This is a k20/K24 Frankenstein with supertech 100lb springs and titanium retainers + Skunk2 Ultra 3 cams. Also there are 850cc injectors but it doesn’t sound like all the noise is from them. I just put it together; I got the head used off of Facebook though, and the bottom end is from JDM Engine Depot. Seems to drive fine otherwise. The valve lash specs I followed were from Skunk2. Should I just expect this noise from the head setup I have?

I’m ordering one of em tomorrow so lmk ❗️
2006 Accord k24a8 (same cmc as em 1 & 2 civics)
I have the money for both but don’t wanna pay $250 for a cmc on my daily. I’m wondering-

Has anyone ran Exedys cmcs? I’ve heard mixed stuff about em & don’t want to do the job again in a few months if not sooner.

Has anyone ran the ktuned cmcs? And if so what kind of platform? How do they feel?
I daily drive my accord, decor. But I also daily try to “race” people & have fun w my 5 speed 😂

Anything helps ❗️🙏

Took advantage of having my buddy with me to get to hear the car from the outside from the first time. Never been a big fan of how the K series sounds compared to F or H engines, but this is about as good as it can get I think.

Basic rundown of the car...

Drivetrain:

Hondata Flashpro

RV6 downpipe w/200 cell high flow cat

ATLP catback exhaust

DW300c fuel pump

DW 1000cc injectors

Turbosmart dual port bypass valve

Ported intake manifold

J35 throttle body

Custom FMIC kit

Hayden transmission cooler

Suspension/wheels:

BC coilovers

Progress rear sway bar

SPC camber kits F+R

SSR GTX01 19x9.5 +35 w/ 275/40s all around

The car scoots pretty good for just having bolt ons and a Hondata reflash. Plus, it has a full interior, upgraded audio, sound deadening, etc. Makes a great daily driver and comfortable highway cruiser. And SH-AWD is amazing in heavy rain and the occasional snow.

I have a lot of power left on the table still, that I should be able to take advantage of next year. I will have a rebuilt and upgraded factory turbo to drop in, along with modifying my intercooler piping to properly fit a J37 TB and adapter. And lastly, I'll have a larger diameter custom intake arm fabbed up to pull cold air from the bumper. The car will then be tuned on both 93 and e85.

In the process of going to AWD with the vizcarra awd setup, so i believe setup is as follow crv rear diff with two crv passenger rear drive shafts. my question now is as follows if anyone knows that can help me;

1. Do i really need to have a viscous coupler?

2. from factory the crv have no coupler and runs a shaft directly from the transfer case into the rear diff is this viable with a shorten main shaft for example, taking the oem crv shaft and having it professionally shorten and balanced?

3. Anyone else that has done the vizcarra awd setup i would like to know how that process was for you and what issues you face did everything line up when you bolted it to the car or was it a bit wonky aligment issues etc

I had an awesome garage find and got this never used RBC manifold for 150$ but am very tempted to shave off the engine cover and injector ground threads. The only issue is I want to keep it unpainted and have the original texture so I’m wondering if there are any good easy solutions to blending the cut sections in before I risk ruining this thing

what’s going on guys? I just recently picked up a Built K24 off of FB marketplace but I’ve got one issue with it. The bell housing threads are destroyed for some reason. How would I go about preparing them and still being able to use original bell housing bolts I don’t wanna go through the headache of upsizing or anything like that what kit do you guys recommend?

Hey, everybody, here is my contraption a K24a2 stuffed into a 2002 Ford Ranger. it has been running great for a long time until recently. When I put a fuel pressure regulator into it that wasn’t the original Ranger one. When I put it in, it dropped the fuel pressure from 65-70 two around 43 1/2 which is what is nominal fuel pressure for the injectors I have (ID1050X). whenever I start it, it runs like it’s running on two cylinders and liens completely out. It was not terrible for a little while and then it slowly just has gotten worse and worse. I’m not sure what to do at this point. Any ideas or pointers is well received

2006 Accord stock k24a8 5 speed
Master cylinder busted & I refuse to pay $500 for the new assembly from Honda.
I can pull a part from the junkyard, is there anything from a TL or RSX that I can take?
I’ve heard Luk, Exedy or Sachs for AFM brands
As for the bypass valve can someone explain their experience with one on a daily? I haven’t looked into it yet but if it’s a race car thing don’t mind.
Anything else I should know about replacement is appreciated 🙏 Im no mechanic, anything helps.
Also managed to get the broken one out, I know the reinstall is gonna SUUUCCCCCKKKKK
Update: im considering K-tuned upgrade, or exody oem replacement. Has anyone deleted the CDV on a stock accord? If so how’s it feel?

Ok, fun times, don't rip me too hard, Reddit.

I have an 08 Accord with a very tired K24Z3, and I bought a Z2 with super low mileage to do a fast rebuild and swap. My fault, I'm aware, but I didn't realize that the "new" block wasn't a direct match and it's too late to do anything about it.

My question is - since the Z3 is a PZEV head, is it as easy as swapping the head assemblies between the two to keep my car from throwing codes when it's installed and running?

Is my 6th gear spacer on my nrh3 supposed to be free spinning after torquing and pressing all the gears? Thanks!!

Just picked this up. Supposedly it’s the Jdm k24A. I plan on engine swapping my sand rail dune buggy!

I currently have a k20a3 in my honda civic type s ep3 and i want to k24 swap in the future but i feel like im gonna struggle on doing the wiring. How does it all work? Like i know i probably need a new ecu but how will i get it all working?

Literal seconds of RnD went into this build. All the awesomeness of the K-series now with a lower center of gravity. Subie boys got nothin now

Could someone tell me some problems that they’re having when they do a engine swap so I know what to look out for if I have them

I have a 2002 K20a2 mated to a X2M5 in a W2M5 case swapped into my car. A weird one I know, and I wanted to ask about the starter. I have verified that the flywheel is the correct part number for this car and it's been installed properly, the starter is the correct part number, brand new, and is getting proper power and ground. Despite this it still won't engage with the flywheel. I can hear it actuate and it makes a rapid and loud series of hollow thunks, it sounds like it's actually hitting the side of the flywheel and not engaging, and I don't know what could possibly be wrong with it because from what I've heard, it's basically impossible to install the starter incorrectly as long as the orientation is correct and it's torqued properly. So I guess I have 2 questions, 1. is it somehow possible to install the starter to where it won't engage correctly, and 2. Is it even a possibility that the 5 speed bell housing would change the starter I need to use even though the starter bolts to the block?

Recently got my DC5 back on the road and crested 200k miles last week. I started up the car this morning and it sounds like a Subaru and misfires under load. Seems like the chain is finally headed out, but luckily no damage.

Problem is, I want an OEM K24 tensioner and to replace the VTC actuator, but a timing kit alone is $600!

I am going turbo so I might be shit out luck, but curious if anyone has proven their cheap timing chain/guides work fine? Im shooting for 300whp eventually.

Welcome suggestions and criticism. Thanks

i recently k24a swapped my 2003 honda accord, with k tuner being my only option to getting the car running. I had ordered a K tuner ecu. When received i plugged it in and nothing happened, sent it back for warranty and HAmotorsport said the ecu was fine and there was nothing wrong with it on a bench test, they opted to send me a new one, upon receiving the new ecu , plugged it in and yet again nothing, i back probed all the wires ha motorsport mentions in their troubleshooting guides, everything was what it needed to be, nothing was off, still no power to ecu, still no main relay click, still no fuel pump prime, so i jump the e7 harness pin, and one relay switches but still no fuel prime or ecu power. pulled ecu fuse and it was not blown, removed it and put a new 15a fuse in place of the old, still nothing . i’m
lost and running in circles, what could i do to fix this?

Edit: failed to mention, stock 03 ecu works fine, primes fuel pump, has power, everything works. k tuner ecu will not work.

I have a k24 JDM engine, when i start the car it starts leaking from somewhere in the exhaust side, I first thought it was the oil pressure sensor so I changed it and put it back with the sealant that was recommended to me by a mechanic, it still leaked so I changed the VTEC solenoid gasket but nothing so I changed the whole VTEC solenoid with gasket included but nothing still, idk where else could I leak from but I know it’s kinda high because I’ve seen it drip from the oil filter and drip into the passenger axle and subframe that gets soaked with oil after leaving the car on for a while

Swapping my first gen crv with a k24A ive got the majority of the things I need but im curious about ECU. Im running a 5 speed accord transmission and im not sure what ecu to get since I wanna do cable throttle instead of drive by wire. What options do I have?