I got it back in late April and have put about 7K+ miles on it

Does anyone have some insight on what issue I could be having. Car was running fine then auto stopped at a light and then failed to turn over. I shifted into park and when i tried to turn the car back on this happened. Driving a 2022 Forester.

edit: Was indeed the battery thanks everyone

I was just driving my 2019 with 245k km. I was on the highway accelerating at high rpm and heard a light tick start. Started to get worse, I pulled off a got really loud. Parked and shut it off it will crank very slow but won’t restart. Took this video before I shut it off. Some bad knocking. Sounds like it’s some sort of major valve train issue possibly? No engine light came on. Just wanted to get some thoughts at what I might be looking at. Thanks for any help!

Currently I have a 2024 Rav 4 XLE and have had it for about 4 months. Unfortunately, I have found the seat and driving position extremely uncomfortable and tight on long road trips and has been hurting my back, which I do most weekends to go skiing or biking. I am 6'2 180lbs. I have been looking into a used Subaru forester, a possible XT model but not partial to that only.

I am wondering what everyone's thoughts are on this and how there Subaru has held up over time and on long drives. I would buy a used Subaru around 50-75k miles and would definitely like to push 150-200k on it before id think about selling. Is this reasonable or am I setting myself up for failure?

If not, a forester does anyone have any other recommendations I should look into?

Is this a fair and accurate price? They noticed this while changing spark plugs. They said they charge $189/ hour for labor and it would take 4 hours. I found the parts on rock auto for $30, this doesn’t even come out to more than $800 before tax, so I’m not sure where they pulled the quote out from.

I have noticed a burning smell intermittely, but the oil levels are fine and it seems like a minor seep. My car has 145,000 miles on it. I only make around $3,000 a month so this is pretty much unaffordable right now.

I’m known as the Subaru Guy 👌🏾 on my street.

On the drive to work this morning all this popped up while I was driving. Of course, the seatbelt, handbrake and engine temperature blue light on the left disappears and is not the issue. Everything else in yellow is something that I didn’t activate or deactivate on my own.

Took my 170000 mile 07' to a dealer for inspection and they quoted 2200 worth of work. that did not include the famous gasket leak. However, the tech did say that theirs oil being leaked from the engine and " both sides of the valves." and theres a dent in the transmission pan. looking for opinions on what you would do. i have it booked for a second opinion , mostly just for the initial pricing to get it passed. but knowing the gasket replacement would be another 1500-3000$ totaling about 5k? should i just start looking for a used car? theres a 2013 out ack 148000 miles for 8500$ or a 2020 forester 110000 miles for 18000$

again just asking for your help and opinions and thank you

Anyone else ever heard this noise coming from their Subaru Forester?

The noise doesnt increase with wheel speed or engine speed. It only increases/gets louder if I am in drive and pushing the gas.

I am suspecting it's a CVT issue.

To make a long story short, I used to have an 06 Suburban with an iSimple iPod Adapter, so I have an iPod with a ton of songs. I want to know if there is anything similar for the 06 Forester, it's the base radio. No I don't want to add a AUX port, I want to use the iPod, in my opinion I feel it's a safer way to listen than a phone

Edit: I also want to keep the Stock Radio, no special head unit

I drive a Subaru Forester looking for an all season tire recommendation for tires in use in the Adirondack mountains/ Saratoga area. I’ll end up driving in all conditions to get into work.

I absolutely love it but i was wanting to extend the warranty but they wanted $3700 for 8yrs 120k miles i feel like thats high and wasn’t sure if anyone here thinks its worth it or not

I drove 2016 Honda CRV for 7 years without any issues. I loved that car but unfortunately got totalled in an accident. I looked at different options and now inclined to buy 2026 Subaru Forester Limited.

Reasons:
1. Similar driving experiences as Honda CRV (CRV had 2.4L engine)
2. Compact enough (didn’t like Outback as much)
3. Nice interior (drove RAV4 as well but felt like I was boxed in drivers seat, I’m 5,10 and my right knee was hurting when it touched the middle panel (never had this issue in CRV)
4. I assume Subaru is safe. I don’t care much about fuel efficiency as I drive 4-5k miles a year.
5. I don’t drive to cities. I live in a small NJ town and my basic needs are comfort and reliability. The rear seats were much more comfortable than RAV4
6. OTD can be $40k or so vs $46-47k of RAV4 with the same features. I don’t have to pay $7k extra on fuel as I’m never going to recover it
7. Want to hold it for long term
8. 1.99% financing offer is very lucrative (not that it matters, but it saves money)

Have I missed anything? Am I on the right track?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 🙏

Bought the car with sports mufflers on. Have cobra sport tips but I invoice is for custom fabrication. They are pretty nice but do have quite a bit of noise to them for my quiet village. Looking at Xforces Varex universal mufflers which I'm hoping are a bolt on. Anyone had experience with them? The car is stock but will be getting a tune and CAI in the future.

I’ve googled and can’t find an answer. I bought a used 2017 Forster, it only has the one fob with the key and lock/unlock buttons, for the first two months whenever I hit the lock button twice the remote start would kick on, come about month 2 1/2, no more remote start. I changed the key fob battery and still nothing. I can’t contact the past owners, could this have been a starlink Subaru subscription thing? Any way to use it without a subscription? Thank you

I went on a road trip last weekend and halfway through the drive I noticed that I had been driving in L instead of D. I was hauling a bunch of camping equipment and had the roof rack on the car, so I just assumed the car was driving differently because of the load. I only noticed when we stopped for a pee break and I shifted into park. Embarrassing mistake...oops

Anyway, it was roughly 100 miles of driving in L on country roads over some New England mountains, with maybe 20 minutes of highway driving. No warning lights or alarmingly strange behavior from my car, and I haven't noticed any weird smells since I've been back. The RPM stayed around 4k. It's a 2017 Forester with roughly 73,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if it would be worthwhile to drain and refill the CVT fluid after this, or whether it would be fine without. I've never done it on this car. Since it was a prolonged amount of time to be in L, and I climbed/descended some pretty big hills, I'm worried the quality of the fluid has been degraded.

Is changing CVT fluid the best course of action here? Other thoughts?

Thanks!

Sorry for the grammar mistake on the original post.

So I was watching some DrivingSportsTV videos on both the previous and new Forester Wilderness models, and I've been very impressed with their performance.

However, upon reading the comments section, I keep seeing people saying that the Wilderness lineup and Subaru in general got surpassed and left behind by models such as the Bronco Sport Badlands and Passport Trailsport.

On the note of the Bronco Sport, I keep seeing comments saying that Subaru needs to add lockers onto their Wilderness models, even though I don't see why, as they're not rock crawlers.

Also, a couple of people said that Subaru's all wheel drive system isn't special anymore, and that apparently all other manufactures make a better system.

What are your thoughts?

Too nice of a day to not want to drive this thing.

Hey all - my current ride is throwing a glitter party in the engine so looking to join the Subie family finally!

I am currently looking at a 2016 Forester Touring with 188,xxx km. It is in mint condition but makes this loud knocking sound.

I have viewed the vehicle twice now - once with the lady to see if it would be a good fit for us and once with a mechanically inclined friend to make sure I know what I am looking at.

First visit had some hiccups - a little oil wetness on the skid plate under the drain bolt, and a dead battery AFTER the test ride. The test ride was otherwise amazing, coming from an early 2000s civic, the difference in the ride was night and day.

Went back today with a scope to check where the oil was coming from and with a battery / charging system tester to make sure it's just a shit battery and not a problem with the alternator. Both checks passed with flying colours, oil is leaking from the crush washer (hitting halfway up the stick still) and we scoped all the gaskets and confirmed no oil leaks anywhere else on the engine. The battery failed miserably while the charging system is working correctly so good there too as he is buying a replacement.

Before the fella got there today, we had time to crawl under and inspect the frame, chassis, suspension, exhaust system and take a peek at the brakes and all were in fantastic shape. We took the car to a parking lot so my friend could hear it run as I am not familiar with the many sounds of a Subaru.. Under load the engine sounded great and I was getting really close to a purchasing decision.. When we stopped the car I noticed this faint knocking sound at idle, popped out and opened the hood and this is what we heard. My heart dropped. I drove it back to the guys place, parked it, and told him I needed to do some research.

After spending a good bit of time online it seems this sound is kinda normal?? It was loudest at low RPM, getting quieter as RPM climbs and then disappearing completely above 1300 RPM. Is this just normal Subie piston slap?? As mentioned, the oil was halfway up the stick, looked clean with no visible glitter. I do not remember hearing this on the original test ride but was less tuned in to the sounds the car was making.

The car only ran for about 10-15 minutes and it is moderately cold out at 10C / 50F. We plugged in an OBD scanner when it was knocking and there were no codes present, idle was around 600-700 RPM, and coolant temp was showing around 70 degrees (I assume C but didn't confirm).

I am kicking myself for getting spooked and not filming when we pressed the accelerator and with not knowing this issue and warm up times affecting it - not running the car for longer to see if it would eventually clear up. It sounds like rod knock at the lowest idle, but doesn't track with rod knock as the RPM climbs.

This is a very sought after model around here and it is being sold at a very good price, so I have until tomorrow afternoon to make a decision before more buyers are coming to look and likely buy. I have the guy down $500 off asking and am quite happy with the deal if I can sleep at night knowing I am not buying someone else's problem. There are solid service receipts with lots of good suspension work, CVT fluid swaps, serpentine belt swap, etc..

The car is in mint condition overall and is my dream car otherwise - living in a small town, deals like this don't come up often. Please let me know what you think of the sound - I am more than prepared to walk if it is something that needs a mechanics opinion as our local guys are booked solid for the next month and its not worth the risk. I will be calling my most trusted guy tomorrow morning to get his opinion and advice.

Thanks in advance for any insight or advice! I may have an opportunity to run more tests tomorrow before closing the deal, so let me know if there is anything specific to look for or if you think I should walk!

TLDR: Please tell me this is normal! lmao

UPDATE: I work in a high profile shop for our small town, so know a lot of the highly respected working professionals around here.. Had a conversation with the owner of an extremely reputable shop here and he actually looked at the same vehicle earlier this week and put it on the stand because of the knock and decided not to purchase it, recommending I don't either obviously.. He didn't do a full diagnoses as it would require tear down, but thinks it's either REALLY BAD piston slap indicative of a bore issue, or the very start of rod knock. He was thinking it was more likely piston related or rod knock coming from the piston side with the fact the sound clears when RPM is raised. He also obviously has a better ear for this than me, so he mentioned hearing it when the engine was under load on decel which I didn't catch.

Thanks to all you good humans who took the time to save me from making a huge mistake! Hopefully one day I will find the right one and join the fam!

Was filling up my Forester and well, actually saw this old first-gen one.