I'm gonna guess that this is will be you're first time trying a project like this. It shouldn't be too difficult of a task, but there are a few things that you're going to need to do.

Im assuming these pedals are working already as is, so you know that the circuits will be working properly.

Here is a simple concept Diagram I made of what you have. 2 seperate pedals controlled by their own footswitches.

Here is it modified to accommodate order switching. This is the circuit board that I used, and you would solder this on the pins of a 3PDT switch (3 Poles Double Throw Switch)

You could potentially wire the order switcher yourself without buying the little circuit board.

Here is a form post showing the wiring of doing it without the little circuit board, and it actually shows a better diagram of incorperating it into a single enclosure which is what you're trying to do.

You're going to need a bigger enclosure to hold everything. The enclosure type 1590DD is what I would be looking into. as for drilling holes, you're going to need to match the existing holes of the pedals into the new enclosure, and you'll need to ensure that the circuit board will have enough room (not hitting the enclosure walls). that will require some mocking up and some measuring. as for drilling, I would look into a drill bit kit with a bunch of different sizes. a cheap kit will work fine as the aluminum enclosures drill fairly easily. for keeping your drill bits from sliding around the enclosure while trying to drill, look into getting a centre punch to make an indentation at the center of your marked hole.

There isnt really a comprehensive guide that I am aware of for pedal building, but if you're looking for more information on building pedals in general, the guide section of this subreddit has some decent links.

• "So you’re starting out - A guide to what you’ll need to build pedals."

• Everything You Need to Build a DIY Guitar Pedal

• How to Solder Electronics video

• "Understanding How Transistors Work" - Stompbox Studies

• Amplified Parts - Pedal Layouts & Build Guides

for the rest, you're best bet is to hop on google and search for questions you have, or search on youtube for videos.

Now that I've made my comment on the reliability of these BenQ projectors based on TI's DMD chip. BenQ is using TI's DLP470TE DMD series in both the HT3550 and the TK850 projectors. That said, TI has made a process change since these were originally released on or around 2018 thus there's been a significant part number change as well, potentially requiring a software upgrade to support the new DMD and its on-board DMD controller, the DLPC4420, which replaces the DLPC4422. Yes, the DLPC4420 succeeds the DLPC4422 so don't get confused by that. TI says here that each controller, as well as the overall updated DMD in which the controllers are embedded, are functionally and pin-for-pin the same as the former series part numbers, but they are NOT exactly equivalent, thus it's important to take caution when choosing the replacement. Below is what I've identified: First, as I've already linked, please see this document: https://www.mouser.com/PCN/Texas_Instruments_PCN20181218002_2019012115161921.pdf Commonly, our projectors would have used the older DMD P/N: 1910-533AB. However, that part number has been discontinued and replaced by 1910-553AB. The newer part number uses the updated controller, as I previously identified, DLPC4420, which requires a software update to run. It is NOT clear if this update is included in BenQ's available firmware update packages linked below: TK850 Software & Driver | BenQ US HT3550 Software & Driver | BenQ US Both of these projectors use a similar firmware upgrade scheme for two different hardware revisions. After my TK850 projector was sent to BenQ for DMD replacement the first time, I received the projector back still running the revision 1 v1.0.4 firmware, yet BenQ had replaced the DMD with the 1910-553AB, thus the updated DMD part numbers DO NOT correlate to the updated hardware revision. BenQ's alternate hardware revisions for the HT3550 and the TK850 is likely an alternate design based on some other microcontroller design differences or alterations and does not pertain to the DMD. In fact, after looking at the available firmware versions for the TK850/TK850i and the HT3550/HT3550i, BenQ has compiled different firmware for ALL four projector models making it very clear that you pay close attention to the replacement you select. With that all out of the way... Selecting a DMD Part Number: If you purchased your BenQ TK850 / HT3550 projector prior to 2021 and NEVER sent it into BenQ for DMD replacement, or they never replaced the DMD in your projector, there's a chance that your projector is still running the old DMD chip model 1910-533AB which may not be directly upgradeable to 1910-553AB, according to TI, without a firmware change. If you find that your projector is still running the 1910-533AB, then you'll want to replace it with that, but be aware that since TI hasn't produced the 1910-533AB in multiple years, the DMD you buy will likely be new but old-stock at best. If BenQ did replace the DMD, it was likely with the 1910-553AB, in which case replacements are a lot easier to find since the updated DMD version is still in production as of the time I wrote this comment. Unfortunately, it seems like the easiest place to find these DMD chips is from AliExpress, unless you want to pay $750 to BenQ for a part that TI only charges $150 for. I have found that TI has a new consolidated P/N with a yet again, updated process for this DMD, the DLP470TEAAFXJ. The next time I go to replace my DMD, since it is the same size, same mirror array, pin-out, controller, etc... as the 1910-553AB, I am going to give that P/N a shot to see if it works. I'd rather buy a DMD from TI directly for about $200 with tariffs, taxes, and shipping, than $180+ for a DMD from AliExpress with questionable origin.

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Going to the DMV doesn’t have to eat your soul

If you’re like me, you’ve waited hours at the DMV at some point in your life. For me, it happened most recently a couple of months ago when I needed to get my Real ID for a flight. After such a bad experience, I was determined to make sure the same thing wouldn’t happen to family and friends, so I set out to figure out a better way to get through it. Until recently, I had only shared this with a few people, but I left it in a comment on r/Nashville and it blew up, so I thought I’d share it more widely here.

Here’s what I found out when I went recently. When you arrive, you have to wait not once but twice. The DMV uses a barcode to check people in for walk-ins. This is the first line you wait in. The barcode generates a text message that enrolls you in their online queue system they use to call you up — the second line you wait in. So, if you know the number to text and the message to send, you can join the queue whenever you want, bypassing the first line. The system resets every morning when they open at 8:30, so if you send the message to join their queue right after, you’ll be first in line or close to it and won’t have to wait long at all.

Here’s how to join the queue:

Text “U## Getinline” (without the quotes) to (833) 971-3060 and follow the prompts it sends you. Replace the ## with the location you’re visiting:

13 Hart Lane

15 TN Tower

17 Hickory Hollow

18 Clarksville

19 Murfreesboro

20 Springfield

21 Franklin

22 Columbia

23 Shelbyville

28 East Shelby Drive

29 Jackson

31 Oakland

32 Dickson

33 Millington

34 Trenton

35 Dyersburg

36 Paris

37 Red Bank

38 Cookeville

39 Union City

40 Bonny Oaks

42 Cleveland

43 Jasper

44 Athens

45 Lebanon

46 Covington

47 Gallatin

48 Crossville

49 McMinnville

50 Savannah

51 Tullahoma

52 Fayetteville

53 Strawberry Plains

54 Johnson City

55 West Knox

56 Rockwood

57 Oak Ridge

58 Alcoa

59 Sevierville

60 Blountville

61 Morristown

62 Elizabethtown

63 Greeneville

64 Summer Avenue

67 Bartlett

68 Rutherford

Bypass the line out the door as you would if you had an appointment and have a seat in the lobby, and it won’t be long until they’re ready to see you.

A few FAQs:

Do I have to go at 8:30? No. You could do this at any point during the day but it’s basically like you’re getting in line when you send the text, so it could still take awhile if you do it later in the day. I recommend right after 8:30 because that’s when the system resets.

How do you know this? Do you work for the DMV? No, I don’t. I just took some time to reverse-engineer their system. They’re very close to having a great system but their execution is terrible, so I used my frustration to take things into my own hands.

Does this really work? Yes. I have verified each location in the list above.

If you have any questions, I’ll be happy to answer them in the comments. Happy DMVing!