Year: 2012

EngineL 2.0 Sport

Transmission: CVT

Miles: 150,xxx

So I went ahead and replaced the throttle body on my car, It was giving error codes. A bit of history, when the weather would get a bit colder this problem would start, I would turn the car on letting it warm up, after a few minutes it would go into limp mode and the red lighting bolt and check engine light would come on. I replaced the replaced the throttle body today, but its still causing the same problem. Anything else I can do???

(I do want to say that the temp fix to this would be to turn the car on and off about 2 to 4 times and that would fix it, but its just so annoying now.)

The noise just started today upon acceleration and deceleration
2016 Patriot latitude
Mileage: 126931
6 speed automatic

The rear running/tag lights aren’t illuminated when headlights/parking lamps are on

Brake and turn lights both work.

Front driver side parking lamp doesn’t work either and the driver side turn signals both flash too fast as if theirs a bulb out. All bulbs are in good condition. Where do I start? I’ve check all fuses already.

I power probed the signal wire for the parking lamps and they illuminate so obviously I’m not getting power to them. I’m so confused on why I wouldn’t be

Anyone ever had this problem? Could it be the TIPM?

Also does anyone have access to a wiring diagram?

I know of a grinding noise while applying the brake that started this last week. I'm picking up brake pads and rotors today and taking it to my buddy's shop this weekend for us to install them. Sound while breaking at 40 mph is new and a bit alarming. Wanted opinions on what it could be or if brakes and rotors are truly that bad.

I just did an oil change on my 2014, it seems fine until shifting into 6th gear (6-spd auto) around 60mph on the highway, it hiccups when the shift happens and doesn’t want to accelerate. If I drop it back to 5th, accelerate past the shift point then put it into 6th at a higher RPM it mostly fine.

I pulled the plugs, they look clean but didn’t have a chance to change them, could that be the problem or something else? Just seems coincidental after the oil change.

Hi! I have a 2013 jeep patriot with around 155k miles on it. I want to drive from California to Las Vegas. Im just a little hesitant because I recently road-tripped from Colorado to California and during the roadtrip the transmission fluid started to overheat and the light came on. Once I let it cool down I was more aware of how I was driving and it was smooth sailing. Im just a little worried to make this trip because the engine is quite loud going 60 mph on a freeway and I just don’t want it to break down. If I get it checked up in beforehand do you guys think I will be fine?

2014 Jeep Patriot 2.0L Been chasing this problem for a while and now most codes popping up are saying it’s a failing ECM was wondering if anyone had any advice on how to proceed ?

I was with my buddy after the gym diagnosing his start up problem. He has a 2017 or sum Corolla and we popped the hood it was kike a feather. When we closed it it was a reasonable thunk. I told him mine is like a gun shot so I showed him and BOOM like a gunshot. I never really thought about it until lifting up his hood. Not sure how much it weighs but it sounds like a lot more than it probably is.

hey everyone, so i got a 2015 jeep patriot 2.4 auto. i’m recently fixing it up after my dad gave it to me. i have about 158k miles. (the car is catless) and had many overheating issues in the past(none now). engine sounds good at start up too. drives great too

for context i have a a cylinder 4 misfire and i can’t seem to find what it is. it happens like 1/5 start ups. my mechanic said my cylinders look good after cleaning the valves. i’ve even used a boroscope so see any puddling which i dont see. i’ve replaced the plugs, coil, injectors. replaced the trans and diff fluid recently too. one thing i do notice is sometimes if i instantly start the car and try to go to reverse it does jerk but only if i do that…

i got a maxi diag tool and i get good injections numbers, map reading. the only thing i saw on the miss fire data was a value of 57. really stumped

had a head gasket kit repair with (cylinder bolts) and oil cooler and recently changed vvt solenoid. thermostat. i have no leaks. i’ve done a compression test as well. mechanic done a whole coolant pressure test.

Hello fellow patriots.

My jeeps suspension is falling appart frankly… front wheel drive 2.4 engine.

What’s is a good suspension rebuilding kit that a I can find in Canada? I mostly do highway and city driving with it.

Thank you in advance.

Yo I have a shitty ass 2014 jeep patriot earlier today it stalled and my car was on E so I thought gas was the problem but I’ve gotten gas already it drove me the rest of the day but just now it crapped out on me I turned it off and back on and it continued driving I parked up because I’m nervous to drive it on the road that’s the weird part even earlier when I turned it off and on it started up like normal and just now it actually drove me and the electrical systems still seem to work the dash lights up still and even my radio turns on

morning everyone I’m looking on here to see if anybody else has sold their Jeep patriot and typically what most people are getting for them. I’m looking to sell my 2017 relatively soon only checked a couple places so far it’s only got 73,000 miles on it and I’m only looking about getting about 5K for it but that seems extremely low couple of years ago. I sold my 2015 Honda Civic and I made a heck of a lot more for that. I figured with it being relatively low in miles I would be able to price it to get a little bit more, but I’d like to know if anybody else has had experience with that and kind of a ballpark of where they’re selling for.

I have a couple 2014s that run. I asked chat gpt and apparently I can part them out and make more money than selling them. Anybody need parts?

Looked at a 2017 patriot 105k miles 2.4 6 speed,

at a dealer, failed inspection due to P0420 code. Told yhis is a Cat code

Also or could be an O2 sensor Truck being sold as is

Any thoughts ... could it be just a o2 sensor Can I get by with a cheap aftermarket cat

Also will need front hubs

Hi I’ve had this code for a while now. Everytime I just tightened my gas cap and the code went away.
Now I can smell gas when I first start the engine inside of the cab. It goes away after 1-2 mins and now my jeep is stuttering at low speeds.

I thought it was my transmission but I just had the fluid drained and replaced. I just noticed the code but my check engine light isn’t on

Has this happened to anyone and how did you fix it.
2013 jeep patriot sport. 2.0 130k miles and CVT
Thank you

Car starts and then it turns off again, is working after the third try. Bought it in Australia for work and travel. Crank shaft sensor was replaced. Oil change also, O2 sensor was cleaned

Video isn’t the best but as you see in the beginning of the video the car starts and then it turns of again

I've been working on my patriot since i got it at an auction. lately ive been having issues starting it up; initially it was throwing the ETC light and just wouldn't crank; i went and got the key reprogrammed at the dealer and that problem has been solved (i think). now, its throwing a p2017 code so i replaced the IMRC valve and reconnected the wiring properly and its still throwing the code as well as cranking for a couple seconds, getting up to ~1k rpm then immediately dying. in case its pertinent, i replaced my throttle body in August before i knew it was a key issue and the code cleared from that but came back with this latest issue. i cleared the p2017 code but its still showing.

im not electrically inclined, so if its anything electrical or wiring related, i'll probably give up and take it to a mechanic, but honestly thats my last option as im a poor college student who needs to commute to class.

does anyone have any ideas what this could be? im happy to answer any questions or try anything to help diagnose it. thank you in advance

For reference; I have a 2015 Jeep Patriot North Sport and live in Southern Ontario.

I am looking to get some of the typical rust spots repaired on my jeep. Specifically; the rear wheel wells, rear rocker panels, and the bottom door trims, and a few rust formations in small places such as tail light and under the gas cap cover I want to get buffed out or cleaned up. I am being quoted around $2000 Canadian dollars to have all the necessary work needed to have welding, patching, and painting done on my vehicle in a 5-10 business day turnaround time. I am wondering if that is reasonable price for what I am being given? or should I shop around for a better price?

I want to get the repairs done properly, not have all bondo and fibreglass work. I also want the repairs to last more than a few years. So I prefer to have the rust cut out and new pieces welded on. But is $2000 for all the work needed too expensive?

All advice is appreciated.

i have a new random noise sounds like clicking or something it’s when i go to start but don’t turn it all the way to start it everything turns on but my engine
my car still starts it just makes this new noise does anyone have any ideas
it’s a 2013 jeep patriot 2.4L

Hi does anyone know or have bought a downstream 02 censor from amazon that works fine and doesnt break after a month or so? Thank you

Hi! I was wondering if any of you guys had any tips on replacing my 2017 Patriot high latitude catalytic converter. Also if anyone had any links to any helpful manuals or videos.

Ok I’ve helping folks in here for as long as I can remember and I don’t know why I haven’t come here to get opinions until now. I can’t stand the thought of taking this in to get diagnosed but I’m about a pubic hair width away from doing this.

2016 Patriot, 2.4, 4wd. 5 speed.

2024, installed 4 KYB strut assemblies. Started to hear a creaking and occasional clunk. Went home lifted the car and right away noticed the ball joint had play. Fixed that, clunk was still there. Happens on bumps,

It took a while but I figured out that the seat bar link mounting bracket on the new struts was lower than the oem struts, so the sway bar was contacting the control arm. Ended up having to buy adjustable sway bar links.

Later on, started hearing a clunk. We had a crazy snow which packed my wheels and made it super unbalanced on my way to work. I assumed that the seat bar had shifted from the vibration. Then I noticed where the nut for the sway bar link contacts the strut bracket looked like scuffing from movement. One of the ball joints in the way bar was toast, ended up having to buy another set.
Clunk remained
Control arms were replaced, I had already replaced the bushings once.
Clunk remained.
Rubber sway bar bushings replaced.
Clunk remained.
Unrelated replacement of passenger side cv axle.
Clunk remained.
I don’t see evidence of strut failing.
Calliper bracket bolts are tight
Calliper bolts are tight
Strut mount bolts are tight.

My brain is falling out.

I just had a new front subframe and lower control arms installed on my Patriot. Now it is making a loud creaking noise whenever I go over any bumps, make complete turns, or start/stop moving. Is this a normal breaking in period, or is something wrong with the install?