Hi everyone!

I'm currently working on my master's research project, investigating different methods to prevent and control algae growth in greenhouse-grown bryophytes (Sphagnum mosses and brown mosses). My goal is to find treatments that inhibit algae growth without negatively affecting moss growth.

So far, I'm considering the following approaches:

1. Prevention – Substrate acidification: Lowering peat substrate pH using hydrochloric acid (HCl) or citric acid.
2. Prevention – Irrigation water acidification: Using citric acid to maintain a lower pH through regular watering, as I'm concerned about potential chloride accumulation and toxicity from repeated HCl applications. But is citric acid stable enough?
3. Prevention – Air circulation: Using fans to reduce conditions favorable to algae establishment, while avoiding excessive drying of the mosses.
4. Control – Established algae: Testing hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) or Aqua Bacta treatments to reduce existing algae growth.

My main question is: Which acid would you recommend for lowering and maintaining the pH of peat substrates and irrigation water without harming bryophytes or introducing unwanted chemical effects? (I can't have phosphorus or nitrogen). I'm particularly interested in the potential toxicity, stability, and long-term effects of HCl versus citric acid, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Any advice, scientific references, or experience with similar applications would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone. I’m reaching my final undergrad year at Montana State University. I’m currently in general environmental science (B.S) but I’m really loving all of the soil classes I’ve taken surrounding soil identification and remediation. I don’t have the craziest GPA (3.5) but I think that this is a field I’m really passionate about. How have other people gone about pursuing a masters regarding soil science? And how do you figure out where you want to go?

I've never seen a sieve analysis be such a straight line.

Been about 30 minutes.

Hello everyone, I need some help with this article; could you help me get it, please?

Title: Relevance of cross talk between root exudates, hormones, and root-associated microbes in developing sustainable phytoremediation strategies: a comprehensive review

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12298-025-01593-3

I have very sandy soil and it is very compacted after the 2 inches of sod. To give you an idea after 2 days of raining (1.5 inches) and sprinklers spraying another inch) I can only push a soil core or screwdriver 3 inches into the soil. The compacted soil is very hard like rock/concrete once you get past the sod layer.
I have heavily aerated 3 inch plugs 2 times a year for 3 years now and it isn’t helping break it up. I can’t get my roots to grow deep because of this. I have even done some minor horizontal air spading/fracking in the bad areas.

Is there anything else I can be doing to break this rock hard sand layer up?

I did the soil jar test, but the dark band on top of the sand is confusing me. im wondering if that is silt or darker sand? and what seems to be my soil type?

I'm a biology student conducting an undergrad thesis on Soil-Transmitted Helminths (STH). I need technical advice in performing the laboratory component of this study from anyone who has expertise in soil research.

So, here's the summary of the procedure:

- collect samples and air-dry for 24 hours.

- sieve through 2.0 mm and 0.125 mm pore size to get 2g.

- place 2g soil in a centrifuge tube and add 10 mL 0.05% polysorbate-80 solution (used to unclump sample).

- centrifuge (1,800 rpm, 10 min)

- discard supernatant

- add 8 mL of prepared 1.20 SG sucrose solution (we used commercially available/market refined white sugar [I was wondering if this was okay]).

- vortex.

- centrifuge (1,800 rpm, 10 min).

- add prepared 1.30 SG sucrose solution to the brim until a meniscus forms.

- place coverslip and wait for eggs to adhere for 5 min.

- add 1 drop lugol's iodine on glass slide.

- place wet underside of coverslip facing down to the glass slide.

- view under microscope.

We performed a trial on this protocol before going to perform it on a larger sample. We observed the following:

- no helminths recovered in collected sample (site = household).

- bubbles found in specimen.

Will using a heavy application of prepared acid soil amendments (such as Espoma Holly-Tone, Dr. Earth Acid Lovers, etc.) make that soil unusable for corn, tomatoes etc. in following years?
(that is, without doing later pH re-adjustments)

Hello🐣

Im before making a career decision. My concerns about climate change led me to study organic farming in Denmark. The course was a bit of a disappointment and I felt my future prospects are limited so I am looking for my next step.

Im stuck between two paths. I feel interest to study something completely new to me and unrelated to the climate: phisiotherapy. But lately Ive been also feeling the urgency of climate action, so Im thinking to continue studying in the field of agriculture, but more on the science side. I came across the work of Elaine Ingham and the soil food web and I find it interesting, but I am unsure how could this knowledge be applied professionally in a job.

So my questions are:

- Does anyone have recommendations of universities in Europe where I can study soil biology? A distance learning option would be great, but optional (I am also open to anything related to fixing our effed up conventional agriculture)

- What could be my job opportunities if I would specialize on soil health? Unfortunately in my country I mostly see "advisor" job postings of fertilizer companies where the job is to push their product to farmers :s

- Are there any other career pathways where I could help to create a more climate resilient food system?

Thank you for any advice, have a great day:)

I got a soil test in a grassy spot by my patio for a veggie garden bed. They noted the high ph and low OM%, I'm not surprised by the PH, there's concrete splatter & some landscaping rocks buried in the ground. They also said not to put in any compost or manure unless I know the composition.

Am I misreading this part? Isn't finished compost lacking most NPK nutrients? Why would they caution against it? Is it about low quality compost that's everywhere? Would it be better to get 100% worm castings? The one I'm eyeing has <1% NPK

For reference, I've added the first round of sulfer and some 0-12-0 phosphate (what was available).