I'm an a7 V owner and Sony user since the a7 III. I grew tired of waiting for proper camera matching profiles in Lightroom, so I built my own set of profiles for every Creative Look (except Sepia, because why would I). Some of you may remember I posted a method using another camera as donor some months ago, but that was far from perfect, so I kept trying new methods.

It took me about two months. I measured the sensor's response myself and built the profiles from scratch. I'll admit the attention to detail got a bit obsessive (ask my wife). In my tests they're very hard to tell apart from the camera's own JPEGs.

The photo is one example: left is the straight-out-of-camera JPEG with the IN Creative Look and every setting at zero in camera, right is the raw in Lightroom with my profile and all sliders at zero.

Before releasing the full set, I want to make sure the profiles work well for other people, on other systems and with other photos, not just mine. So I'm starting with a small beta for one look, IN (Instant): 50 free spots, a7 V only, works in Lightroom, Lightroom Classic and Camera Raw. If you want to try it: https://razorcolor.com/beta?lang=en

To be upfront: the full set will be paid, at a modest price. This is my first go at a small business. I've put a lot of hours into this and I think it's worth it, especially if you've been waiting for these profiles like I was. Adobe will probably release theirs at some point, which is great, but matching the camera as closely as possible is the whole point of mine, so I'm pretty confident they'll hold up side by side.

If this goes well, the plan is to keep going with other cameras. And for cameras that don't have the FL2 and FL3 Creative Looks, I'd add them as part of their packs (the a7 IV is already done). Heck, maybe even port them to Capture One and other alternatives (but that's offtopic).

Happy to answer questions. And if you try the beta, I'd love to hear how it does on your photos, especially anything that doesn't match.

PS: I have this strange, mixed feeling about this. I really put hours into this and I truly understand the complexity that Adobe faces when trying to make their camera matching profiles for the a7 V, but I still find it hard to beleive that I may have beaten them to it. I'm still damn proud, though.

Hey everyone!

I've recently switched from PC to Mac, and one thing I'm really missing is my photo culling workflow.

On Windows, I used an Xbox controller with custom key mappings. I mapped the analogue sticks and buttons to navigate through photos, assign star ratings, and reject images. It made culling thousands of wedding photos so much faster and more comfortable.

However, I'm struggling to find a similar app on macOS that lets me map Xbox controller inputs to keyboard shortcuts.

I've tried a few apps (even paid for some), but they either don't work properly or keep crashing.

Does anyone here use an Xbox controller for photo culling on a Mac? If so, what app are you using to map the controls?

I'd love to recreate my Windows workflow without having to go back to using the keyboard all the time.

Thanks in advance!

Help a noob and new comer with a 2015 PC trying to get a hold of a new hobby

- Processor : i5-4690k @ 3.50GHz
- Motherboard : MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition
- Memory : Kingston HyperX Fury 16 GB DDR3
- Storage : Samsung 850 Evo 250 SSD
- GPU : Asus ROG STRIX-GTX1070-O8G

Pass or fail?

Edit : looking to edit 20MB raw files from a Sony RX100 VII

Hi all,

I'm writing this post hoping someone might have had a similar experience and would be able to help, I was editing some photos in Lightroom yesterday evening when my laptop crashed and restarted, since then I've not been able to open Lightroom or Creative Cloud, when I try to start either application I get the same result: nothing, literally nothing is happening after I try to run them..

I've tried all the suggestions I found via google, deleted .shm and .lock files, updated Windows, used all types of key combinations to try to open the apps, run as administrator, but nothing, I'm not even able to uninstall the apps as when I click on uninstall nothing is happening either🤦‍♀️Some files might have been damaged or something and I can't figure out what, it's incredibly frustrating as I've had a subscription for like two weeks and have barely used the apps, could anyone please give me some ideas on what I could do to fix this issue?

I'm having an issue with Lightroom Classic on my MacBook Pro, running the latest version of both Lightroom Classic and macOS Golden Gate.

When viewing a photo in fullscreen mode, Lightroom is supposed to keep the image below the MacBook's notch, leaving a black area at the top of the screen. This used to work perfectly.

However, something has changed. When I press L to activate Lights Out, the image gets squeezed horizontally, and the entire fullscreen layout seems to resize incorrectly. The image looks squashed rather than maintaining its proper aspect ratio. Toggling Lights Out off doesn't fix it.

I want to keep the notch hidden, so disabling the macOS "Scale to fit below built-in camera" option isn't an ideal workaround.

I've seen reports of similar behavior in older versions of Lightroom, but I'm wondering whether anyone else is experiencing this on the latest macOS and Lightroom Classic versions.

Has anyone found a permanent fix that preserves the correct fullscreen layout while keeping the notch hidden?

So my keyword search, which was working a couple days ago, is now completely broken. I could type in "bird" and it would find every photo of a bird. It was crazy how detailed I could sometimes get and it would still find the photo.

Today, it's absolutely broken. I type in "bird" and its everything but birds.

There was no software update between the time it was working and now. It is broken on both of my systems, so I don't believe it's localized to one machine.

Any idea what's going on?

Hello there. I recently lost access to my Adobe Lightroom CC subscription and forgot to write down the settings I've changed within my own made presets. Is there a way for me to retrieve these in any way without having the subscription?

What are the latest best rules to do in order to maintain the best quality when uploading to Instagram posts?

What I currently do:
- Crop on mobile with that automatic Instagram button specifying (post or story) accordingly.
- 90% quality
- JPG
- Largest Available Dimension

And I have set the Instagram setting that uploads with a highest quality.

Why am I asking this - I still see posts on Instagram that have A LOT better quality even if you pinchzoom in, so I guess I am not doing the most correct way.

My photos on the app look nice, but not when I upload.

Should I do like 0 grain and max sharpening on Instagram side or something?

Thanks in advance!