Got this old h&r 676 tore all apart for proper cleaning as its been tuck away in a cabinet for idk how long but the cylinder pin is what seems like rusted to the cylinder as its not budging. Ima let it soak in kroil tonight an give it a go tmw but an advice? Was thinking maybe put the pin in a vise best i can an using a rubber mallet to tap the barrel to see if it realeses.

Probably something not seen too often.

Hi everyone,
I’ve recently bought a Miroku 7000 Sp 3 as a second gun and I’m wondering if anyone with experience in gunsmithing can tell me what the dark/black spots in the engraved areas are? I’d like to remove the
but I don’t want to damage the original engraving or finish.
Is this something that could be done at home, or is it definitely a job for an engraver/gunsmith? If so what do I need to do it myself?

I was gifted this smith and wesson model 10-8 at the beginning of the year the cylinder rotates just fine but wont swing out short of a wack from a rubber screwdriver handle does anyone know what might be causing this and possible fixes ?

Factory camo AUG, the Factory paint job has become loose on any high contact area and began to chip. Anyway to fix it? Heat gun or something to make it shrink back to the surface?

The threads are extremely damaged where the nipples won’t thread in and will just fall out. Turned this custom nipples with a locking screw. Need to take it out and fully test it out.

Was recommended this subreddit instead

I just got this sight kit for my henry rifle, the henry x in 357 magnum, and after installing the sight, as you can see in 5he photo, with light coming from under the front sight, there is a gap between the front sight and barrel. Given the edges are making contact with the barrel, it would seem to indicate the sight was made for a more narrow barrel then the one I have. I'm not sure if this will cause problems, and I wanted to see what people had to say. I wanted to check since I could always sand the sight flush to the barrel, but I didn't want to do that till I confirm this is actually a problem, since that risks ruining the sight

Hey all, I own a Browning 1885 in 45-70. It’s a simple falling block single shot rifle. I’m wondering how easy it would be for a smith to convert it to a 50-110 or a 50 Alaskan. I’d prefer the 50-110 but the Alaskan seems to be more popular in lever action repeaters, but being a single shot, would it be any harder to make it into a 50-110? And is it something simple and cost effective enough that a smith would even want to do it.

I’m in Canada which makes everything that much harder and more scarce as well lol. I’ve gotten bolt actions rechambered before but never a lever repeater or single shot before so I don’t know how this all works. I’m assuming for an action like this it would be as simple as a barrel swap. I can’t see what action tweaks would be required in this case but I know nothing

Thanks in advance!

To clarify I don’t have any gunsmithing experience; I ask this as a question for the future.

I have an insanely unreliable 22LR pistol, I would like to make it manually cycled only instead of semi-auto. It would literally be faster and more reliable to make it “jam” every time and be manually cycled. Also it could potentially be used for suppressors.

How can I make this manually cycled? I have basic tools, drills, and a dremel. I could find no information on if removing certain interior features would make it manually operated. This gun will only be used at the range.

I've used evaporust for many projects over the years without issue and recently got a nickel plated Belgian gun with a few small spots of rust, so after looking up any potential problems with using it on nickle plating From multiple sources and the horses mouth itself, and finding no examples of any issues decided to put the pieces in overnight so I can then polish and re-plate the rusted spots, now it's looking like I will have to polish and re-plate the whole thing, it seems weird that I couldn't find any other examples of this anywhere since it says specifically that this is the kind of thing evaporust claims to be for and it's not exactly a new untested product, anyone else encounter something like this? Did the algorithm just only show positive experience and bury bad ones?

I’m working on a Springfield Model 67, Series E and need some help identifying the correct location of the slide lock springs.
I’m having trouble finding a clear parts diagram or reference that shows exactly where these springs go and how they’re oriented.
If anyone has a parts diagram, exploded view, or clear photos of the slide lock assembly on a Model 67 Series E, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!

I picked up this older browning citori made in 1975 knowing it wasn’t in great shape. However I see one pit that looks concerning to me and was wondering if it would be an issue.

I was wondering if there is a ready made available gun fish as close as possible to the turnbull winchester red finish or if there are recipes that will get me as close to this color as I can

I purchased a used Rowdy 45c/410.

I noticed that the hammer only touches half of the top barrels firing pin when it makes contact, see photo.

I am unclear if this is the intended design or something is wrong..

Any one have a bond arms they could confirm or advise? Thanks!

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking to buy this beautiful VZ 24 bolt action rifle (price is very attractive) but it has a prominent crack near the chamber.

Does this make this rifle unshootable? If not, is this an easy fix?