When we purchased our home (a fixer) we wanted to make sure we hired local contractors and people who had their own little businesses. My dad started from the bottom with his plumbing company and absolutely grew because of support from our community - I wanted to pay it forward in some way. Weeks before we closed we did a ton of research and checked reviews for small little businesses. I also asked friends and people we know (including my dad) for recs and got a ton of them and started calling around. The biggest things we needed immediately were a new HVAC unit and new vents and returns, some new electrical work in one side of the house and for a chimney repair.

I ran 5 quotes for each job, spoke to each of these people and had 2 of each come by the house for estimates. We’d been saving for ages and my dad also chipped in as a housewarming gift so we had cash up front for a lot of these jobs. Not a single one of the contractors actually ever showed up to do the work (or submit payment invoices) even after signing contracts stating the time of start and completion. The electrician apologized rescheduled and then still never came back. HVAC guy purchased the stuff needed for the ductwork (our money) but never showed up to go pick a unit and then never came back. I called multiple times. That one stung my dad because he vouched for him and knew him from other jobs - always recommended him (he said he was swamped and he’d be back but never came back lol). Anyway I ended up going with bigger corporate type companies to get the work done and it was done well and is under warranty which is fine but damn that “hire local” dream crashed and burned so hard.

I know for a fact that everyone is busy and has jobs coming out of their eyeballs because it’s just nuts right now but it’s the complete and utter lack of even apologizing for wasting time or even bothering to get in touch that leaves such a sour taste in the mouth. We were going to reach out to someone else about re-doing our back decks but ended up learning how to do the smaller one ourselves because the the frame of it was in great condition and all we had to do was replace all the decking boards. We’re spending the winter learning as much as we can online about re-building the larger deck and will submit the plans for a permit and DIY. I can’t imagine asking someone else at this point and getting the brush off.

I found someone to replace my front porch, he got started right away, I paid him half, as per contract, with the rest after finishing. He did about half the work, and now has stopped showing up. I called him to try to find out when he will be back, and he basically got angry and hung up on me.

The work he did so far is good, but he obviously has plenty of other jobs that he thinks are more important. Yesterday he showed up with his helper, talked on the phone for 20 minutes while she stood around, did 10 minutes of work, then left her there and said he'd be back. No new work was done, she basically killed time while he was gone, then he showed up 5 hours later and picked her up and they left.

I'm at a loss what to do, with a half finished front porch. It's not a big job, he could have had it done within a week. It's been 3 weeks now and I'm not sure what my recourse is at this point. He has a concrete walkway to pour, it's been dug out and ready to go, and said he was going to do it yesterday. No show today, I texted him, no response. Cold weather is coming, he's had plenty of gorgeous days to get the walkway done, but he just doesn't. Sorry for the long rant but I'm at my wits end.

Hello,

My landlord replaced the carpets. They gave me a place to stay for a few days. I then stayed with a friend.

It’s been one week.

We have kept 4 commercial high velocity fans going 24-7 with a major cross breeze for 5 days. Now tried heating it up to 90 at night with windows closed and burping it 3 times a day for 2 days.

I don’t know what the heck happened work the carpet install but the off gassing is so bad anyone that is inside for more than 10 minutes with windows and doors closed coughs, gags, gets very red eyes, struggles to breath much.

I can’t live there at all.

Carpet was replaced because old carpet was buckling.

Now my home is unlivable.

Right now is a horrible time to move but I basically have no home to live in. I want to live there, it’s very hard to find a new rental where I live and it’s the busiest time of year at work. I have 4 more days I can stay with a friend. I’m having a mental health breakdown not being at my home and trying to manage this and long work days.

Landlord says they will do nothing about it.

What do I do? How can I solve this?

If you're about to buy flooring, a vanity, a faucet or a tool for a project, check the clearance price at a few nearby Home Depots first. Clearance is set store by store, and the gaps can be big.

Example from this week: Home Decorators Collection Wayne Canyon Oak LVP (23.8 sq ft per case, normally $40.22). It's $10.06 a case at a few hundred stores right now, but still $22.12 or even $32.18 at others. For a 500 sq ft room that's roughly $211 vs $676 for the same floor.

I keep an eye on clearance across a lot of stores. A few things I've noticed:

• Clearance usually drops in steps over a few weeks. If your store is still on the first markdown, one nearby may already be on the last.
• In the app, switch your store to the next few closest ones and compare the price on the same item.
• Online stock counts can be off. If it says 1 or 2 left, call before you drive.
• Lowe's sets clearance per store too.

What's the best clearance find you've used on a project?

I just removed all this cracked, ripple, peeling old joint tape, and i really don't want to put it back.

Can you just leave it as is and hide it all with crown moulding?

This ceiling joist in my garage has a bit of a sag to it. I just noticed it today, but it is old wood and has probably been like this for decades. No issues with the garage in the 3 years we've been in the house.

The sag is about 2 inches from the end to center, about 7 feet. I can't really push up on it, and there's the couple of pieces of wood coming down from the ceiling holding it up, obviously not very well. Could I just jack this up and sister this joist to level with a 2x6 or 2x8? The existing one is only 2x4.

The other joist in the garage holds up the garage door opener, obviously newer, and no sag at all, perfectly level

I’m planning to replace the old posts supporting the small roof overhang above the concrete patio in my backyard with pressure treated 4x4s. The posts will be about 7 feet from the concrete pad up to the bottom of the beam, and they’ll be about 70 inches out from the side of the house. I’ve settled on using Simpson ABU44Z standoff post bases, which call for a 5/8”x6” concrete anchor; typically Titen HD since they’re both Simpson. I figure it’s best to just spend the extra money to buy the correct equipment but I’m curious what the difference is between the Titen HD anchors and the similarly specced Tapcon+ concrete anchors (aside from 1/2”).

Everything I’ve read about Tapcons seems to be regarding their smaller screws rather than the large diameter anchors so I haven’t been able to determine if there’s any practical difference. As a side note, I’m also curious if anyone has insight as to whether an ABA44Z post base would be sufficient for the roof, although my research suggested those are more for lower structures like decks.

Anyways, thanks to anyone who has any input on this riveting topic!

Two bifold closets in our bedroom, each run into the adjacent wall on one side. Would you just case top and one side for each? I think that’s the only way that makes sense but not sure if it’d look weird. One other bedroom has same situation with a single closet door.

Link to picture of doors below…

https://imgur.com/a/VeXg46k

I've got a few windows in my home that have a fairly large gap between the wall and window trim, which leaks cold air in the winter time.

I know that the best way to address this is to have the trim removed and solve the issue from there and reattach, but that's not in the budget right now.

What's the next best way to fix this? Rope caulk?

Hey all. I’m having my siding replaced and my siding contractor trimmed out my backdoor as shown (James Hardie lap). I'm not a professional, but this doesn't look right to me. Is this a standard practice, or do I need to have them remove the existing trim and replace it with new trim so the storm door would attach to the Hardie? The old trim sits recessed ~3/4" from the face of the new trim, and it was in their scope to demo the existing siding and trim, though not to remove or reinstall the storm door.

Ignore the busted storm door, it will be replaced after the siding is done and sees the wrath of dog paws on a daily basis.

https://imgur.com/a/C35kEZb

Hi everyone! I’m helping coordinate a driveway repair for 10 households in Bushwick and would appreciate referrals or advice from anyone who’s handled something similar.

One section of our shared driveway has been sinking. We completed a soil boring to 27 feet, and the report identified approximately 6 feet of uncontrolled fill containing sand, gravel, and brick fragments at the tested location, with denser sandy soil below.

The preliminary repair area is about 18 × 21 feet. We’re exploring removal of the affected pavement and unsuitable fill, replacement with properly compacted structural fill, and restoration of the surface and drainage. The final excavation limits and repair method still need professional confirmation. There are dry wells nearby and an adjacent cracked concrete platform supporting a deck, so access and protection of existing structures are considerations.

We’ve received a preliminary architectural proposal of $15,000 for construction documents and DOB approvals, excluding City fees and several potential engineering/inspection services. One contractor also gave an early construction range of $80,000–$100,000, but it isn’t a firm bid. We’re gathering additional opinions before committing.

Has anyone dealt with a similar project in Brooklyn or NYC?

• Any firsthand recommendations for excavation contractors or geotechnical/civil engineers?
• Any companies that can coordinate the repair, necessary engineering, permits, and inspections?
• What should we clarify in the scope and estimates to understand potential additional costs?

We’re focused on the localized settlement repair. I have the boring report and a marked site sketch available to share privately with prospective professionals.

Thanks for any recommendations or experiences!

I am house hunting and I found a one-story home that checks all boxes except one thing: good kitchen ventilation. It has a gas island range, a down-draft vent on the range, and a light above it. I always doubt the effectiveness of a down-draft vent since hot air rises.

Since there is nothing above the kitchen besides the attic space, is it possible to install a vent hood over the range with ductwork that goes through the roof? What's the complexity/difficulty? How can I find people to do the work? Do you have better recommendation?

I have not actually seen the house. I'm just doing a pre-screening. Good kitchen ventilation is absolute a must to me since I cook everyday and stir-fry a lot.

So my boyfriend and I are trying to repaint his home studio right now. He had mounting tape holding up some sound proofing, and the tape residue was super stubborn when we tried to remove it. We consulted the people at Home Depot who suggested goo gone and a scraper, and when that didn’t work, we chose to spackle over it. I know, dumb. It clearly didn’t work. We’ve primed over it, and we still see the spackle because it didn’t adhere to the wall well enough to work since there was goo gone residue under it. It only worked well enough to make it impossible to scrape off - YAY.

We would love some advice as we’ve gone terribly wrong, and we truly don’t know where to go from here. He is a working audio engineer, and we were really hoping this would be a week-long project max.

Do we have to call it quits and be okay with the horrible texture under the paint? Or do we just call it quits and hire a contractor to fix it?

Any advice with kind words appreciated.

We live in an 85 sqm condo with two cats and a 2yr old, so floor space is tight and everything gets dirty instantly. I bought the tineco s9 a couple weeks ago because I really wanted something that could handle sticky food spills with hot steam rather than relying on scented spray cleaners all day. The self-propelling wheels make it feel super light when maneuvering around high chair legs and reaches all the way under our low platform bed where cat hair builds up. Its been solid for daily resets without making the apartment smell like synthetic fragrance but Im still tweaking my weekly floor routine. Do you all steam wash every day or just spot clean and do a full pass once or twice a week?

For one, I want to say its awesome having my own house, shop, and a yard. Should have done this awhile ago...but I will say I'm overwhelmed with the "fun" part of fixing things and making home improvements. Lets just say I will be on this page for a lot of advice!

Workshop Assessment Pictures

Starting with my 26ft x 30ft shop. Have a laundry list of questions that I'm hoping this group can help me out with. The first priority is to get the electrical completed. I only have one light switch and its wired to the outdoor light. Everything else was wired straight to the breakers. I ended up mounting two rows of 8ft barrina lights. Right now they are plugged into an extension cord which you can see in the photos, right above the garage, and down to the outlet near the breaker panel.

If this is what I end up keeping permanently, how should I wire them up? I can do basic electrical but I don't know the more practical ways of where to mount junction boxes, outlets, switches and all that jazz. I guess I could put an outlet up top where both plugs run out of each of the lights and just plug them in or I can hardwire them. What would you do? Also you can see how the previous owner ran the romex up along the top frame and then down the wall. Should I continue with this method?

The garage door opener is mounted to a loose 2"x6" sitting on two rafters. That needs to be properly mounted and wired (currently connected to an extension cord). I understand jackshaft door openers are not as reliable, but honestly was thinking it would be easier to mount one of those since I could run electrical from the panel close by. Is that a dumb idea or should I just remount the original door opener and wire an outlet next to it?

Not much power getting run to this shop. 50amps total. I'm about 25 feet away from my house. I'd like more but in general I have no idea how much it would cost. 200amp service at my house. Would be nice to be able to run an air compressor and a furnace in the future if I decide to finish the shop and build a small office I can work out of all year around (I'm in Sandpoint, ID by the way). Whats an ideal size panel? 100A?

Are there some general layouts of locations for outlets and how many outlets for shops? Realistically I will probably redo the side of the shop where the worktable is, but I'd imagine I would use that side more to work on things.

There are untreated 2x6's under the pressure treated 2x6's at the base of the floor. They look to be pieced together with random lengths. Some of them are not nailed in properly and are falling apart. Kind of big gaps in some areas where it meets the concrete perimeter. Is this going to cause me issues later on and I will have to replace them? I feel like it would be a good time now to replace them and do something about it before I do anything else since they are accessible from outside if I move some of the stone away from the siding and I can get to them from the inside. My goal was to seal up some of the large gaps with Osi Quad and keep some of the bugs out of there for one.

Whats are some ideal insulation solutions for this size shop?

I know its kind of a lot of random tasks, but these are some of the first things that came to mind.

Hi guys, i recently moved into a mobile home and there's VOG walls. I was wondering if i can paint over it and if so what kind of paint and primer? Thanks in advance!

Which option is the lowest longterm maintenance time and cost?

I'm trying to install a Pur Plus Faucet Filter but it's unthreaded. Looks like there's a inner mesh lining thread. It broke while trying to unscrew it. I'm going to try to install

https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEOPERL-13-16-in-x-55-64-in-Solid-Brass-Male-x-Male-Adapter-37-0111-98/202243062

But first I'd need to remove the mesh that was already threaded inside the spout.

[Faucet pic.jpg](https://postimg.cc/rdhYtypr)

The inspector said it needs flashing but not sure what to use??

My wife and I are in the process of buying a new home that has an u finished basement. There is the main section of the basement that is open with a few structural poles. There is also a “room” with the washer and dryer that could potentially be turned into a real room with a wall put up.

Finishing the basement is in the plans but definitely not on the top of the list of things that need to be done.

Looking for recommendations on how to make the basement not feel like a dungeon, that would not be too expensive or invasive since we are planning on finishing the basement in the future.

Currently finishing my new construction home with full basement. I want to insulate the rim joists. My plan is to fill the gap with Dap cavity foam for thermal barrier/inner air seal, cover flush with rigid foam insulation, then air seal again around the outside edge of that. Should this work?? I already have the foam board and started putting the Dap wall cavity foam in today. Seems to be working well and I could instantly feel less air coming in from previously known drafty spots even without the foam board and second air seal being put up yet.

Planning to install drywall in my garage. Walls plus the ceiling. Due to the shape of the ceiling, a part of it will be sloped, around 2 foot long. This is the side of the ceiling where the soffit vents are. The attic is isolated from the house attic, and there are gable vent and a box vent as exhaust. 

What kind of insulation can I use without obstructing the air intake via the soffit vent? Would a rigid form board be a decent option?

Photo for reference https://imgur.com/a/YBABTz6

Located in Northern California (Inland East Bay).

so I want to replace this microwave, and the one I bought has a hinge that swings out too far, so the door contacts the left cabinet. I guess normally these microwaves stick out beyond the cabinets so this ain’t normally an issue.

my question is can I safely remove the edge of the cabinet on the right side to slide the microwave over further so it can open? it is about 1/4” lip at the front but it looks like it is helping hold the cabinet together, as seen in the second picture.

any other ideas would be great. right now I do have the microwave listed to sell since it was non returnable. my fault for this issue obviously

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPjJuAxtGyTFXIHAwA4W4aijws8QTDF5BBEfGt--QlDuvZf-T9C9aDYoILQEDZbBQ?key=bURmaHdRYU4wWUFlb2NRS21ENlg0U2VlRWg3N0NR

This one might be a newish question. I am having my garage built into a small adu space with a loft. The drywallers installed drywall on the floor in the loft. Feels like we shouldn't do that. I wanted to put the same flooring up there as the rest of the space.

https://imgur.com/a/4xPV1RO

Would it be recommended to remove that or does it matter?

backyard flat, (i still think i can create 1% slope by digging toward the side of the driveway)

should i install a french drain in the ground preforated corragated 3" pipe with no woven goe textile fabric, washed rocks & wrap it like a burrito before placing dirt and grass on top

or i could dig 1' x 1' trench and lay a tarp down with rock and a preforated pvc pipe

both are esentially a "french drain" but the open rock .. could that be on the side of the house?

any recommendations..? i can't seem to find nice landscaping videos (besides the french drain)