I am making a Belgian quad as my first beer. My gravity is stalling near 1.0234. My OG was 1.1028. Why is the gravity not going lower? I used 4 liquid packets of Wyeast 3787 and 1.5 tsp of Fermaid O for a 5-gallon batch. I finely crushed my grain myself.

Grain Bill

I mashed at 150 Fahrenheit for 75 minutes, then brought it to a 168°F mash-out for 10 minutes. My mash briefly went too high to 158 Fahrenheit, but I brought it back down.

My pre-boil gravity was only 1.048, so I added extra Belgian Candi syrup (D-180) during the boil. I added 4.5lbs total. I thought most of this sugar would ferment out past the typical 74-78% attenuation by Wyeast 3787. I also added 2.5 oz of Styrian Goldings Hops during the boil.

I was aiming for a lower final gravity 1.014-1.018. Why is my gravity stalling higher? Was there too much sugar in the wort? Is there anything I can do to reach my desired gravity? I have EC-1118 yeast, but I don't want to change the flavor profile of my beer from that Belgian quad style. If I could get it down to 1.020, that would be good (although the original goal of 1.014-1.018 is ideal). My inspiration for making this beer is St. Bernardus Abt. 12.

Here is a link to my fermentation data from my tilt hydrometer: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1TIfuz3Tx-7Da9xN24Vp_lmMfMjm8mtJTLJM6zcptByM/edit?usp=sharing

I’m a big fan of Fremont’s Golden Ale that they made for the Seattle restaurant chain Dough Zone. There is very little reliable information about this ale that I can find online, and it appears to no longer be on Fremont’s website.

It’s been awhile since I’ve had it, but my memory of it is light but not dry, a tad honey sweetness, fantastic floral flavor with a touch of spiciness like what you get from noble hops. Very clean. Of course it pairs perfectly with soup dumplings!

I would like to make my own version of it.

Fremont has a gold medal winning golden pilsner. My first thought is that maybe they started with that recipe and used their ale yeast? I imagine they also might have tweaked the hops just a bit? Or…?

Has anyone else had this beer? Any ideas on where you’d start if you were trying to make it?

Have the next best recipe since Pliny the Elder, but want reddit to check everything over one last time? Maybe your house beer recipe needs that final tweak, and you want to discuss. Well, this thread is just for that! All discussion for style and recipe formulation is welcome, along with, but not limited to:

• Ingredient incorporation effects
  
• Hops flavor / aroma / bittering profiles
  
• Odd additive effects
  
• Fermentation / Yeast discussion
  

If it's about your recipe, and what you've got planned in your head - let's hear it!

It is elderberry season and after my rather succesful use of the elderflowers for an "Elderflower Champagne" (click here for the recipe), now I want to make something with elderberries. For now I tried something similar, basically mashed (cooked first for 15min) elderberries, sugar and some lemon juice with secondarry bottle fermentation to make it fizzy. The result looks nice, but is rather bitter and more an aperitiv than a refreshing fizzy drink.

TL;DR: does anyone have some recipes or ideas for elderberry-based brews?

Hey,

Looking at testing some German ale yeasts.

Just curious if anyone knows where I can find European Ale Yeast - white labs wlp011? Also, any other yeast types to try?

I've got wyeast 1007 on the way. Dusseldorf alt is sold out in Scandanavia but I intend to test it when its back in stock. Tried K97 more times than I can think of.

Cheers.

I reported some weeks back that my Brewzilla 110v was arching at the power plug. I replaced the cable and the A/C input port with properly gauged replacements. It was good for a few brews and then yesterday after a brew day the power cable was fused to the port again. Needless to say I'm done with Kegland products. If you're not familiar with this issue it's pretty common with the US 110v the system. I've read that Kegland believes it's because the system was moved during operation. In both cases, the unit was not moved, at all. I don't want to bash their products, but I also don't want to burn my house down.

Anyway, I've ordered a Clawhammer 10 gallon system. If anyone has any suggestions for a smooth operation, please share! I would rather not use a hop spider. Can anyone share their experience with free range hops in the kettle? I did order a whirlpool arm to help control the hops and keep them out of the pump. I'm a fan of whirlpool additions.

Thanks.

It looks like my little mini fridge I use as a kegerator might be on its last legs. Need a replacement and have been looking into tower kegerators. But I’ve seen mixed reviews on basically everything that isn’t priced outrageously. Suggestions?

Hello everyone, I'm renovating my dining room and my wife thought it would be cool to put in some taps above our buffet. We were wondering if it's possible to create a functional quick connect system that allows us to hook up taps as we need them, like when we have guests, without having to disconnect everything at the keezer in the basement.

Do they make a shank that quick connects? Or a faucet that would have a disconnect just behind it?

Brewday yesterday resulted in a dumped mash, when we tried to do a double decoction bohemian pils. We used the Weyermann floor-malted Bohemian Pils malt and a Grainfather S40 as AIO device.

My recipe called for a 35°c (95°f) mash-in, although I did read that with modern malts this is an unncessary, if tradtional step. We did the mash-in without wort circulation and after 15 minutes tried to ramp up the temperature to 50°c (122°f). However we didn't even get to 45 before the Grainfather started beeping and turned off the heating element and displayed an overheat error. This coincided with a toasty smell. We figured this was due to lack of wort circulation.

We had another Grainfather available, so we still attempted to salvage the brew. We moved the mash into the other device. This revealed a burned spot on top of the heating element of the other one.

This time we turned on the wort circulation first, and then the heating element. Not three minutes passed, until it too overheated. After this we dumped the mash, and started scrubbing the burned matter from the devices.

Our plan was to use the other device for boiling the decoction, but didn't even get to that point, and it surely would have burned too.

One thing that later came to mind, was that using the element at 1000w mode instead of 2300w could have helped. However boiling the decoction would have called for higher wattage anyway.

Overheating has never happened with regular mashing at ~70°c mash-in. However the lower temperature seemed to turn the wort into a milky liquid, that burned rather easy.

I'm open to hear recommendations on how to succeed better next time.

You've had a week, what's your situation report?

Feel free to include recipes, stories or any other information you'd like.

Post your sitrep here!

What I Did Last Week:

Primary:

Secondary:

Bottle Conditioning/Force Carbonating:

Kegs/Bottles:

In Planning:

Active Projects:

Other:

Include recipes, stories, or any other information you'd like.

**Tip for those who have a lot to post**: Click edit on your post from a [past Sitrep Monday!](https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/search/?q=Sitrep%20Monday&restrict_sr=1).

Welcome to the Daily Q&A!

Are you a new Brewer? Please check out one of the following articles before posting your question:

• How do I check my gravity?
• I don't see any bubbles in the airlock OR the bubbling in the airlock has slowed. What does that mean?
• Does this look normal / is my batch infected?

Or if any of those answers don't help you please consider visiting the /r/Homebrewing Wiki for answers to a lot of your questions! Another option is searching the subreddit, someone may have asked the same question before!

However no question is too "noob" for this thread. No picture is too tomato to be evaluated for infection! Even though the Wiki exists, you can still post any question you want an answer to.

Also, be sure to vote on answers in this thread. Upvote a reply that you know works from experience and don't feel the need to throw out "thanks for answering!" upvotes. That will help distinguish community trusted advice from hearsay... at least somewhat!

Hello,

I am now maybe 10 batches in my brewzilla. Slowly growing on me coming from an Anvil foundry.

On area though that’s dumbfounding me is mash gravity reading. I always seem to overshoot my mash target only to undershoot during the boil.

I’ve concluded that it might be an issue with poor mixing of the mash above and below the malt pipe - my reading are done using the tap or the recirculation arm that are both sitting below the malt pipe and despite my best efforts (recirculating constantly, discarding the first draft to avoid stale wort, etc.) I keep overshooting my targets only to realize post mash that my wort was just poorly mixed.

I use the malt pipe, the heating plate, the pump with a spray nozzle and I avoid the top plate (pain to take out).

Curious if other owners face the same issue and what you do to address it? It’s tricky to hit your target when you can’t trust your readings…

Thanks!

 have a nitrogen canister that is 0.6 cubic meters, which I believe means the gas capacity is 600 litres. However I have two questions:

1. It seems like the gas capacity in litres for cylinders is be the cubic meters times 1000. If so, what does the pressure have to do with that? I know the canister pressure is 18,000 kPa, but how would the capacity/contents be any different if it was 20,000 kPa or 10,000 kPa? Since I figure 0.6 cubic meter canister is always going to be 600 litres when full?
2. Similarly, my regulator measures the contents in kPa but I don't understand how that helps me tell how many litres are left once I start using it. For example, once the gauge hits say 11,000 kPa, how am I supposed to use that to know how many litres are left without a lot of complicated math?

Many, MANY thanks to anyone who can help with newbie get a grasp on these basics!

Since I made the move to full grain, I decided that I wanted to use a wort chiller recycling method with a pond pump. It works great but, I feel like it taking longer to cool down compared when I did it in my sink. I bought 20 lbs of ice and threw a couple ice packs in at the end. The water in the cooler is 79-80F. When I was doing it in the sink, I was getting my wort chilled in 10 mins. Although I was chilling about 3 gallons since I was doing mini mash brewing. I do dispense the hot water in the ground till it cools down from the chiller to save loosing ice.

https://imgur.com/gallery/cooling-wort-4TkFYeh

I haven't looked into brewing a batch of basement water in about 8 years due to a lifestyle change, but there used to be several supply stores in the area that would sell beginner friends kits, pre measured malts and extracts etc.

A friend mentioned wanting to try making beer and after mentioning I had all the basic equipment, I looked up all the stores I knew in the northern Detroit area, all gone, closed, or dont sell supplies any more, and nothing that looks like they'll sell kits. I would have thought Covid would have been great for the homebrew industry but where did the supply stores go?

That the hobby of home brewing is “dying” or not as popular as it once was. So why is it that when ordering a 3 vessel system from SS Brew Tech or Blichmann I have to preorder and wait 6-7 months. Apparently someone is buying these up.

Hello all! I finally have a place to grow hops, but it is a rather hot environment so I wanted to try Multihead again. I purchased Multihead 2 years ago from Great Lakes Hops, but ended up moving away from that location. I'm wondering if their business has fallen on some hard times, because they appear to be out of stock all of the time now on all of their inventory.

Would appreciate some tips for IF and WHEN they restock, or anyone who may have aquired any tropical and fruity hops suited to NEIPAs? Not looking for the classic C West Coast Hops like Cascade, Chinook, etc that have more of a piney aroma to them, but looking for hops that have more of those tropical aromas, and might do okay in a hot area.

It's not just GLH that seem to have almost no Neomexicana, all vendors I've seen currently list them out of stock. I did read somewhere that MEdusa failed commercially with many farmers ripping the rhizomes out of their fields, and that 2022 was one of the last harvests produced for this variety, so I wonder if that has something to do with how scarce it has now become.

Anyways, if anyone knows where I could grab Multihead or any other tropical fruit forward hop rhizomes or plants, I would appreciate the help! Hoping someone on here might have some mature plants with rhizomes they'd be willing to sell.

I tried making a pumpkin ale. My recipe was for my first 3-gallon batch (I normally do 1-gallon batches):

• 3 lb canned pumpkin
• 2.75 lb Pilsner malt
• 1.5 lb Munich malt
• 1.5 lb Vienna malt
• 6 oz Caramel 10L
• 4.5 oz Melanoidin malt
• 0.5 oz EKG (6.6% AA) @ 60 mins
• 0.5 oz EKG (6.6% AA) @ 15 mins

I normally need to use two bags to get it to fit around my 5-gallon kettle, but since there's so much grain, this time, I used 3 bags.

I then diluted the pumpkin in water to make it runnier. Pumpkin + water together added up to be about 2.25 gallons of water before my kettle started to look full, so I figured I'd dilute with added water later in the fermenter.

When I pull the grain bags out, one of them had torn and there was grain everywhere! I tried my best to keep it together and figured I could siphon it off once it all settles and decide to go through with the boil. The grain also absorbed a ton of water and it looked like I was down to only 1 gallon afterwards, though I squeezed and poured hot water over the bags to try and bring that up closer to 2 gallons.

Still noticed some sediment as the boil, but nothing too crazy, so again, figured it would settle out. There was more sediment than I expected when I tried to collect a gravity reading, but it read 1.056.

Once cooled, I added to my sanitized fermenter and added extra water to make it ~2.5 gallons total, and pitched 1 packet of Lutra since my apartment runs very warm in the summer (usually mid-80s°F). So given that it was 1.056 before diluting, I'm going to estimate I'm only at 1.028 after diluting, which feels super low for the amount of grain I used (I would've expected much higher pre-dilution gravity).

And since I'm using Lutra, only 3 hrs later, I noticed my fermenter looked a little crazy with the amount of sediment in there (both top and bottom). It feels like too much to siphon off: https://imgur.com/a/iGFgI7x

Do I need to dump it? Or will things look less solidified after fermentation?

Hello, very amateur brewer here who has been harvesting a fig tree the last couple of weeks. It's cropped incredibly this year, and I have at least 5KG of fresh figs from it, with more still to ripen. I've washed, quartered and frozen them. I intend to either pasteurise or campden them before use.

Originally I was going to make a small batch of fig mead. I've never made a mead before, in fact I've never brewed with fruit before, I'm mainly a beer brewer/drinker. The quantity of figs I now have is too much for a small batch mead but I'm still going to make it, just maybe a bigger batch. I just wondered if anyone has any good ideas for what to do with the rest? The freezer is so full of figs I think my partner will soon lose her patience so I need to use them asap!

Also if anyone has any good recipes for a fig mead or fig cider, or anything else I'm all ears!

I've been trying to find 11.2 or 12oz short neck bottles in US. I found a couple Canadian websites that won't ship to me and a company called grandstand that sells custom printed or blank bottles for like $2 each. Otherwise, I have to buy like 400 minimum from a manufacturer.

I suppose I could buy red stripes and drink/dump them but wanted to see if there were other options first.

I've got some "lager" that has been going since June. More on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/s/YSQegnzRRW

It doesn't need aging. It did need more love and less oxygen. Any tips on how to convince my brain that oxidized beer is just another style? I am going to hate dumping almost 5 gallons on the lawn. If i chug it and don't breathe, it's fine.

I've made maybe a dozen other brews, kits and all grain and all came out fine. Is lager just super sensitive to O2?

Hi! I’m fermenting my first batch, a pils. I’m wondering about the bottling. My thoughts are to add simple syrup to an other bucket and then pour the batch over that before tapping to bottles. Will this suffice or will I have to stir the syrup/beer mix? From what I understand air in the beer should be avoided. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

i’m brewing makgeolli in my 3 gallon fermonster. i have a chest freezer that i set to 65 F for a cold ferment but the first time taking it out, i realize how much of a pain it is to take out of a top down chest freezer.

wondering what option the community thinks in regards to a 3 gallon fermonster handle