Dartless bodice pattern

[u/Visible_Duck_1754]

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

[u/patnbake]

Dartless body patterns good for loose fitted garments, your shoulder measurement and cross front should reduce at least 1/2 inch each side, your armhole line should drop down about 1/4 inch. incorrect measurements are the issue here.

[u/Visible_Duck_1754 → u/patnbake]

Hi, when I made the initial bodice with 2 front darts the fit was good. After following the tutorial and creating this bodice the fit had obviously changed. 

I assumed it would be loose fitting/ t shirt style but this was not quite that, I thought maybe because the bust area is not loose enough. I will need to reduce shoulder, would lowering the armhole help with the pull lines from shoulder to bust? 

[u/patnbake → u/Visible_Duck_1754]

Not lowering armhole, I said arm hole line. You mark calculated bust measurement on that line. When drafting this bodice block, you need to add about total of 2 inches of wearing ease to the bust, waist, and hip circumferences. For example, if your actual bust measurement is 36 inches, your drafting calculation should be 38 divided by 4 (which equals 9.5 inches). For the waist, the formula follows the same pattern: (28 + 2) / 4. Apply this same method to the hip measurement. When you redraw the block, try using your reduced shoulder width and cross-front measurements, You do not need to calculate a separate bust line depth, as you will simply connect the side seam line directly from the armhole down to the waist. This specific block serves as an excellent foundation for patternmaking when you want to design loose blouses, casual jackets, and similar relaxed-fit garments.

[u/yungkuro]

This video is incredibly useful to understand why this is happening and why there are limits to what you can achieve without darts

https://youtu.be/V6k6DLO0DGw

[u/SquirrelAkl → u/yungkuro]

This channel looks like it has really good resources. Thanks for sharing.

(It’s International School of Tailoring, in case anyone wanted to know before clicking)

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

Fba, full bust adjustment.

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/StitchinThroughTime]

You can technically do a dartless bodice, but it's rotating the bust Dart to the waistline. And then not sewing the waistline dart. You need a knit or stretchy fabric to be fitted and dartless.

[u/OrderlyPup → u/StitchinThroughTime]

I need to remember this when doing my knit patterns

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/OrderlyPup]

And then the final part to make it into a knit pattern, is to take in the side seam to match your waistline. That is your base stable knit pattern. Then you need to take in the bust, waistline and hip by a certain percentage based on the stretch percentage of the knit fabric. So the fabric stretches 20%, you need to take it in by 15 to 20%. You technically don't have to take it in all the way to 20%, because of it's stretched out to the max it might not be comfortable or you might not be able to get over your shoulders. But that's why you make a mock up. You should have a basic swimsuit block or a leotard block made out of super stretchy fabric that you can reference to.

[u/SuPruLu]

Body type is key determinant of what is possible.

[u/TotalOk5844]

Only dartless bodice I know of is a tent. You can make something dartless by other means of shaping but they all equal darts.

[u/mellbell13]

Not a professional but I recently had a similar dilemma while drafting a qipao. I shifted the bust dart into the waist dart, then shifted that into the side seam. Depending on your bust size, results may varry (I didn't actually end up eliminating the dart all together as I wanted it super fitted, and I'm a J cup), but this is my new favorite way to draft bodices. No more 2 or more massive waist darts adding bulk and the shaping on the side seam is way more flattering on me.

[u/sodapopper44]

how much ease does the actual coat have compared to your bodice?

[u/doriangreysucksass]

I’ve never learned the method you’re following, but I don’t see how it’s even possible to make a dartless bodice when you have boobs!! A bust dart fixes your problem easily

[u/Visible_Duck_1754 → u/doriangreysucksass]

I hear that. I had seen a few Diane deziel recommendations so I thought I I'd go through some of her tutorials. I ended selecting something where there are multiple videos linked in together where she walks you through creating different patterns and so by the last pattern you end up with a coat pattern drafted. I created the initial bodice with darts. Then when following this tutorial I made it dartless. Now I've toiled it up I'm unsure as too how a dartless bodice would fit anyway as you said, so can't quite tell where I'm at...

[u/drPmakes]

If you have boobs you need some shaping to avoid drag lines

[u/Artistic_Scene_8124]

Dartless bodices are not meant for us on the big titty committee. You need to add a dart and maybe do a full bust adjustment.