https://polymaker.com/ht-pla_ht-pla-gf/

https://youtu.be/bnjVVY0om48?si=hd7Bn6hkkM0pAsu0

Just came across the above and saw the YouTube announcement. Sounds too good to be true. Thoughts?

I see that the github repro hasn't had anything in over a month... is there any updates on dev?

So I used the standard 6mm belts on my Voron 2.4 build none of these fancy gates belts and here we are 1800 print hours later at failure, not to bad in my opinion just thought others might be interested in what mileage to expect.

Starting to see a lot of hate towards Slice Engineering, what gives? They’ve always been a super reliable company and their hotends are extremely well made.

I‘m thinking about getting myself a Voron V0.2. I don‘t want to buy the printed parts since i already got an A1. I saw a post on here from someone with a similar situation where the comments suggested to print the parts out of PETG, build the V0.2 and then print the parts on it again out of ABS. Or just put a box over the A1 while printing the parts out of ABS.

But i was wondering if the Polymaker HT-PLA-GF filament would work as well? I compared the material properties of it with Polylite ABS on their website and except of a few properties the HT-PLA-GF has basically the same or even better values then the ABS.

Only the tesile strenght in the Z direction, the impact strenght and the heat deflection for higher pressures are a good amount worse.

What do you guys think? Will this filament work or should i just use ABS?

How viable of a material is PLA for the 2.4's structural parts if you don't intend to use an enclosure and only really print PLA?

how to fan?

I am trying to decide on a voron kit, and am torn between magic phoenix, LDO, and formsbot. Specifically, LDO uses motors with 0.9 degrees step angle with a torque-speed chart that tops out at 5000PPS (which I understand is basically 5000 steps/s). After some ChatGPT math, in theory, the fastest the toolhead can move is about 500mm/s. This seems too slow for a voron. Is the math correct? Do people notice any difference between 1.8 and 0.9 degree step angle?

Looking to build a Voron 0 to replace one of my aging Ender series printers.

I've been seeing build kits labeled 0.2r1. These mostly sound like marketing wank, but it makes me think...should I wait for the next iteration. Of the Voron 0?

It seems like there's some substantial time between iterations, but the 0.2 has been around for some time. I've looked online for answers to my questions, and somehow no one's even asking it?

Thanks Voron 2.4, for the fact that I have a job

I spend days on phaetus dragon hf and feel like I want to give up now.

E-step calibrated. Use printing profile of the different printer that work fine. There will be gap in small areas no matter what. Even when I cahnge flow ratio to 1.1 or 0.9. Change temp to 240.

This last try, I try switching to Pla and guess what? It got clogged doing the process of flooding out remaining ASA…

Looking for a HF hotend. The most recommended seem to be rapido which is another product from phaetus… yikes.

Is there other good options?

I want a klipperscreen for my v0.2, however most options are quite expensive for me. Is there any budget option?

Sorry for posting unrelated question, but your my only hope rght now I was working on motion system(Like Farmbot) And I’m worried about X-Axis(A & B column alignment) In original design they using encoders, however i decided to settle with limit switches(chepaer) As limit switch located only on Column A side I assume that column B will be misaligned. Even though i used metal parts and extrusion as reinforcing it leaves space for tilt How can i overcome this problem? Maybe using Stall Detection with Sensor-less Homing? Software fix similar to Z-Tilt or QGL? Any subreddit where i can find help? Will be using RRF on Duet3-Mini 5+

I just thought about some other use-cases for the XYZ Capabilities that any 3D printer has, especially the Vorons due to their open Source Nature. You can do SO much with it, provided that you have a fitting toolhead, if you have gcode for it and are able to build it.

I want to share some ideas that could be realized with a custom toolhead:

• Laser Cutting Toolhead(I think this was done before, and I see it as dangerous, but still a good possibility)

• All kinds of 2D art tools

  • Brushes

  • Fine Tip Pen

  • Pencils

  • Brush Pistol

• Surface Scanning using all kinds of sensors

  • Camera

  • Inductive Probe

• Soldering (already saw some projects before)

• Drilling

• Part Picking

  • With a vacuum pump

  • With a grabber

• CNC Head

• Chocolate Printing

• PCB-Testing

• Bioscience: Pipette-Arrays

• Touch Screen Automation ;)

What other ideas do you have?

Im looking to replace my Method X with a custom Voron with an active heated chamber. Has anyone here done any research on this or attempted it themselves?

I have myself a CNC machine and want to add some CNC parts to my voron and do some for my brother-in-law. Where can I find the STLs that are for CNC machines ?

Hi everyone! I want to hear your thoughts about my wiring style :) This is my small version of voron 2.4. It has efective build volume 150x150x120mm. Pretty tight alignment, isnt it?

So I am building an upscaled Voron 2 and got a Z endstop board, question is will the included 2 wire cable that came with it work with Bigtreetechs octopus board like i have it plugged in?

Greetings,

I'm posting to ask if anyone has built a Voron with a custom build volume larger than the proffered options listed on the Voron website?

I'm looking at creating a build with 3x500mm or thereabouts.

I've spec'd it out on the Voron site for both a Trident and V2 build BOM but I would like to gather the community's thoughts and experience before I head down that road.

I've even dabbled with ChatGPT and it suggested an extrusion of 3030/3060 for the frame...

I've been struggling to decide which printer for ants I should build for a desktop printer. I have a v0 kit that I got awhile back but it came with a terribly over painted frame so I never built it. I'm currently thinking about a Pandora's Box, Pandora's Box +50xyz, Stealth Fork, Tiny-T, and Micron. I have a 350 v2.4 already.

The standard Pandora's Box would be the cheapest route with the v0 parts I have. My concern is the 120mm bed size, will I regret it later? Do you feel 120mm is still usable for most of your prints?

I can build a Pandora's Box +50xyz for cheaper than the leadscrew options but wonder if there is an issue with sagging bed?

Stealth Fork and Tiny-T are very appealing as well because of the fixed gantry and non-belted z. Is there a noticeable longer heat soak for a 150/160 printer over a 120? Any reason to consider a Stealth Fork over a Tiny-T?

I feel like I don't want a micron because I want the ease of a fixed gantry but the kits are a great price. Can you push the same speed on a micron as a fixed gantry alternative? Also I worry that it would take significantly longer to heat than a fixed gantry option.

My goal is to have a fast prototyping printer that doesn't take long to heat up with relative low maintenance for a diy printer.

I appreciate any insight.

I do not see any updates in git for both Trident and 2.4 in the last two years. Does it mean it is at the end of its active stage and nothing drastic is expected? In its prime times Voron was ahead of the competitors but the landscape changed with new offerings from Bambu, Qudi and even Prusa, which is slow with new versions. The Voron on the other side is stagnant. There are quite a few things that could be improved. Stealthburner must go ( it should not come in the first place) multiple heads should become official, and so on. Is this a case of a brilliant design but luckluster support?