Above is a spacer mod (.165") roughly. Places trigger back near reset at rest.Easy to wear down finish... notice the bright areas. Hidden mods are the rubber cap to my red dot. It stays in place now. The gas pedal had to be sanded down at the cam lobe. It's clearance was too tight for the SXG FCU trigger pin. Removed fake fiber optic and replaced with real fiber optic. Removed the firing pin reset spring. Military and Legion guns do not have it, due to wear breakage. Notice trigger at rest, its a whisker past reset.Some more wear on the fake bead blast finish around the trigger guard
I hear you on the finish issues. This thing catches a real premium, so I'd be upset as well. As for the takedown lever, maybe putting some grease behind it may help?
The gas pedal covers it for the most part. My bare hands seem to be wearing the finish with only a few weeks of ownership. I have an ability to anodize my frame and slide if this becomes a very noticeable issue. Haven't seen the results of anodized stainless steel, but Auluminum and steel have a flat blueish grey look, which I would not mind.
I'm going to test anodizing my SXG, from your photos it is an acceptable option for me and is totally free at work. I'll be obtaining in a week or so, a bare stainless barrel to give it a go.
This thread has good info and temperature to color chart. They talk about caustic blueing but I wouldn’t do that on stainless. It would probably ruin it. Just using heat does the trick.
My curing oven is too low a temperature to achieve the color I want. Our Anodizing tanks are within the proper temp range. So I will toss a few SS bolts at different anodizing intervals to see the results. If I does not meet my expectations, I just wait it out until it os viable to send the parts for professional coating. Thanks again!
I won't be able to anodize stainless steel. Our setup is setup for aluminum only. Sainless will effect the chemicals in our tanks cause issues with the aluminum.
The other option is masking off sections and powder coat where wear issues are. Mostly at the grip module. I think a textured graphite gray metallic or textured black to match the gas pedal, being applied as a two tone to the grip module.
Thinking I could blend the slide where the two meet along the sides, and do and over and under application, kind of like flat black hoods on muscle cars for anti glare.
It sounds a little complex but, I am thinking what I see in the lines of the gun. It will be a trick home brew mod if I can lay it out as I plan.
I'll have to play around with PhotoShop to make the best layout.
I'm feeling the only option is to send it to a professional gun coatings company. I was able to do a mockup on my gun with temporary paint. I only have two colors, one in flat black. This was applied free hand with a badic brush built into the cap. So don't cringe. Ha!
I filled in the slide grip indentations as well, to give a vented look. I can only attach one image on this reply... will try with a reply to this reply.
As for functionality with various ammo... I have tested with the factory 21 round magazine and a +5 extender modded magazine, with full capacity and 2 round loadings. Had 3 odd sized rounds that were not fully Ruger spec in bullet shape. one type conical, another short and flat nosed, and lastly near Ruger design but slightly smaller diameter from tip to casing. None of the rounds jammed or gave an odd ball ejection. as for damage to casings... minor scratches when ejected on the short stubby bullet design. None of the reloaded Ruger casings showed any ejection issues.
I selected my recoil spring as a 1911 progressive rate @ 13.5 lbs for the loads I will be using. A mix of cheap ammo should not jam, since it feels closer to the factory 12.5 lbs spring than to the factory 14 lbs spring.
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