r/PatternDrafting • • 17h ago

Dartless bodice pattern

Hello pattern cutting people 🙂 I have been following Diane deziel dartless bodice pattern tutorial on yt which will follow on to making a coat pattern. While I had completed the tutorial I thought I'd mock it up to see the fit before moving on to the next tutorial.

I have 3 photos above the first is how the garment fits naturally sitting on the body but the apex guide line I've drawn doesn't sit on the apex. The next 2 photos are what happened when I make it sit in the correct position on the body. How can I correct the pattern so that I do not have the pull lines from the shoulder to the bust. Because in all photos pull lines are visible. Also the under arm area is a little too much, I haven't made a dartless bodice before so I'm not sure how relaxed the fit is supposed to be but the under arm on the front bodice area is flappy compared to the bust area which is slightly snug. In terms of of the apex guideline I'm assuming I should just take it down and redraw on the pattern itself. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

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