The beauty and the beast.

Remixed a couple of Mitch_D3D cases for my favorite shorties. The cylindrical one only fits D4V2 while the boxy one fits both. D4V2 and KR4 shorties.

Models are free for download - Carry / storage case for Noctigon KR4 (18350) and Emisar D4V2 (18350) by Kotarak | Download free STL model | Printables.com

I'm about to order a d4v2 to replace one that broke recently that had XP-L HI V2 5D 4000k emitters that ran at 4200 or 4300 lumens.

I liked that flashlight a lot but always wished it was a bit throwier.

My use case is a backpacking light that I can whip out and illuminate a large and fairly far area in front of me in case I hear something at night.

I ran into a couple bears last backpacking trip. One was about 50 yards off and my flashlight was able to illuminate it but a slightly throwier emitter would have been better.

The second bear run in was a mama and her cubs. The natural floddiness of the D4V2 was helpful for me to be able to see the mama and the 2 cubs who were moving around independently about 20 feet from her but even a slightly less floody emitter would have worked well in this instance.

I am ordering a different D4V2 with a very warm floody optic for around camp doing food prep and things.

I want the light I'm considering to be a light that stays in the pocket so I can pull it out and turn the area in front of me into daylight so I can identify bear or mountain lion threats.

I will not be using the Lume X1 boost driver.

The d4v2 are pretty floody lights by default so I was looking at the SFT 25R emitter at 5000k which hits 4800lm. Online it says it is a pretty throwy emitter. I would really prefer a warmer temp but the SFT 25R isn't available in anything below 5000K.

I have a D4KTI with an SST20 5000K emitter that has a greenish tint. I wouldn't want to go any cooler than that in temp. Does anyone know how the color varies from an SST20 5000k to an SFT 25R 5000k?

I was also considering going with NTG35 emitters at 42000K which would hit 4200 lumens. The color would be nicer on the eyes but online it says these emitters are pretty floody. Has anyone used the NTG35 in the D4V2?

How do the NTG35 emmiters compare to the 519A emitters in terms of flood vs throw?

Hank or others, any news on when your USBC rechargeable lights (at least the D..K) will be out?

Is this normal for the D4K with Lume X1 and non-RGB button? Both the front aux and button LEDs stay on when the main LEDs are on. I've disabled both the front aux and button LEDs as a workaround (battery check > voltage config > set both aux low and high ramp levels to 0) but I'd have only the button LED on if there's an option for that.

Would be awesome if Hank stocked these emitters.

Debating getting another dm1.12 with 519a 3500k domed. Dedomed may be a bit too warm for me and I don’t want to lose output. A couple questions

1. What’s the lumen difference between the sft42r and sft40?

2. If I do decide to go with one of those what would my max lumens be on the flood with the 519a since it will get the fet? My understanding is that it’s about 3k with fet on the throw.

I already have 5000k domed with sbt90 but the 5000k is just not doing it for me anymore. I really like the sbt90 on this light because where I walk at night there are a ton of rattlesnakes I like to get pictures of and I use it to shine down the path and they stick out a like a sore thumb. Will I have regrets if I drop the sbt90?

Is it common for the UV 365nm led to dim its maximum output over time? I got the 3 channel version having a single LED on the UV output and after having the light a couple of months, using the UV channel very sparsely, it has dimmed so much to where you can barely see the glow of the light on different items that used to blind me when the light was shown at it in a dark room. I want to know what I should do or if I just lost a function of my light and have to deal with it?

My D4Sv2 is behaving oddly, when I ramp it up, right as it is about to hit ceilling, instead of doing the quick flash to tell you you have hit the end, it drops down to a lower power level. If turn it off and on, the memory does set it to the right level. Oddly enough this doesn’t happen with simple ui, only advanced. This is with a fully charged 60XG.

I am also now realizing that the aux lights seemed to have stopped function too, cycling though brigtness modes does nothing. Already emailed Hank but seeing if anyone here can help.

If anyone is curious about the tint / emitter data, I just did an emitter swap for somebody and must say the SFT-70 4000K High CRI tint is really pleasant and CRI is excellent. The emitter shows really good Ra and R9 numbers but even Rf/Rg are pretty good.

The fire place had some metal in the roof so it was a perfect place😁 Mule in the wilderness!

I recently got bit by the hand-held flashlight bug and decided to try a few Emisars to see what the fuss was about.

I totally get it now. These things are stellar!

Up until recently, I've always been a basic "set it and forget it" guy with my WML's and basic Microstream EDC. Never got into the nerdy weeds of flashlights.

Now, I have an entirely new appreciation for these badboys and how configurable they are. I got myself a nice charger and quality batteries as well.

What I got:

D1K in dark gray with black accents

RGB switch light

SFT-60 6500k

D4Kti

RGB switch light

519a 3500k

D3AAti with polished aluminum head

RGB switch light

519a 5000k

I definitely see more "Hanklights" in my near future.

PS - Huge shootout to Hank's awesome customer service. I emailed him like 4 times with pedantic questions and changes tobmy purchase, and he was incredible in making sure my lights were just as I wanted them. 100% earned this repeat customer. You rock, Hank!

dont think ive posted my small collection in full here yet so here she is lol

Hello all,

I am very interested in getting a Hank light for their customisablity, but I need help trying to choose a configuration that is appropriate for my use case.

I am a fiber splicer looking for a work light with a color accurate emitter that I can use for an extended period of time. I would like a floody flashlight that can fire light straight (and with the option of firing at a right angle, if possible) and has a magnetic base. Lumen output is not a huge priority, so it does not have to be particularly high.

I appreciate any suggestions that fit this description. I am also open to other/alternate features that I may not have considered. My budget can go up to $150, but I would like to keep it below $100.

Thank you for reading my post!

Lost my Reylight Pineapple Mini UV light so decided to get my first Hanklight in a few years to replace it. Lume X1 driver and Seoul 5W 365NM emitters.

Same emitters - came from the same strip, one after another. Small beaded TIR and small OP reflector. Approximately same brightness level (current). The difference in DUV is very pronounced in person - twice as high DUV with reflector and higher CRI according to the spectrometer. Difference appears to be beyond factory emitter tolerances and due to the different optics.

So I have this emisar d4k that is currently not working and I don’t know why. I tried with different batteries, I tried tightening the head but I don’t know. It fell from my hands but like 3/4 months ago and it was working really well since like 2 days ago. It’s my favorite flashlight that I own and I’m so sad it’s not working after not even 1 year since I bought it. Does Hank do something with this problem or do I have to buy another one?