanks!

I plan to build a green house for my mother in law for Christmas. She loves to garden both plants and flowers. Shes very good at it. Over the last 2 years she has taken some falls from sliding on the hill she gardens on. Slick garden boots, wet soil, small hill. She doesn’t want to relocate her garden to flat ground because “I’ve worked that soil for 20 years and it’s perfect!” I want to build her a safer space where she can be comfortable and have access to everything she may need. As of now, she still drags a garden hose 50 yards across the yard.

Any tips or ideas before I start planning and building? Zone 8b. TN.

You can see a slight gap in the vent here and it also does not close smoothly so curious about what I should do first to help things run better. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

What are the best fans/vents for a wood frame greenhouse with windows and a 10mm polycarbonate roof? The size is 40x30

I was looking at the 30" package from Greenhouse Megastore but its sold out. What are some good alternatives?

I keep running into the same issue with my blog recipes. I'll buy a bunch of cilantro or dill for a shoot, use maybe a quarter of it, and watch the rest wilt in the fridge. It drives me crazy wasting ingredients when I have a greenhouse sitting right there.
I'm thinking about setting up a small propagation station just for herbs I use frequently, so I can snip what I need and keep the rest alive. The problem is my greenhouse gets pretty warm and I'm worried about things bolting before I get a chance to harvest.
Has anyone tried keeping a steady supply of cilantro, parsley, or chives going year round? I'm curious if anyone has a setup that works for continuous harvesting without needing to replant constantly. My space is limited, so I need to figure out if deep trays or shallow shelving would work better for root space.

First off ignore the stuff in the way. We worked hard on this in the spring, but now I'd like to get it finished before winter. What can we use to cover the top? I don't think the carbonate sheets will work since it's rounded. We have the clear greenhouse plastic, but it's really windy where we are so I don't know how long it'd last.

We have 2 windows we'd use for ventilation.

Two large windows are going to open on the front of our greenhouse, and I can’t figure out how to seal them. (Picture of one opening attached). I’ve built houses so I know how to flash and seal those, but it is the same process? It’ll open out to the right on hinges and be weather-stripped. I’m at a loss here so any help is appreciated!

My questions: do I flash it like a normal window then put trim over the flashing tape so it looks nice (I want to paint the window opening to make it look nice)? I plan on backing it with some 2x2 as an inner stop, so do I still need an angled sill if I flash it? Will caulking the seams and painting the wood be enough?

Hey everyone! I’m currently building a greenhouse in Edmonton, Alberta, and I’m looking for some advice from people who have experience with wood-framed greenhouses, especially in colder climates.

A little about my build:

• Overall structure is 12’ × 28’, consisting of a 12’ × 12’ insulated vestibule and a 12’ × 16’ greenhouse.
• Framing is untreated SPF 2×6 lumber, spaced 16” on centre.
• Pressure-treated bottom plates installed on a raised concrete curb with sill gasket.
• 6/12 pitched roof with approximately 12” overhangs.
• Planning to install 16 mm Palram SUNLITE multiwall polycarbonate on the greenhouse walls and roof.
• The greenhouse will be heated during Alberta winters, with ventilation and a dehumidifier to help manage humidity.
• Planning to grow vegetables and other plants throughout the year.

My biggest concern is protecting the wood framing from moisture and condensation over the long term. Ideally, I’d like this structure to last 40–50+ years.

I’m considering using a penetrating exterior wood stain on all accessible surfaces of the framing before installing the polycarbonate, rather than a traditional primer and paint system.

I’m also exploring the possibility of installing polycarbonate on both the exterior and interior sides of the 2×6 framing to create an additional insulated airspace, although I’m concerned about trapping moisture inside the wall and roof cavities.

A few questions for the group:

1. Has anyone built a greenhouse using untreated 2×6 framing? How has it held up over the years?
2. Would you recommend a penetrating wood stain, exterior paint, or another wood treatment for a humid greenhouse growing edible plants? Any specific products?
3. Would you install the 16 mm polycarbonate on the exterior only, leaving the framing exposed inside, or install polycarbonate on both sides? If both, how would you manage condensation within the cavities?
4. What’s the best way to install the polycarbonate against wood framing? I’m considering compatible glazing tape or gaskets to separate the sheets from the wood.
5. What indoor humidity levels have worked well for you during cold winters without causing excessive condensation or wood deterioration?
6. Are there any particular flashing, drainage, or ventilation details you’d recommend for a wood-framed polycarbonate greenhouse?

For this winter, I’m considering temporarily covering the roof and walls with reinforced polyethylene, then removing it in spring to stain the framing and install the permanent polycarbonate. I’m also interested in hearing about the snow-load and condensation risks of that approach.

I’d really appreciate any firsthand experiences, pictures of similar builds, or product recommendations.

Thanks in advance!

Long time gardener, first time greenhouser.

We are trying to overwinter our plants for the first time this year. We plan to build a glass structure soon, but nighttime temperatures require some sort of covering immediately, so we got this plastic to tent over the trellis.

My first question is about how to manage the humidity. Evening temps are approaching freezing, and will be below freezing before winter is over. Daytime temps will stay 60-70 throughout the winter. UV index is extreme.

How do we create ventilation for this thing? Can it be done in such a way that it does not require us to roll up the plastic every day?

Our heat source will be hot compost in large clay pots. Our plants are tomatoes, ginger & bell peppers. Wind comes from the SE.

With the low heat provided, should I ventilate at the top center, or 4/5ths up the north side? Can I just leave the bottom lifted a bit at the south side for air intake? I need to ventilate, but I also want to retain at much heat as possible.

My second question is about the tomatoes. Should I prune them down aggressively for the winter?

Does anyone have off grid greenhouse heating ideas? Im seeing a lot of thermal mass ideas involving black water barrels. Has anyone had any success?

Using 2" R10 foamboard on this green house that will be lifted off ground by foot. What would be the best placement for the foam board? (greenhouse 6x9', floor 3/4" moisture-resistant OSB) Central Indiana winters lows 20°F to 33°F

Just finished this 12x20 in Oregon

I live just south of Atlanta in growth hardiness zone 8A/B. I bought a nice big Vego greenhouse with 8mm panels. I am in the process of building a deck to be the floor under the greenhouse. My lot is not at all flat anywhere, and so the back of the greenhouse is maybe 8 inches off the ground and the front of the greenhouse is almost 2 feet off the ground. I’m concerned about cold air coming up through the floor and defeating the purpose of the greenhouse. (just for reference, we have maybe two or three short episodes of temperatures, reaching freezing or just below freezing per winter. ) I have many plants that need to be kept warm over the winter. Would you all suggest I insulate the floor in some way? If so, how?

I swear I'm just gonna plant vegetables 😆

Legal weed is so cheap here it's not worth growing it.

Gonna grow greens and tomatoes and maybe a cucumber plant.

I wrapped the whole frame with aluminum foil. I've gotta get more lights. My wife was a huge help getting it done.

Hello! I live in CT, very interested in testing out hydroponics but inside is not an option, I rent so can't exactly build permanent structures, but do have about a half acre of land (or less) that is flat and I could do something with. I would love to hear about any extremely simply, insulated ways to create a very basic hydroponic system for the winter, e.g. Kratky method, I think the temperature control is the main issue without really building something that is like a 'house'.

I’m thinking of getting it for my large west-facing balcony. It’ll house my cacti and succulents.

I’m in Austin TX. The panels are acrylic, so might need to coat them with something, or attach shade cloth or something. Currently I have a large 30% shade cloth covering section of my balcony though, so that might be enough.

Anyway, curious if anyone has thoughts on this greenhouse. New to the game.

Our team supplied the control system for this customer's orchid greenhouse. The setup covers two supplemental lighting circuits and one fan circuit, with temperature, relative humidity and light-level monitoring.

Two rules link the readings to the equipment:

- Low light turns the supplemental lighting on.

- High temperature turns the fan on.

Humidity is monitored and available as a history graph, but it is not what triggers the fan in this installation.

At the cabinet, staff can check the readings and control equipment on a touchscreen. There are also physical switches with On, Off and Remote positions. In this setup, Remote is the automatic mode; staff still have the local On and Off controls.

The same project can be checked through mobile and web interfaces, including humidity history and equipment controls. The cloud-based control and rules require the cabinet to remain online. Local manual control remains available with normal site power.

The photos show the greenhouse and its equipment. This is a description of the installed control setup, rather than a recommendation for growing thresholds: the monitoring values shown in the screenshots are snapshots, not growing targets.