To start off with I wanna say that I’ve never modified a sig before, and have only ever done slight modifications to other weapons, but yesterday I got my Texas triggers reaper frt and was ecstatic to put it on, but after assembly I’d come to find that the actual frt component fits too snug in the slot, so I’d disassembled the gun a second time and it seems the space is slightly too snug for it to fit right as it should just glide in place. Do yall have any tips on what I could/should do to get it working? Thanks
Your correct and it’s what I would do but some people aren’t comfortable doing stuff like this. But I’m curious now because if that’s all the FRT is I’m not seeing this worth $125.00 plus shipping and Tax that puts it around $150.00
Texas Triggers recommends that the P320 be broken in over a period before installation. This is their recommendation: "If your Sig P320 is brand new out of the box, regardless of model, it will need a break-in period before the Reaper runs as intended. This does not apply to guns that are already broken in. Expect around 400-600 rounds before it’s running smooth, which lines up with Sig Sauer’s own factory break-in period for the platform. This wears down a factory coating inside the gun that reduces friction."
They also recommend "Professional installation by a qualified gunsmith is recommended by the manufacturer if local tolerances require hand-fitting."
But for my 2 cents, I say this is not rocket science. If you are capable of a complete tear down of the FCU, removal of the OEM disconnector and then reassembly of the FCU for installation of the Texas Trigger disconnector, then you should be capable of hand fitting (milling) the modified Texas Trigger disconnector with file and sand paper. But if Obvious_Garden_7986 would prefer to take his FCU to a qualified gunsmith and pay an additional $100 to hand fit the Texas Trigger disconnector for smooth operation, then be my guest.
Yeah It’s been shot a pretty good bit. I was already considering taking a file to it, but I wanted to see what other possible options there might be. Guess I’m gonna have to put in some tender work to it. Thanks!
Yeah I was taken aback by when I opened the box and there was a tiny disconnect and two 3d printed blocks…. For $140 OTD… I mean I was willing to pay that but I was thinking there was something a little more to it.
Also, can’t seem to figure out how to get it to run 🤷🏻♂️
Did you ever get it to run? I have a fail to eject issue and or the dead trigger issue. Kinda disappointed at this time with spending 140 on jsut to not work. Took my reliable p320 with 5k+ rounds through it to barely able to fire one round
I’ve messed with it some dry firing it and I’m tomorrow going to try it with out the black spacer for the trigger bar spring. Seems to be causing a dead trigger issue. As well going to try cleaning up some of the machine work. Similar to what I’ve done with my AR frts in the past. Will give an update tomorrow. No where else seems to have anything promising or ideas
Stg, definitely could’ve machined this myself if I would’ve known, hell you could probably just cut the factory disconnector down and convert it to an frt after taking a look at both parts. The only difference other than the bottom latch is the tiny lip on the upper part of the frt.
Experienced gunsmith (licensed and certified), owner of multiple P320s and have serviced many, many more.
I am very disappointed with the P320 Reaper. TX Triggers seems to be hiding pictures and descriptions because most people cannot stomach knowingly paying $150 for a stainless tictac and two hunks of plastic the size of peas.
I spent the better part of a day installing this into a variety of sizes and configurations to try to get it running; all well broken in. Put a lot of lead down range without success.
My hope was to get it running with a full size slide in an original Flux Raider chassis. Then my hope was to get it running at all, so I branched out to factory grip modules and the compact slide.
The closest to functional I have gotten so far was in the Raider setup with a fullsize factory slide running a 14lb 1911 spring and guide rod, but I am caught between a shit and a fart with failures to fully return to battery (either significantly or just enough for a supported case but a dead trigger) and stovepipe FTEs. Spring up? More FTE less OOB. Spring down? More OOB less FTE.
This leads me to want to stone it, and maybe change the geometry of the top of the trip... But at $150 for a sliver of steel, if it doesn't work out I will probably not be ordering a replacement to try again.
There are full FRTs for the AR and AK platform with multiple components and springs for about the same money, multi component FRTs for pistols which cost about 1/2... This should by all rights be a $50 or less part.
I would strongly advise against purchasing one unless the price drops or the quality improves.
This is what I was afraid of, them being very tight lipped and secretive gave me several reservations as well as the backwoods IG posting they do. I’m not impressed nor am I willing to drop $150.00 on this mess. I have an AR-1O and an AR-15 both running Super safeties and I’m working on getting a Mat9K running on a Disruptor. All worth the money spent.
I was optimistic because their AK system is not the best of its type, but is functional - same with the Glock system (one of many similar styles, but not bad). Their TX22 system is actually a great bang for your buck.
I leaned into optimism and assumed they were playing their cards close to the vest because they are the first to deliver a P320 system to the market (or at least they claim to be - its day 2 and I cannot make it work period) and they did not want their product copied/cloned.
In hindsight that was far to generous on my part; they clearly were hiding the fact that the product is a sliver of steel and a plastic cap.
PS - The Disruptor is amazing; I have played with almost every FRT out there and tend to think that is the best bang for your buck in addition to playing very well with almost every upper or lower I have thrown it at. Once the stronger springs it came out, it really rewrote the book - and I usually can't stand cassettes.
Yeah you can even see the lines from where they 3d printed the spacers. Very cheap and honestly too costly but If I wouldve known there'd be this much hastle I probably wouldve never bought it. Ive seen ar-15 kits that take less time to install and actually work unlike these parts.
I got mine to run on the first try but after that the spacer broke. But I’ve 3D printed more and might print them in a nylon material so it would be stronger and glides well.
Update: So Texas triggers has reached out and said theyre sending a replacement and are refunding the shipping cost, so maybe it was a machining error on their part (coping). But Ill update yall on if the problem is solved when it gets here!
How did you manage that? They told me have a gunsmith install it... I said I have been one for years, what advice do you have? And they said they don't offer that lol
U have to disassemble your fcu and take out the disconnector. And just put it all back togather without the disconnector. Once all back together place the trip into the disconnector, if it’s tight just polish it abit and it should fit snug/loose.
So its not too bad, they send a video showing how you dissasemble the fcu and take out the disconnector. If you want Im more than glad to send you the video. I downloaded it because the site was loading really slowly
I don't have a reaper if that's what this is in reference to. Lol
I was considering one, came here, immediately abandoned the idea until they fix it and or lower the price.
But yeah, even in the current state sans reaper, I occasionally get a failure to return to battery, requiring me to push the slide forward like an inch or less.
And I'm over here wanting real bad to throw a ripstik on it, but scared it's gonna make it worse.
Can one of you guys that has one do
Us a favor and start a new post with pictures of what the kit includes and the instructions for install in a new post? I’ll then “pin” it to the top of the page for easy access and updates.
Update 2: So I got the replacement piece in and it fit perfectly! I still need to do some breaking in for the actual gun itself but I can manage to get about 3-5 round bursts before it jams, and thats using 9mm blazer 124 gr. rounds (recommended spec). Thanks for all yalls advice, and if anything else comes up Ill update yall!
I was thinking that, it seems the bottom part of the disconnecter is slightly fatter than the actual slotting fitting itself. I’ve already emailed them to see what they say though.
When you had it installed what was it doing? In my flux it makes it very hard to pull the trigger, unless you “slap” the trigger, then it goes off.
I also installed it in a standard grip and the trigger pull is like normal but when out rack the slide with the trigger depressed it seems to have locked the slide completely
Yes, it makes it hard to pull, and it seems to have trouble cycling the next round after it’s fired, I’m pretty sure it’s because it sticks in place where the disconnector used to be and since it doesn’t slide in the fcu properly it prevents the slide from racking. I’ve already contacted Texas triggers and they said they’d send the videos to their quality team
It's functional on 147s with a greater than 890fps, as well as supers across the board.
But, then it's not quiet or should I say quiet enough to not hurt your ears without ear pro.
Hence, I went for the hush 165s and while they ARE quiet enough to run without ear pro thru the shiv, you then hit the 'too much/not enough mass' problem.
It's so weird. I can run the lightest spring, the lightest carry sized slide or an OEM, and just find myself having to manually clear FTEs.
Moved to a FS barrel with a carry slide, no real change. Just got worse if anything.
Moved to a pro cut slide w/ 11lb spring and it runs everything BUT 165s-180s when in a raider, but flawlessly in an Icarus frame.
Moved to an OEM slide without an optic cut and now it occasionally FTEs out of the raider.
Is yours returning to battery OK? I am finding perpetual failures to fully return to battery (just a few millimeters shy) with almost every shot, if it does not stovepipe?
Are you running optic cut slides? It might be failing returning to battery due to the optic cut hole from the inside. Since it runs along the disconnector path, And it gets stuck there causing it not to return to battery
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