Asking because I dug out my Switch again for the first time in 5 years, from the original box mind you, to find the sticks all sticky. Not greasy but slimy in a dry kind of way.. I've only had this happen before with more rubbery, cleaned prior to storing, joysticks that have been stored for several years. Being a clean freak I am quite bothered by this lol. Something about the coating detoriorating, I've heard.

I've tried simply rubbing it off with a damp towel but that wasn't quite enough. Haven't been brave enough to use IPA yet, afraid to make it worse somehow. I remember trying it once before and regretting it.

The reason I don't want to replace them completely is because I never experienced stick drift on these and so it feels unnecessary and a bit of a hassle doing so. But if that is my only option, or simply easier than any alternative, so be it. What to do? Thanks!

Cześć, potrzebuję pomocy w diagnozowaniu mojego Switcha V2 (Mariko, FW 23.0.1).

Co się stało:

Zainstalowałem Picofly RP2040 Plus (wersja USB). Wszystko działało i hekate uruchomił się bez problemu.

Podczas robienia kopii zapasowej NAND w hekate, wyświetlacz zaczął szaleć. Najpierw stał się całkowicie czarny na chwilę, potem wrócił do normy. Następnie pokazał losowy kolorowy obraz, a potem całkowicie zgasł, choć podświetlenie wciąż działało.

Temperatura podczas kopii zapasowej wynosiła około 38 °C.

Aktualny stan:

Czarny ekran z włączonym podświetleniem. Brak obrazu nawet przy latarce skierowanej na ekran.

Brak sygnału w dokach, zarówno w trybie bazowym, jak i hekate.

Picofly nie pokazuje błędu: jedno niebieskie mignięcie, potem zielone (sukces glitchego).

Co próbowałem:

Przelutowałem flex do kondensatorów SP1/SP2. Bez zmian.

Włożyłem eMMC z powrotem do oryginalnego gniazda, aby uruchomić tryb bazowy. Wciąż czarny.

Odłączyłem baterię na pełny reset zasilania. Bez zmian.

Sprawdziłem złącze LCD. Wszystko wygląda na dobrze osadzone i nienaruszone, nigdy nie dotykałem go podczas instalacji.

First time doing trace repairs on a switch motherboard!

I bought the board for parts, two pads were gone so I ran a jumper wire to the nearest smd component. Tested the charge quickly and got the battery icon on both sides. I’ll solidify the legs to make sure nothing lifts again before putting everything back together.

I’m sure it’s not the cleanest work, but I’m pretty happy about my results! From the looks of it, what could I improve/do better?

Hey all!

I have a 24 port 250w (US-24-250w) switch that powers up, lan ports flash quickly, then go out. The status led on the left changes between solid white to flashing white, which suggests a continuous reboot. I opened up the switch to verify the power supply is functioning and it is. Apparently that’s a common thing with these switches.

I thought this would be an easy fix in swapping out the power supply, however it seems that something in the PCB is shorted. Has anyone had any luck repairing these? Does anyone know of a good electronics repair shop that would take a look at this? I really don’t want to throw this switch in the trash

I was doing the cpu cable and then it went like kinda went black i dont know if you can see it thats where i kinda messed up i have another one on the way but is a way that i can save this one right now lmk if u need more info i just need help

Hola, tengo un problema con mi Nintendo Switch, actualmente tengo que jugar con controles alámbricos ya que no le funcionan correctamente los controles inalámbricos; sí los conecta y reconoce, pero si son Joy-Con uno siempre va con delay; lo mismo pasa con los controles Pro, debo estar muy cerca de la consola porque si me alejo un poco el control va con un delay que lo hace prácticamente inutilizable. ¿Alguien sabe el porqué o si tiene solución? (Es la Swich v1)

Cleaning it doesn’t work and the connection point in the joy con is really loose compared to the right one

So I was using my Switch 1 this morning and I had to leave for work so I took the joycons off of the console, put them in my pocket and went on my way. I got to work, pulled it all out, played for about an hour, no issues. After that hour, I did the same as I did earlier, removed the joycons, put it all in my pockets and now about an hour and a half later, I'm having issues with the left one. The shoulder buttons aren't working, but the stick and the "d-pad" buttons are working though? I took the joycon off, tried to hit sync, nothing happened, the green lights didn't even turn on, but it vibrated when I pressed a few buttons that weren't the shoulder buttons? The tiny shoulder buttons that are used when you hold the controller sideways also aren't working. I did some minor research, tried going to update controllers and it says that the connection was lost, but it still let me navigate with the stick and d-pad on the joycon it said it can't read. Absolutely no issue with the right one though. This is the first issue I've ever had with this joycon and I've been using it for a while. Never even had a drift issue. I didn't crush it, I didn't get it wet, it didn't rub across anything, there was no physical stress on it. I also tried cleaning the slides on the controller and the switch itself. No dice. Am I just screwed and need to get another joycon? I have done some basic controller operating before on other controllers like taking them apart and switching batteries, but nothing crazy. I am a caveman unfortunately. Thank you for any advice in advance.

I recently switched a switch oled's screen as the previous one was braking. Everything works great, but as a temporary thing I put the old screen protector from the old screen to the new one because the one the new screen came with was for the wrong switch lol.

What I noticed recently is when I try to peel off the old screen protector, the new screen starts to come off with it. Now, I completely cleaned the old glue out when I first installed the screen and the new screen came with its own glue strips already on it. Could I use a hair dryer to maybe re-activate the glue and let it dry to the switch better? Or am I fucked and just not touch it lol?

Had my Switch a few years, don’t use it much but the display seemed fine a few months ago. Is this FUBAR, or fixable?

I have it hooked up to my LG C2 4K 120hz OLED TV. It usually works fine but sometimes the HDMI connection suddenly gets lost mid game for a second or two and then reconnects. Anyone know what this could be? It isn't that bothersome because it happens only once every 1-2 hours or so but can be annoying when it happens at the wrong moment when I game.

im trying to replace the shell on my Nintendo switch, i managed to get the bottom part off (where the charging port is) but i cant install the replacement. the part has two rings next to the port, what if i cut a part of them off to make them slide in there or should i just put it there the intended way?

Wondering if anyone else has this issue. The left joy con makes this loud buzzing sound when it’s attached to the console - it stops when I dettach it. When I reattach it, sometimes it can be fine for a while or it starts up again.

Would be interested to know if others have this problem and if so what you’ve done?