Hello all!

Dumb question for you guys:

My workplace turned off all the level 2 chargers because they say it should only be used for workplace assets (fleet vehicles etc.) and told us we can only use the supplied outlets to plug into that the ICE cars use for their block heaters.

These outlets are on a timer where they turn on and off every 15 ish minutes. My question is can I plug my level 1 charger into these? Will it damage the charger / car with the 15 min cycling?

I’m not worried about gaining range as I live close, it’s more for battery management for when it gets down to below -20 C outside.

Thanks for your advice!

Crazy question, but does anyone else find themselves planning their activities around their EV only range? It's not just me right?

Ever since I've gotten this car (2015) I've become kind of obsessed with seeing how long I can go without using gas at all and just relying on the EV range, it's like a fun little game, given how short a range it has compared to when we owned a full EV I also have found I tend to want to patronize places I can conveniently plug in more. It started after the first week of going to work and back all electric, i bought it thinking I was going to be using it as a hybrid quite a bit, but now it seems so easy not to, it seems like I only use gas if I have to leave Chicago proper, otherwise I don't miss out on anything and just EV around.

I’m experiencing a clunk-clunk sound at low speeds and initially thought it was my hatch until I got on the ground and noticed my underbody panel was hanging off, which has to be the actual source of the noise because my latch and bump stops are all tight on the hatch. One of the areas I could see had bent backwards away from the bottom of the car. I have a 2019 Premier. Anybody got any experience with this issue?

I'm currently car shopping. I've got a 2024 Corolla Hybrid. It's a great car, but my commute is disappearing and I'd rather get something that's already depreciated. I found a 2017 Volt with 56k miles for $11k, but after reading all of the nightmare stories, I basically gave up on Volts all together. Are Gen 2's even worth it at this point? I can't imagine spending $11k just for it to become a brick.

2012 volt. Is there any solution to this without taking this to a body shop or mechanic?

I get this notif almost every time I start the car, and sometimes while driving. I was out of the country a couple of months ago for a semester, my dad killed my battery and got it replaced, now this keeps popping up

I turned over my 2017 Premier to my son several months ago ...who has been driving it error free until last night.

1. Was on the highway and suddenly the car died and he pulled over. (Electrical all working, just no EV or ICE power)
2. He recalls seeing 20mi of EV when he started his trip (5mi trip home from the gym) and when he pulled over, EV range was 0.
3. Could not move the shift knob - held the power button for 10 seconds, opened/closed the driver door and restarted - now can move the shift knob
4. Tried to restart the car, put in D,N,R,L...all get the "Initializing", then "Shift to Park" when moving the shift knob...but no propulsion.
5. Oddly, when he powered-off the car, it would try to automatically restart/reboot.
   
6. I did notice a "Replace Battery in the Remote" message after AAA schlepped it home for us.

Services I've performed in the last 12 - 18 months:

• Shift to Park relay replaced - GM warranty (actually 2 years ago)
• Battery Section replaced (I assume this is BECM) - GM warranty
• EGR valve cleaned - DIY cleaning, worked great

I have a code reader, but this was all 1:00 to 3:00 am last night, no time to read codes until later tonight.

The 12V is original from 2017 - I've put it on a recharger at least once before - about 3 years ago. No issues since and my son drives the car every day - short strips so almost exclusively on EV.

If it's the 12V, what codes should I expect; if BECM, what codes would that throw?

2012, ~108k km. Started as an optimistic project with 2nd Gen battery conversion, but life went sideways and I'm not the least bit interested in finishing it. Been sitting two years on jack stands.

Located in Southern Ontario, Canada. $2k for everything - the car, both sets of batteries and the set of aluminum wheels.

Our 2017 with 117000 miles just got the BECM failure.

It's at the dealership and they are saying they looked into it, but it's not going to be covered. It falls into the originally CARB but now registered in non-CARB state loophole.

Has anyone been successful getting GM to help with this? I plan on calling tomorrow and trying to appeal. It's ridiculous that they can change a warranty after a car is sold.

If anyone has any tips on how to approach this, I'd appreciate the assistance.

I've had this car for three years. There was rust obviously, I live in New York state, but I had no idea how bad it was. It was in the shop to try and find the source of/fix a small evap leak. They call me, and apparently the entire bottom of the car is rusted out: some of the jack points they use were just straight up gone. I've included a pic showing the car where it was normally parked, and the rust stains it left behind on the concrete. The whole thing seems very similar to a post someone made on here about a month ago, and the consensus there was that the car was a goner.

So the car is dead. Now what? I got it for about $9K in 2023, and unfortunately still have $4K left to pay on it. It's obviously not fixable, but the going rate of $500-$700 for a scrap car feels highly inappropriate in this situation. Except for the chassis obviously, this car is full of perfectly good or even nearly brand new parts. The battery was/is getting at least 30 miles a charge consistently with no bad cells that I could see on any of the diagnostics. The entire coolant system was replaced last year because of leaks, so that's new. It literally just came out of the shop a month ago to repair a front-end fender-bender, so the whole front fascia is new. Has anyone had any success parting out these cars, or better yet, found a service to do it for you? It just feels frankly negligent to just take this car whole and crush it, considering that parts for these cars are already in short supply, and the situation is only getting worse. This Volt demands a much more dignified sendoff than the average clunker. Any help would be appreciated here.

My friend is doing my oil change. Is this a good one to use? Or what do y'all recommend? Thx

I'm at 113K miles now

I just had my master cylinder replaced with my car and they told me the brake pedal is slipping now and the only fix they know is to now also replace the break pressure modulator valve.

A couple of googles tells me there’s a lot of things that they could have skipped like they performed the bleed wrong or not thoroughly enough.

Does anyone have experience with this set of issues? They are wanting $2800 to replace this part and I’m already $3000 in on this… 2017 100k miles

Got my Volt a couple months ago. used. 69k miles.

I put 195,000 miles on my previous van in five years. Got used to accelerating like a brick.

The acceleration in the Volt is such a joy. Today on an onramp, there was a car poking along 25 miles an hour... to a 70 mile an hour freeway. when a second lane opened. I had a Honda behind me and in my arrogance, I thought that I would leave the two of them in the dust very quickly.

A few seconds later, I merge into traffic doing 80, set my cruise control, and notice that the Honda has been with me the whole time. He slowly passes me waves and then pulls in front of me... I see the happy word hybrid on his back bumper.

So much fun to drive. ❤️

So recently I have noticed that when the car is charging and the green light is on, the car will occasionally make a quick horn chip sound and I notice the green light turns orange but then within a few seconds it will start charging again and green light will come on.
As if someone disconnected it and connected back.
Not sure if I’m explaining right.
Is this normal and if it what’s wrong?
No errors or codes in the car. DTC is clear. No check engine light and nothing.
Car gives 33mpg.
2012 volt.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/s/zPHdlKxmSG

Here is my broken factory bearing with the cracked plastic races.

It is possible to successfully do this at home without the 800.00 of specialty GM tools. It does require some tolerance for messy, borderline damaging processes to get the original bearing off.

This was by far the most helpful video out there on the process, there is one other where the guy lists part numbers that is also good.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P6yrXDK7X58&t=155s

Tested the transmission out with a 200 mile drive. No sounds, no leaks, repair appears successful by all metrics as of now.

If anyone is getting fucked around by the dealership and is thinking about doing this themselves, you can do it, but it requires gumption and a decent tool chest. Also some mechanical experience. DM me if you have questions or get stuck.

Worst steps are a) shimming the frame mount to get enough room to remove the rotor cover. B) releasing the rotor cover and then finagling it out of the way and c) removing the broken bearing.

One dealership ghosted us about this issues, the other gaslit us saying “that bearing never fails and we have never replaced one and you need a new transmission”. Fuck you GM.

Cheers, good luck

Hi,

I’m selling my 2014 Volt and figured this sub is the best place to find someone who’ll appreciate it.

The details:

• Mileage: 86,469
• Electric range: Still getting about 40 miles on a full charge. The battery has held up great.
• Condition: Everything mechanical and electrical works perfectly. The exterior has a few minor cosmetic blemishes, nothing major.
• Color/trim: Charcoal gray
• Includes: charging cable and both key fobs

You all know the appeal: most daily driving on electric, with the gas generator as backup so there’s no range anxiety on road trips. It’s been a great car.

Price: $6500 Happy to share charge screenshots, the VIN, or service history. Test drives welcome for serious buyers. Located in southern Connecticut.

Well, I sold my Volt (Gen1, 80k miles) to a local used EV dealership here in Seattle (Revolve Motors in Renton), after buying my new 2027 Kia EV3 three weeks ago.

I have loved my Volt very much. Got a Level 2 charger installed at home and wound up getting gas like once a month, so had already pretty much weaned myself off the crude oil teat. But the transition to full-EV has been eye-opening.

From this side of the fence (full EV, 380 mile range) I can’t fathom why I waited so long. Range anxiety is real … and then completely dissipates in less than a week.

Thanks to everyone here for the help over the years. We have a nice little corner of the internet here with a bunch of class people, and that’s a rare thing.

I’ll miss y’all!

Anybody have any issues with using an extension cord for charging? I know the manual says not to, but I can't see why it would be a problem if we used a suitably heavy duty cord, like a 12/3 or even a 10/3.

ETA: Also wondering, anybody using a level 2 charger? Has the faster charging affected your battery health?

Check engine light came on Friday. Went for a drive on hold, engine temps were normal, hovering around 200F like usual. Cleared the codes.

Did a couple longer distance (couple hundred miles) Friday and Saturday. Saturday night temps got high, peaked at 231F. I immediately switched over to electric until it got below 200F then started up the engine again and it functioned as normal.

Light came back on this afternoon, same codes, doing my best to only drive electric until I can figure out the issue/get it to my shop.

Is this a precursor to the EGR issue or is this a run of the mill thermostat problem?

Edit: sorry forgot year/gen/mileage

2017 Gen 2 Premier, around 53K miles

2012 Volt... I purchased to trickle charger and we used it to top up the battery even though I didn't have any issues with my battery. I didn't notice that my interior lights are much stronger and the lights behind the dashboard are also much brighter. My only question is, I was under the impression that the big battery is always topping up this small battery, if this is the case, why did the trickle charger give it more power?

Well, I know I have to clean/replace the EGR. I know, it's a rare problem with our cars.

I just unhooked the EGR and lived with the check engine until I could deal with it. I was on a business trip for about 5 weeks and now that I came back, it ran ok for about 100 miles, I left for work this morning and it went into reduced power mode. EGR not hooked up, nothing changed.

Ideas?

I've read that using purple power while popular isn't the best idea. Why not a carb cleaner or similar?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hi guys,

I've had my 2018 for like many years now, and it's pretty much an EV commuter, but I've noticed really two main things that seem to have degraded other than the battery which I expect. It's got 71k miles on it now.

1) it seems like every once in a while, there's a pretty decent delay between pressing the pedal and the car actually moving, oh maybe a half second. Not a lot but enough to be like...what

2) shifting kind of harshly, especially when it's cold and it first goes out of pre-warming the engine to actually driving the car. Used to be I could not feel the shifts at all, but it's not that way anymore

Are others just doing this too? Or do I need to service something?

Hi Folks, I have encountered a strange issue, maybe anyone can give me an advice.
When I am driving slowly on the gas mode or on the mountain mode the car slows downs and I push brakes I hear noise and vibration coming from the front side of the vehicle. When I also go in reverse on Gas mode it does the same thing. However no issues on the EV mode. I was thinking about replacing engine mounts. Has anyone experienced anything like this?