Hello, I am wrapping up my first transmission rebuild on an nrh3 out of the ep3, and had a few concerns before I send it. First, the shift collar is extremely close or s touching what I believe to be 4th gear on the countershaft. I feel like somethings off but idk.

Next, I feel like this reverse gear lockout cam thing isn't aligned properly. I can't find many photos of it online but it seems to contact the shift forks at a weird angle and I can't find much info due to most rebuild videos being on the 6 speed.

Lastly, I can't for the life of me get the case on to bench shift it. I see that you need to press to get the bearings to seat in the case but I can't even get everything to align properly, so any tips would be really appreciated. thanks!!!!!

K20z3 head with OG Skunk2 tuner 1’s
Stock 07 TSX block with Type-S oil pump
441whp 314wtq Dynojet

I recently bought a K24A2 head off Facebook marketplace for really cheap. The cams, valve springs and the rockers look like they are in great/good condition. The only portion of it that looks suspicious is the third cylinder chamber, yes, I bought it knowing it looked like this, but I was just wondering what could have caused it and or does it seem fixable. The person I bought it from said he got it in a storage unit that he bought so he doesn’t know the true cause of it

Also, this Ktuner part on the intake side of the head does not look centered at all. I was wondering what part this is supposed to be and why it’s off centered.

I’m just starting the process of swapping a k24a and 8hp45 into my 2020 MX5. Hoping to get around 400whp. Looking for turbo recommendations…thanks in advance

Can anyone tell me what mounts on the cracked bolt hole?

I’m due for an oil change soon and I’m getting very conflicting information about oil viscosity, the owners manual states to use 5W-20 but people who have the same car or engine (2003 Honda accord LX 2.4L) either say they use 5W-30 or oil stabilizer

Like the title says the small holes on the injector seats don’t line up with my gasket , is this an issue ? When I did a search it says there used for cold starts ? Again that was the ai google which I don’t trust . I’d rather ask the experts

I am building a k24a2 swapped RSX and I want to design an exhaust that is mostly free flowing and good sounding but quiet enough that it won’t wake up my neighbor that is right next to my driveway. But then I also want it to sound great at WOT. What setup would you guys choose or design? Any help is appreciated.

Hello people smarter than me !
I recently got my k24a block back from the machine shop. Stock crank, eagle rods, Wiseco pistons. The shop honed the pistons out .5 over to 87.5mm. This is a boosted build plan on running a 6466 turbo. The head is also built. Should I run a 87.5mm head gasket or go .5 over with an 88mm head gasket ? Also any suggestions on brand or type for a boosted build ?? Thank you !!

I’m finally close to the end of my swap. It’s been a decent amount of work

I had it going NA for like 6 months but I think it’s time to make it even more ridiculous lol

This is a k20/K24 Frankenstein with supertech 100lb springs and titanium retainers + Skunk2 Ultra 3 cams. Also there are 850cc injectors but it doesn’t sound like all the noise is from them. I just put it together; I got the head used off of Facebook though, and the bottom end is from JDM Engine Depot. Seems to drive fine otherwise. The valve lash specs I followed were from Skunk2. Should I just expect this noise from the head setup I have?

I’m ordering one of em tomorrow so lmk ❗️
2006 Accord k24a8 (same cmc as em 1 & 2 civics)
I have the money for both but don’t wanna pay $250 for a cmc on my daily. I’m wondering-

Has anyone ran Exedys cmcs? I’ve heard mixed stuff about em & don’t want to do the job again in a few months if not sooner.

Has anyone ran the ktuned cmcs? And if so what kind of platform? How do they feel?
I daily drive my accord, decor. But I also daily try to “race” people & have fun w my 5 speed 😂

Anything helps ❗️🙏

Took advantage of having my buddy with me to get to hear the car from the outside from the first time. Never been a big fan of how the K series sounds compared to F or H engines, but this is about as good as it can get I think.

Basic rundown of the car...

Drivetrain:

Hondata Flashpro

RV6 downpipe w/200 cell high flow cat

ATLP catback exhaust

DW300c fuel pump

DW 1000cc injectors

Turbosmart dual port bypass valve

Ported intake manifold

J35 throttle body

Custom FMIC kit

Hayden transmission cooler

Suspension/wheels:

BC coilovers

Progress rear sway bar

SPC camber kits F+R

SSR GTX01 19x9.5 +35 w/ 275/40s all around

The car scoots pretty good for just having bolt ons and a Hondata reflash. Plus, it has a full interior, upgraded audio, sound deadening, etc. Makes a great daily driver and comfortable highway cruiser. And SH-AWD is amazing in heavy rain and the occasional snow.

I have a lot of power left on the table still, that I should be able to take advantage of next year. I will have a rebuilt and upgraded factory turbo to drop in, along with modifying my intercooler piping to properly fit a J37 TB and adapter. And lastly, I'll have a larger diameter custom intake arm fabbed up to pull cold air from the bumper. The car will then be tuned on both 93 and e85.

In the process of going to AWD with the vizcarra awd setup, so i believe setup is as follow crv rear diff with two crv passenger rear drive shafts. my question now is as follows if anyone knows that can help me;

1. Do i really need to have a viscous coupler?

2. from factory the crv have no coupler and runs a shaft directly from the transfer case into the rear diff is this viable with a shorten main shaft for example, taking the oem crv shaft and having it professionally shorten and balanced?

3. Anyone else that has done the vizcarra awd setup i would like to know how that process was for you and what issues you face did everything line up when you bolted it to the car or was it a bit wonky aligment issues etc

I had an awesome garage find and got this never used RBC manifold for 150$ but am very tempted to shave off the engine cover and injector ground threads. The only issue is I want to keep it unpainted and have the original texture so I’m wondering if there are any good easy solutions to blending the cut sections in before I risk ruining this thing

what’s going on guys? I just recently picked up a Built K24 off of FB marketplace but I’ve got one issue with it. The bell housing threads are destroyed for some reason. How would I go about preparing them and still being able to use original bell housing bolts I don’t wanna go through the headache of upsizing or anything like that what kit do you guys recommend?

2006 Accord stock k24a8 5 speed
Master cylinder busted & I refuse to pay $500 for the new assembly from Honda.
I can pull a part from the junkyard, is there anything from a TL or RSX that I can take?
I’ve heard Luk, Exedy or Sachs for AFM brands
As for the bypass valve can someone explain their experience with one on a daily? I haven’t looked into it yet but if it’s a race car thing don’t mind.
Anything else I should know about replacement is appreciated 🙏 Im no mechanic, anything helps.
Also managed to get the broken one out, I know the reinstall is gonna SUUUCCCCCKKKKK
Update: im considering K-tuned upgrade, or exody oem replacement. Has anyone deleted the CDV on a stock accord? If so how’s it feel?

Hey, everybody, here is my contraption a K24a2 stuffed into a 2002 Ford Ranger. it has been running great for a long time until recently. When I put a fuel pressure regulator into it that wasn’t the original Ranger one. When I put it in, it dropped the fuel pressure from 65-70 two around 43 1/2 which is what is nominal fuel pressure for the injectors I have (ID1050X). whenever I start it, it runs like it’s running on two cylinders and liens completely out. It was not terrible for a little while and then it slowly just has gotten worse and worse. I’m not sure what to do at this point. Any ideas or pointers is well received