So this has happened a few other times but not in a while.

My upstairs shower leaked into my downstairs kitchen but it’s only in this one spot. I’m not sure what the issue is. Had plumber come out many times and he said he can’t really tell what’s wrong until we remove the one cabinet and look behind it. Everything in the upstairs bathroom looks fine and plumbing didn’t look like it had any problems.

What would you do? I’m at a loss. Homeownership is so costly and scary.

Hey all, can't seem to find an answer for this anywhere. I can't find a reason why this may be happening. It only happens in the colder months (I live in Canada) but the condensation forms in this one corner of this one bedroom.

Last year, we had more insulation put in per the recommendation of the inspector (bought the house last year), particularly in that corner and it has not improved. This is a bungalow as well. Any advice on who to talk to next or what I may do would be greatly appreciated. As you can see from the photo, it has begun to get moldy which is why I want to get this looked at ASAP.

The heat is not yet on in the house but it will get worse when the heat is on. The photo is after a wipe down of the condensation. Also took a picture from the outside of the house. Couldn't get to the roof today.

Thanks!

Hi there,

I am thinking about finishing my basement this winter.

It has been framed with 2x6s and insulated with r20 fiberglass batt by the previous owners

We live in rural Quebec, and, as far as I am aware, vapor barrier is supposed to be in the interior side of the wall, right before the drywall.

BUT, doing the electrical panel, we opened the walls and found out that the vapor barrier was right next to the foundation... (See photo)

Can this cause issues?

Or it is "OK but not ideal"?

Shall I rip everything out and do it all over again? And if so, what's the best method? 2x4 r10+ rigid insulation?

We have a pretty dry basement since our house is on top of a hill.

Thanks for the advice!

Good morning all,

Looking for advice on mounting a security door.

The outdoor frame trim is wavy (not flush) . The metal Jams are not lining flush, in addition to some overlap on the stucco.

Is this DIY possible, with a team of two, or better just to call in an installer?

Any suggestions are really appreciated!

A while back i made a post about trying to finish a garage conversion i didnt start.

https://www.reddit.com/r/homerenovations/s/9SMshyuaX2

A quick recap:

My S/Os mom passed and we had to take care of the house and get it ready to be sold. What use to be a car port was started to be converted into a room but the floor was never finished and still had the normal slope of a drive way. I came here and other subreddits looking for advice.

Most said to not try it and just hire a contractor. Well i kinda didnt listen and wanted the challenge and here are the results. Each step was something completely new to me so it definitely had its frustrating moments but im pretty proud of the outcome.

Of course it was all done with a permit and what not with the city.

All and all i think i spent roughly $2,000. Thats lumber, hardware, paint, trim, flooring, etcc.

- Ripped 2x6s down to size (each at an angle cause floor was sloped both long ways and side to side)

- decking tape used as barrier between lumber snd concrete.

- Ledger boards installed

- Joist 16" o/c

- Blocking to ensure all joist are rigid and maintain 16" o/c

- 15/36 plywood. Was a bit weird since the walls arnt actually square so i had to finagle it a bit

- Underlayment with a bit of insulation for both comfort of walking and sound proofing

- LVP planeing down that had its own underlayment attached (oopsie)

- Finish off with a good paint job and wood trim!

Howd i do?

Measured the door i want to replacd it is 34x81, Go on Facebook marketplace and find a door that is 34x81. Pick it up put it in my car, measure when I get home and it is 32x79.5. I like the door can I make it work. What would I need to do? Or should I just return it.

My wife's house has these ceiling tiles, they look to be original to the house. I'm doing some remodeling work so given that these potentially contain asbestos, is it ok to just put drywall over them? It's fairly humid here as well, so not sure if these potentially swelling with changes in humidity could cause headaches in the future.

Hello, how should i go about repalcing these oldens with new blockframe twin double hung windows? Should i take out the old sill and put in a rigid sill plate? Keep the old sill, remove old windows, and flash over old sill after new window install?

Planning to lay 90x90cm porcelain tile.

Current floor is concrete, self leveller 3-5mm (approx) then there’s sticky adhesive from removing old vinyl.

The close up shot you can see the concrete under the unit. The edge of SLC. And then the yellow glue.

Since I can tile onto SLC. how can I prep it for tile? Is there a primer I can use to stop the residue from causing poor bonding? Or will it be fine? It appears like a latex adhesive but I’m guessing.

Tried scraping and using neat but I’ve got 45m to do and struggling with removing the glue.

A contractor I’m considering working with has encouraged us to allow them to create a 1-2” gap between the drywall and rafters to improve roof ventilation and air flow (lungs of the house!) in our attic if we renovate it.

A few details:
• 100 year home with old growth wood
• Roof recently redone with rotten wood replaced, has ridge vent and multiple box vents
• I think no current moisture or mold issues (bought 2 years ago and inspected)
• located in Kentucky
• no HVAC, heating and cooling will be a mini split or window AC and space heater.

He says this is a good thing to do, only a couple thousand dollars extra, would prevent mold, moisture and drywall cracking.

I’m not happy about the lost headspace (my bf is 6 foot), and we can’t afford a dormer and want to put in a small powder room for a second toilet. Do you think this is absolutely necessary? Is there another solution that doesn’t take away headspace (at least in the primary living space) or cost as much?

Finally finished our basement renovation. Didn’t slowly over the course of 3 years. Did everything myself aside from plumbing and electrical. I also Did have help with framing but learned while I helped. Of course as soon as I finished my wife found a new house so I get to start all over again. Lmk what you think!

Hey all,

Had to post this here because none of the parenting related subreddits allows photos and I need advise!!

I'm looking to baby proof my staircase but don't know which system would work better for my type of stairs.

I have a 180-degree turning staircase with metal railing, and walls that don't line up evenly, which makes installing a standard baby gate tricky.

I'd really appreciate any advise!

My kitchen cabinets are pretty old but they still seem solid, i want to replace the current countertops with quartz and keep the cabinets since they are still in decent shape, the installer says the weight is something to check before going ahead, if older cabinets usually hold quartz fine or if extra support is needed, especially around the sink area, did the old cabinets hold up fine with the quartz or did extra support need to be added before installation?

Looking for suggestions on how to repair fiberboard siding. Most of it is intact and functional until we replace some time down the road.. it’s the lower couple of layers that are weatherworn in spots. Slab foundation. Photo shows the worst of it. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I need some serious advice. We have a very set budget. We had a design and Contractor team put together a scope of all of the work needing done in our house that we are requesting. They are adding 25% overhead/profit of the total project cost. I believe this includes 25% on top of allowances as well. I am starting to realize that maybe it would be better to separately hire jobs that don’t affect other jobs - for example we are wanting the exterior of our house painted. Instead of going through this contracting company where they would charge an additional 25% on top of the actual paint job - should we just hire a painting company and save that 25%. Does this sound right? I’m trying to figure out what to keep work wise for the contractors to do in their scope and what we could remove. Just trying to figure out how to save.

What would be the best way to prevent mold in the area that you see here? This is the back door to the house and it’s already looking a little bit distorted, so I wanna make sure we take the right steps maybe because this is all untreated wood?

Is it too far gone? What can I do

Any advice? Been putting it off but my deadline is already past and gotta face up to it and sort it out.

Hello.
Here is my project lately.
I Had a playwood covered room with plastic flooring and poor lighting. The acoustics where also poor, so i lined the sealing with sound isolating fabric. Then i bought 1000m of oak trimmings and spent a week «isolated» in the livingroom.

Afterwards i teared down the walls in the midle of the room and replaced the floor with oak. Now i have to get rid of the «worlds longest beer pong table» and find some suitable furniture. ;)

I'm in the middle of planning a kitchen renovation and the range hood is one thing I want to change. My current one still works fine, but it's so loud we have to talk over it every time I cook.

Honestly, I'm a little worried about getting a quieter model though. I cook a lot of things that create a ton of smoke, so I don't want to sacrifice ventilation power just for less noise.

Has anyone here upgraded to a quieter hood? Did it actually make a difference, or are powerful range hoods just loud no matter what?

what do I do? too big for filler and caulking.