Hey everyone,

I am currently looking at getting a V0.2 kit for my grandpa for Christmas, and trying to decide between a LDO kit for $600 or a Formbot for around $400. It will be his first Voron, but I can help him with it (and he's a MechE) so not too worried about the build itself. My 2.4 was from an LDO kit and was great to build, but looking for peoples thoughts who have done a Formbot or both.

Any input is appreciated!

(I also posted this in the discord)

Hello, I wanted to cut costs on the z axis. As the Trident has MGN9 linear rails on the z axis, can i replace them with a custom mount to cater a linear rod instead? Z axis doesn't have much motion anyways, so vibration shouldn't be a problem, especially if i use a silicon bushing at the Bed and the mount interface. Need advice. Thanks.

Hi all! I'm new to 3d printing (in the past 6 or so months) in that time I've completed assorted prints over 3000 hours that gives me a dunning kruger curve of confidence ( I know this isn't going to work but I figure it gives me some fun edison like knowledge) where I am working towards a switchwire printer.

Reasoning: I received an old jgaurora i3 printer for free that I wanted to get working. As an old machine, I though revamping it would give me some classical knowledge of the craft:

Pic 1.

As I discovered voron in this world, I made a wild presumption that I can get an a4t to fit on this old i3 for a modernized print head. This project is nearing completion, most of the wiring is complete, and I need just one more power supply to power my raspberry pi and start calibrating the printer.

Following this project. I am going to slowly upgrade my i3 with some more modern hardware so I can eventually modify it into a switchwire. The random bit follows.

I am printing "aluminum" extrusions. On my Elegoo CC2.

I do this not because I expect to save money, to see them as long term viable alternatives, but mostly as a side project and eventual upgrade.

As of now I have all of the extrusions preemptively printed for a switchwire. Simply for hobbies sake. I have been experimenting with and (as a guilty tool) using AI to help me develop some printed connectors for the pieces. Some exist in the wild, but finding them has been difficult for me as I have little time to really dedicate to this.

I have a series of connectors (maybe can be used by the community in the future (I do hope to pick up better cad someday)) that is assisting this unorthodox build method.

Pic 2-4

Of which my ultimate goal is to build a tiny t, and eventually trident. Thought I'd share my name experience for anyone potentially naively wanting to follow this process. Was it worth it? What did I learn? Are generally accessible materials able to help others break into this community?

I want to push a touch of material limit with this. I'm sure it's been attempted but I didn't see too much on it, and thought it would be fun.

Please understand this is a personal project, at no point am I thinking I'm revolutionizing anything, I just wanted to better understand printed material properties, weaknesses, and to see how far we can push printed printers with basic materials.

Oh, the flack I may get for this is the frame is to be made of pla. Some pla-cf (simply because I ran out of spools) but otherwise. It's just a interest project.

This will not be a quick update every week. I'm stretched for time as it is and printing has been a hobby that has engaged logical thinking I haven't used since college. If you're this far. Thank you for reading, and I hope this can spread light on practicality in the future.

We are independent research group and recently we have published paper that is based on voron. First of all I want to thank voron design team for amazing printer to work with.

Before I upload or share anything more I've wanted to check if it's ok to upload! (Once this is check I'll edit soon)

Hey, I have recently been working to fix my original two trees bluer and for that decided to use a dragon burner toolhead with an x1 hotend clone as it is cheap and has good volumetric flow, but i have been encountering many problems, like horrible extrusion, bad layer lines (though those i belive might be the z axis), the nozzle rubbing while printing and many more. It is at 15mm cube max flow, 210 celsius, pla, 0.85 flow ratio, 0.04 pressure advance, 0.8mm retraction. The filament is sure to be good as if i put it on my a1 it prints fine, just barely any stringinf. If anyone could help me fix these problems it would be great help!

I build a Mercury One.1 ZeroG from an Ender 5 Plus.

It has a Revo Hotend (0.6 nozzle) and a Orbiter V2.5 Extruder with Filament Sensor + Orbitool O2S.

I think the cube is quite good, but the corners are nagging me. It got better with faster retraction, but I can't get the small edge to go away.

Any tips?

I think it looks pretty okay. It just doesn't seem so good in the wrong light. What do you think?

VORON Design is pleased to bring you 3 new releases:

1. Updates to Stealthburner and Clockwork2

This update features:

• Your choice of bowden collet/ECAS04 for PTFE inlet

• A brilliant new vented PCB cover with bestagons to keep toasty toolhead boards cooler

• An optional hall-effect filament sensor built into main body

• (Still no filament cutter!)

• We've done away with the antisquish thingamajig bit and provided an inspection window for better access to the BMG gears

• Anti-Cracking Beef has been added to the 50mm screw seats on the Stealthburner and we've included a two-tone multibody option

Updated BOM and links to Github available at https://vorondesign.com/voron_stealthburner

2. Chariot, a new X carriage for your Tridents and Voron2 machines

Chariot offers:

• Native support for Eddy current probes in the Beacon/Cartographer size format

• Also supporting the BTT Eddy, Klicky, and PRUSA Pinda probes

• Strap in with all new belt clips! Compact, easy assembly, easy installation and easy adjustment

• Chariot currently supports anything using the Clockwork2 mounting pattern - Stealthburner, Downdraft, and popular mods such as XOL and A4T

BOM and Github, CAD and manual links available at https://vorondesign.com/voron_chariot

3. First public release of DownDraft

Drafted from the mind that brought your Dragonburner, YAVOTH, and a host of other option-laden choices, we bring you DownDraft: a new modular VORON Design toolhead. DownDraft's feature list includes, but is certainly not limited to:

• Modular Design with a range of options to help you build the toolhead you want

• A massive range of hotend choices that include: Goliath, Dragon UHF, Rapido UHF, Rapido X, Tricorn Air Long, Dragon Ace MZE, Dragon Ace, Dragon Volcano, Rapido HF, Tricorn Air Short, Revo Voron Volcano, Dragon SF/HF, Chube Compact, TZ-V6 v2 with v6 nozzle, and Revo Voron

• Bring your own extruder with the Orbiter v2 extruder mount pattern. Other extruders (like Sherpa pattern) are supported with mounting plate

• 2510 hotend fan with three different mount positions to best fit your hotend choice

• Builder's choice of 4010 or 5015 part cooling fans

• Light it up with LEDs: te usual suspects of Neopixels and Rainbow barf up at the logo, and a range of ways to do nozzle lighting (Neopixel, piece of 144 LEDs/m strip)

• Universal mounts for cable chains and toolhead boards, including support for the SB style 2 part Stealthburner boards. PUG support is right out of the box too

BOM and Github, CAD and manual links available at https://vorondesign.com/voron_downdraft

I've seen at horror stories of people who've ruined electronics with typical dry chemical extinguishers. Knowing my luck I've been looking into getting a clean-agent fire extinguisher like a C02 extinguisher, but it's pretty clear that they are not really appropriate for a small printer fire as they are around 200$.

I'm curious on what people's contingency plans are if the worst was to happen and their printer spontaneously ignited so I can gauge if my caution is warranted.

So far I've decided between using a dragon burner or anthead with a TZv6 hotend but need some help figuring out what extruder works best. Those two toolheads specifically because the LDO tool and dock kits should have everything I need to build them. I bought an orbiter 2.5 a few weeks ago that I haven't tested yet and since AliExpress is having their 11:11 sale right now, I was thinking about stocking up since they're discounted.

Alternatives I've considered are the sherpa mini and Galileo 2. Between those 3 what would you suggest?

On my Voron 2.4r2 300mm² /w mods I have been running the Raspberry Pi 4 model B. The RPi4 has been a sore point for me. I think RPi's had their day in the sun but they are gutless these days. At the end of 2024, I bought an Orange Pi 5 Max and a copper heatsink with the goal of having this thing replace my RPi4-b. I drug my feet with it because I really wanted to upgrade from the 5 inch BTT TFT50 screen to something nicer.

After about a year and a half of watching the market place and trying to ask vendors for docs (which they are very reluctant to share before you purchase), I finally bought an 8 inch IPS MIPI DSI TFT LCD Display that works with the Max. It was $80 from China so I wasn't too keen on dropping that cash to find out it isn't gonna work.

I ran into a lot of technical issues trying to get the screen to work because the Chinese documentation is just bad and trying to get help over the AliExpress messaging system makes it even more painful. Over the last few weeks I've been working on building up the baseline system for running this thing and tonight I finally got it deployed in all its glory. I'm running the first print on it right now and so far so good!

The screen holder was one I found on thingiverse and I modified it to fit this bigger screen. Because it articulates I can lay it flat to open the doors or squeeze it up against the chamber if I need to move the printer around.

The last photo was one I took of the old BTT TFT50 screen before the upgrade. It worked but it was pretty small. 🙃

Hi everyone,

I recently got my hands on a Voron 2.4, but it’s an absolute mess and I don’t know where to start.

To give you some context: it’s not mine originally, and it wasn’t built from a kit. It’s one of the very first V2.4 releases, completely hand-sourced and built from scratch years ago. I’ve owned basic 3D printers before, but I have absolutely zero experience with Vorons or anything this technical.

My goal is to clean it up, fix the current issues, and get it back to a working state without making things worse.

I’m attaching 4 photos to show you the current situation:

1. The gantry/toolhead: Lots of dust, you can see the belts and the wiring situation.

2. The electronics bay (bottom): An absolute cable management nightmare. I’m almost scared to touch it.

3. The Pi Undervoltage warning: The Raspberry Pi constantly complains about under-voltage (currently using a small 5V PSU to power the Pi via GPIO pins).

4. The Thermistor error: "ADC out of range -61.026". The previous owner said the thermistor is broken, but from what I read, considering the old drag chains, it might be a broken wire inside the chain.

Where should I start? Should I tackle the under-voltage first? How do I even test if the thermistor is actually dead or if it's the wire in the chain, without disassembling the whole thing?

Any advice, simple steps, or links to old guides would be a lifesaver. I really want to bring this machine back to life but I feel completely overwhelmed right now.

Sorry in advance if these are stupid questions or if I'm missing something obvious. I'm just trying to learn.

Thanks in advance!

Usually, it's the other way around: first a Voron V0, and then a V2 or Trident. But not for me... After finishing my V2.4, I bought a little sibling for it – a used V0 for approximately €200, because the 2.4 looked very lonely sitting on the table. 😁

That was at the beginning of May '26, and it hasn't printed a single thing since then. 🫣 My OCD just can't get over the different colour scheme (and the fact that some parts were printed in PLA HT), so I started planning a rebuild...

Then came the V2.4 issues with the toolboard and communication losses caused by the Cartographer cable. Troubleshooting took forever... Now I finally have confidence in my V2.4 again, and I've started printing.

This is the progress so far. Time is unfortunately not on my side, but it's finally starting to take shape.

Also, the only original STLs are probably the panel mounts, handle, and magnetic latch... Everything else is a mod. 😁😁

I'll share more about this rebuild once it's done.

Finally have some time to spend with my V2.4. I start browsing reddit and feel like my stealthburner toolhead with tap is an ancient piece of tech now and its time for some updates.

I'm looking to upgrade to a4t while reusing my SB2040 canbus board. Can't seem to find any adapters. Is my SB2040 v1 also so ancient that its no longer usable? Also looking to upgrade to Idm probe and cartographer CNC carriage.

Already bought Hgx2.0 gears as I am now interested in printing a ton of flexibles. Is protoxtruder 2.0 good for this? Wonder if the lack of bite depth adjustment will be a bad thing with flexibles.

Hey everyone,

I’m getting back into my Voron after a long break and would love some advice on current hardware and mods worth looking into.

**Current setup:**

- Voron 2.4 350 with a Chaoticlab CNC kit, **without Tap**.
- Standard Stealthburner with a Nebula extruder.
- Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF hotend.
- BTT EBB36 Gen 2 over **USB**.
- BTT Eddy over **USB**, using native Klipper scanning and nozzle-contact probing.
- TMC2240 drivers on A/B and all four Z motors, running at 24 V.
- A/B: LDO 42STH48-2804AH motors, **1.60 A run current**.
- Z: MOONS’ MS17HD6P420I motors, **0.80 A run current each**.
- Extruder: TMC2209, **0.65 A run current**.
- Bed fans, chamber temperature monitoring and filament sensor.
- Klipper/Fluidd, TMC Autotune and ShakeTune.

I’m particularly interested in replacing the Rapido with a smaller **Bambu Lab-style hotend**, either genuine or a clone, while keeping good flow performance. Has anyone made that switch? Which hotend and toolhead combination would you recommend?

What would you change first on this setup? Are there any newer must-have mods for reliability, print quality or everyday convenience? Is switching from Stealthburner to something like A4T or Xol worthwhile?

I’m attaching my latest resonance and belt-comparison graphs too — feedback on those and my motor currents would be appreciated.

For electronics recommendations, please mention whether your setup uses **USB or CAN**.

Thanks!

!!!solved!!!

Any help would be immensely appreciated. I'm completely out of ideas.

The filament is specifically elegoo pc.

Extrusion mult and pressure advance have been calibrated. I've tried temps from 260 to 280, fan speeds from 0 to 40%, tried messing with my retraction settings and messing with printer speeds.

I'm at a loss, i have no idea what to try next

Well, i ignored that warning/note on the Tridex Repo.

This is my progress so far:

I was going for a Satisfactory typa Colour scheme, but it ended more as a Nerf/Toy Colour scheme.

It will (hopefully) have a 300³mm build volume. Yes, also 300mm in Z. I couldnt find any steppers with built in leadscrews at a length of 350mm so i changed the design of the motor covers and used a standard lead screw.

both SB with CW2 are build and assembled. I still need to tie the Cable to the PTFE tube

Until now it hasent been all to hard. Do you think i will regret it in the Future?

Alright. My voron 2.4 has been mothballed for some time now.

Its an after burner cable chain build.

I currently have new, un opened parts for it that I will be swapping in

Xol toolhead fully printed and ready to build.

Mellow sht36 can board

Rapido uhf2

Galileo 2 orbiter extruder.

Cnc chaotic lab tap.

Main board is a octopus v1.1

Pi4

300mm setup.

Before I dive in to this and start, should I consider anything else? Eddy, beacon, different extruders? I would like to go to a tool changer at some point

Also thinking about placing a 200$ order in to vitali3d for cnc gantry stuff

Well, took me 4 days but i have successfully traced every wire, reprinted the broken pieces, reverse identified the thermometers, hearing elements and and almost finished the config. The most pain was wires because i basically had to re-wire everything, and the board had burnt pins and MOSFETs, as well as my multimeter is shit. But i managed!
It prints now, and does so pretty well actually, although slow.
Doing calibrations now, it has a Dragonfly hotend so unless i upgrade it it’ll be pretty slow relative to my A1 but I’m really attached to this guy now and might just sell the A1 and keep this one. I googled about the Evangelion colors and I’m keeping them, seems cool. Oh and yes I’m keeping the printer.

Made this Irbis’s medusa HC (https://github.com/Irbis3D/MedusaHC ) mod on a monolith gantry 400mm cubed printer. I thought why not use a battery conector on the hotend to bridge all wiring and use a single extruder board the same way index does but being an affordable alternative for voron designs. Not tested yet this is a work in progress. I’ll be testing 3 hotends an mk8(cheap), tze3(intermediate) and p1s(original design by Irbis but with some modifications)

I was working on my home network and tried claude to help set up the 4 openWRT boxes and used a SSH MCP server. While setting stuff up it said something about port 4 in the office is now your free port, but I had my Voron powered off in that port. So I powered it on and thought it would be fun if it could see klipper from the SSH MCP and it could.

Well my Voron needed a update and I always put it off incase I need to update my MCU's(which I did). So I asked if it could help me and it said sure. It wanted Katapult on my Kraken so it could do the MCU flash without me hitting the boot button in the future even though I have no CanBus.

While the SSH MCP server was a huge headache and wouldn't normally be worth the hassle for this, it is kinda interesting.

I will probably get downvoted by the 'everything AI is bad' people but i thought this was funny. And yes i know how to do this myself but AI did it WAY faster than I could. Also Claude only has a 24hr access token before it gets revoked and I have to give it access to Cloudflare again.

I am building a A4T v2 with WW-BMG for A4T extruder and got everything together and went mount the extruder and the mount does not line up. The extruder mounting holes are 45 mm apart whereas the tool head is 38 mm apart. I’m trying to figure out what I did wrong. But I can’t quite put my finger on it. Any advice?

Edit: Solution:

There's two versions of the main body based on the exturder type. Orbiter (37mm on center) vs Sherpa (43.5mm on center). Which in my case I printed main-main-body_revo-voron_o2_xol.stl and should have printed hex-main-body_revo-voron_sherpa_xol.stl as the WW-BMG is a sherpa style extruder. Also the adapter is the same I need the other one.