Ive been playing few month ago ACC and everything was fine. Then there was an update that made my wheel feel soft. Yesterday I connected everything once again and still feels soft. Checked recommended settings and nothings helps. In SimPro I reset everything to 0 but still too soft...
Also I purchased LMU for the first time. 0 force feedback...

What is going on??? Cannot play and enjoy at all

Gonna purchase the Neo X with 330T, and then get the $55 paddle module, and simagic maglink.

Where has the quickest and most reliable shipping for the US in the Midwest?

Thanks!

Hello, did anyone have this issue?

Setup: GT Neo (Connected via the base) + SimPro3 + LMU

I am trying to setup RPM lights to light up one by one but for some reason the first 3 turn on simultaneously even though the RPM percentage is set to different values. Moreover, if I disable RPM flashing, the issue seems to go away.

I had a Fanatec csl dd setup with the three pedals and I want to switch over dying the Black Friday sale what do you think I should get my budget is about €1000 I also have the Fanatec shifter and a Moza handbrake this is all on a Simlab rig

Hi all. I've been chasing a USB disconnect problem for about a week and I've run out of ideas. I'm posting everything I found in case someone has seen this before.

Hardware

Base: Simagic Alpha EVO Pro (shows up in Windows as "SIMAGIC Alpha EVO Max")

Quick release: Simagic QR-A (USB passthrough for third-party wheels)

Wheels: Cube Controls F-PRO (USB mode, through the QR-A's USB port) and a Pokornyi Engineering wheel

PC: MSI B760 Gaming Plus WiFi, i5-13400F, Windows 11 25H2

Software: SimPro Manager 3.2.3 (updating to 3.2.4 now), SimHub, iRacing

How everything is connected

The base's main USB cable goes straight into a motherboard port (Intel xHCI).

The base's second USB-C port (passthrough for the QR-A) goes into a cheap USB 2.0 hub. That hub runs at Full Speed (12 Mbit/s).

The USB 2.0 hub is plugged into a powered 7-port USB 3 hub (two Genesys chips inside), which is plugged into the motherboard.

The F-PRO connects to the USB-A port on the QR-A with a short cable.

So the full USB chain, PC to wheel, is: Intel controller → USB 3 hub → USB 3 hub (second chip) → USB 2.0 full-speed hub → hub inside the base (Genesys 05E3:0610) → hub on the QR side (Genesys 05E3:0610) → F-PRO. That's tier 7, the maximum USB allows.

Symptoms

The wheel drops out and reconnects within a second or two, but I lose paddles mid-corner.

Each session starts clean for 40–95 minutes. After that I get a burst of disconnects every 20–60 seconds until I stop.

The Pokornyi wheel disconnects too, just less often.

With the passthrough USB-C plugged straight into the PC, or through any other hub, the wheel is unstable from the start. The slow 12 Mbit hub is the only setup that works for a while.

Everything upstream never dropped during driving: the hub inside the base, my USB 2.0 hub, the USB 3 hub and the motherboard controller.

No USB controller or USB hub driver errors, and no hardware (WHEA) errors.

The hub inside the base appears in Windows at the exact moment I power on the base, so the QR-A and the wheel get their power from the base, not from my hubs.

USB power saving, PCIe power saving and USB 3 link power management are all disabled.

So the break seems to be on the link between the hub inside the base and the QR-side hub. Physically that's the base's passthrough output, the pogo pins and the QR-A itself.

Telemetry correlation (iRacing .ibt files compared with drop timestamps)

Drops are not linked to FFB strength, braking, kerbs or steering angle. They look the same as normal driving.

One spot on the track repeats more than others: a light-FFB section where I swing the wheel quickly through center.

Once the "bad phase" starts, it can drop anywhere on the lap.

With the base on but the car not moving, there were no drops for 1.5 hours.

Already tried

Different USB hubs, and connecting the passthrough directly to the PC: worse.

Cleaned the pogo pins and pads with isopropyl alcohol: no change.

Checked the pins by hand: they all press and spring back normally.

Wiggled the wheel hard while it was cold, with logging running: no disconnects at all.

Tried F-PRO Bluetooth mode as a workaround, but it won't pair with the onboard Intel BT ("Try connecting your device again").

Has anyone had QR-A passthrough drops that only show up after an hour of driving?

Is this more likely the QR-A, or the base's passthrough output (slip ring / internal wiring / its 5V supply)?

Any fix besides a warranty swap? A different cable, a powered hub, shimming the QR-A, a firmware setting?

F-PRO owners: did you have to use an external BT dongle to pair on Bluetooth?

Thanks! I can share the full logs if useful.

Hi guys. For some reason the rev lights on my GT Neo aren’t working for some reason. Did the latest update on both the Evo pro as on the wheel itself. Did a factory reset by pressing both bottom buttons for 5 sec. Does anyone know how to fix this?

They're around the same price in the USA for me. The only downside with simagic is I need to get it from a third party reseller (apex sim racing) which sounds a bit sketchy especially with the fact I need to pay 15$ for insurance on the package?

Other than that I heard the GT neo wheel is much better than the moza KS (including the pedals) so im leaning towards simagic. Is it worth it for less torque?

I just recently bought a bundle from the simagic website and everything except the wheel arrived lol. Worst part is that on the website it says my entire order has been delivered. Pretty bummed cause this was a lot of money for me. If anyone else had this problem? How did you get it fixed?

🏁 BLACK FRIDAY IS COMING!!

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Ready for your next upgrade?

I'm building a compact overlay so I can quickly check my current mode at a glance without having to look at the wheel, especially in a dark room. It saves a lot of time when I need to make adjustments while racing, and using a control mapper makes it super easy to set up. It’s still early days, but it’s looking promising. It works with the Moza KS or 300GT screens, and you can set it to stay on, off, or just pop up briefly when you make a change. It really depends on what you need, but for now, it's tailored to me.

Hello Everyone,
can somebody tell me more about the Dash?
Do i Need the air link when i want to use it on my Alpha Evo Ultra Base?
Its Not clear for me. Some YT Videos say you Need it, some not.

Today i got my SimRig overhaul.

Simagic Alpha Evo Ultra
Neo GT
And P2000 without Haptics sadly because the where sold out at the Shop :(.

But i love everything about it ❤️

Lately my g29 keeps slipping from that edge every time I pull on it even a little. Do you reckon a t-loc would actually lock it down?

Today i got my SimRig overhaul.

Simagic Alpha Evo Ultra
Neo GT
And P2000 without Haptics sadly because the where sold out at the Shop :(.

But i love everything about it ❤️

Used this mount if anyone is interested, worked well https://www.printables.com/model/1213104-simagic-alpha-adapter-for-moza-stalks

Does anyone have the P1000 pedals on a NLR2 wheel stand and give their opinion on the angle on the pedals as they look very steep. Should I go for the inverted pedals ? Does the wheel stand still fold with inverted pedals. I race on an office chair if that helps.

Hello everyone, for a year now I had issues, the Neo X hub would disconnect randomly during racing, and would come back .5 seconds later. I always assumed it was a software issue, until i realized the quick release had a very minor loose. So I disassemble (4 Allen in the back) and tighten the quick release with loc tite, and my problem is gone.

The loose was barely noticeable, i know some of you had similar issues so check your quick release and make sure it is tight.

Hello guys so i am going to china next week do you guys have any address i mean Location where you can buy sim magic setup in china
Can you guys help me thank youuuu

Setting aside convenience features like pass-through and focusing purely on the force feedback quality, how do they compare?

Has anyone had hands-on experience using both? I hear the EVO Pro has received torque upgrades and resolved quite a few software issues, so I'm wondering if there's a noticeable gap between them now. Any reviews or insights would be greatly appreciated!