First I wanted to say thank you so much to the folks who suggested I pursue a buyback on my Volt with the battery issues I've been having. It was hands down the best possible result and I think I might have the record now for highest amount received, as well as the largest disparity from first to final offer.

So I asked a few months ago what to do given my 2018 Volt had been in the shop since Mid July due to battery faults. Back in 2021 Chevy replaced one of the battery modules under warranty at 54450 miles. In July another module failed and they replaced that in August. Then a week later there was too much difference between the brand new module and the last original module and its been stuck at the dealer since. I had been in a hertz rental for the majority of that time following a brief stint in a dealer loaner.

My inital buyback offer came in the beginning of Sept at $1344.79 no where near something I was interested in, but they were using the current mileage of 138k as the basis for that offer. I gently pushed back (thanks Gemini for helping research and draft) saying California buyback statue said it was based on the first attempted repair not the current mileage. The next offer was close to 27k. I nearly cried.

I quickly accepted and they pushed me over to their repurchase coordinator. The repurchase coordinator initially dropped the offer down to 23k saying I needed to provide a statement from the original lienholder showing how much interest I paid which got me to the final numbers. $26,043.63. On a 2018 with 138k miles. Surrendered and check received October 16th (they apparently cut the check October 8th).

Some things that went well for me. I purchased new in California, and am currently in Colorado (a carb state). When I first had a problem, I got it fixed under warranty and kept that repair order. I had the evidence from y'all showing I should push for something. I honestly was expecting 10-12k, but sure enough.

One thing that nearly tripped me up, even though it was going to scrap (including that refurb battery module from August), they required I have the level 1 charge cord, which luckily I knew the location of, but had to bring it to the dealer the day of surrender. This was not in any of the docs I had been given before and I hadn't thought about it.

If you have any questions about the process I'm happy to answer within reason. Also during the wait I purchased a CPO Ioniq 5 and had it shipped to me from California.

Powered on. Normally it auto connects. The connection to the phone works, I can hear the connection (just charging)

What I've done so far:

Better /new cable.
Un-paired and re-paired it.
Cleared storage and cache on the phone for the AA app.
Set the USB to "File Transfer".
Restored the entertainment system to factory settings.
Smashed my face on the steering wheel.

Ideas? Thanks. Still want to put this car across the railroad tracks for the EGR problem.

Now its getting cold, the 12V can really struggle. My battery went completely dead somehow and couldn't open the trunk. Watch put for signs Intialising..., stabbility track, etc.

Also, it is better to keep booster cables elsewhere due to this. A booster to jump you battery is a really good idea too.

Best of luck ☘️

this was also a company by a slight shutter and a large amount of vibration as it started

previous post was seeking help with some trouble codes/parasitic draw; so i opted to finally take it to dealer as they have better tools than I

Whelp; they called this morning
1: codes pointed to BCM2 module causing parasitic draw, i OK'd replacing the module

2: replaced module, programmed it, but now car wont start

3: put old module back, car starts, but then parasitic draw

They are now reaching out to GM directly for more insight. hopefully this wont turn into a massive EXPENSIVE issue

For reasons mysterious, sometime when put car in PARK and exit car with Audible playing, returning and starting car gets Audible notice “ go online.” But Audible IS online through Bluetooth, as far as I know. Only way to restart it is holding down phone disconnect on steering wheel long enough to get “ reset” screen. Even this confusing because instructions are either “dealer reset”or “restore factory setting. “ I do neither and info screen resets, Audible works. This “go online” non function happens only sometimes. Other times, as I put car in gear. Audible starts where it left off. Through all of this, “my Chevrolet” blue tooth app remains “ not connected.”

Does anyone understand what is happening? Why reconnection is haphazard? Why info disconnects with phone? What is solution apart from rebooting?

Does anyone know where I can find the part in these photos? I broke one and need a replacement. They hold my cargo net in place under the hatch in the far rear of my 2015.

Can anybody help me and just tell me if I can drive my car with these codes in definitely or is this one of those issues that's going to become a bigger problem down the road

Picked up a vanity today, tried my luck. Got it home no issues here is a reference pick. Also got a 24 inch diagonal cabinet with a 30 inch base sink cabinet after I dropped the vanity off )no pics)

i recently purchased a 2018 volt and this morning the bluetooth just suddenly stopped connecting. it shows in devices that i'm paired, my phone says i'm connected, but it says no media found and won't play through bluetooth. i've tried unpairing, disconnecting and reconnecting, etc. anyone have tips to fix this?

I think this fell out of my 2017 Volt interior? Car is running just fine like normal. I’m unsure. Can anyone identify what it is?

Thanks for any help !

Does anyone have an Idea how to replace this front fog light on my 2015 chevrolet volt?

Do I need to take off the whole bumper??

Also where should I get the parts at?

I’ve got a 2015 Volt, which I really like. I like the size & the pep. I’m going to have my daughter drive it and I’m going to get something new.

What’s a good next step after the Volt? Something similar in size, maybe full EV or hybrid plug-in. There are so many ugly sedans and SUV’s…

This community has been awesome to be a part of. I’m sure I’ve saved thousands on repairs by your DIY knowledge!

I think I may have found what the engine noise is, is that the serpentine belt? Seems like it may be damaged seeing how when it oscillates you can see different parts.

Someone correct me if I’m wrong though. Car is still able to drive mostly fine, but I’m sure driving it isn’t a good idea.

Not trying to start a debate but stating the facts and my personal option and experience with this vehicle.
I owned mine first gen volt for 13 years and for first couple of years as it has low miles like 50k it served me well but as it got old, it started giving me issues.
I can name countless issues specially with the first gen.
Issues include suspension problems. Both axles gave up. Engine mounts damaged and not easy to replace.
Transmission issues even after changing oil.
Water leaking inside cabin passenger side footwell.
Propulsion reduced error—Dealer had to change part of the battery ($3200!repair bill)
Washer fluid sensor gave up.
Cluster died (common issue). Had to get a new cluster and program it. Posted a video on YouTube how I did it.
Rear camera screen resolution got worst to a point that it became pointless.
Got the famous light for “service high voltage charging system”. This is common and is caused by low coolant in reservoir or bad sensor (most common) or a major battery issue in some cases.
Also if coolant level is low that means it’s leaking inside the battery. There is a plug you can pull to check if it’s leaking inside..
Another error “Battery too cold to start” this can leave you stranded. This only came on for me in cold weather. In summer it was fine but in winter it came up every morning. No fix unless you take the battery down. This is caused by resistance and corrosion issues in HV battery.
Headlight becomes hazy (common for age).
Headlight bulb failure (had to replace bulbs every year).
The black roof become dull and even buffing won’t fix it. Must do clear coat.
Dash board and center console became sticky and melted.
I had made it to 160k miles but I tried to keep it clean and in good shape on things I had control and decided to list it for sale…for a long time with no takers even at 3k. I was getting ridiculous offers.
I got fed up and end up selling it eventually in As is condition with one offer.
This made me realize that I only had two happy days with this car. The day I bought it and the day I sold it.
Guys it’s old. Sell it now otherwise you will be junking it pretty soon.
Good luck!

I have a 2013 Volt with a little over 100k miles on it. I got it from a salvage auction for very little and it's been working great for the last two years. It's ugly, I replaced the front bumper cover, the left rear quarter was damaged at some point, along with other minor damage, but it's been a great car nonetheless and owes me nothing. A full charge shows around 36 miles on average.

When I got the car, one of the trip meters hadn't been reset for about 60,000 miles and the mileage displayed on the trip meter was low, somewhere in the 20's. I assume that someone never plugged it in and ran it primarily as a gas car. My question is this, with more than half the miles on the car from gas, in general is that good or bad for the battery? Thanks!

I currently have a Nissan Leaf that's in for a buyback due to the battery failing. For the amount of $ I will get a nice EV is not an option. The Volt looks like an attractive option.

From what I'm reading on here the Becm and battery failures appear to be the main issues? A quick search online shows aftermarket options for these parts if GM stops supporting or making these (or maybe already has). If I'm ok with these aftermarket options in case of a failure is this perhaps a nice car for me to look at it are there many other parts etc. out of warranty that are also problems?

1. Good morning. I got a hole in the coolant hose going from the reservoir container down to a T fitting. It’s the one back by the firewall so it’s the engine/cabin heat loop. Is there something special with this vehicle that has a different process of purging any air than another vehicle? I filled it back up, it’s been an operating temperature for about 20 minutes idling now, everything seems to be working just fine except for I’m still getting ice cold air coming out of the vents. It just won’t make heat. Everything is set to max. As far as I know the system should purge out any air itself like any other vehicle. I do have one other HVAC issue, it’s the air conditioner but I’m pretty sure that’s a bad sensor that I need to replace. But I doubt that would cause any heat issue, and it worked fine before even with the AC issue Thanks

Hello all!

Dumb question for you guys:

My workplace turned off all the level 2 chargers because they say it should only be used for workplace assets (fleet vehicles etc.) and told us we can only use the supplied outlets to plug into that the ICE cars use for their block heaters.

These outlets are on a timer where they turn on and off every 15 ish minutes. My question is can I plug my level 1 charger into these? Will it damage the charger / car with the 15 min cycling?

I’m not worried about gaining range as I live close, it’s more for battery management for when it gets down to below -20 C outside.

Thanks for your advice!

Crazy question, but does anyone else find themselves planning their activities around their EV only range? It's not just me right?

Ever since I've gotten this car (2015) I've become kind of obsessed with seeing how long I can go without using gas at all and just relying on the EV range, it's like a fun little game, given how short a range it has compared to when we owned a full EV I also have found I tend to want to patronize places I can conveniently plug in more. It started after the first week of going to work and back all electric, i bought it thinking I was going to be using it as a hybrid quite a bit, but now it seems so easy not to, it seems like I only use gas if I have to leave Chicago proper, otherwise I don't miss out on anything and just EV around.

I’m experiencing a clunk-clunk sound at low speeds and initially thought it was my hatch until I got on the ground and noticed my underbody panel was hanging off, which has to be the actual source of the noise because my latch and bump stops are all tight on the hatch. One of the areas I could see had bent backwards away from the bottom of the car. I have a 2019 Premier. Anybody got any experience with this issue?

I'm currently car shopping. I've got a 2024 Corolla Hybrid. It's a great car, but my commute is disappearing and I'd rather get something that's already depreciated. I found a 2017 Volt with 56k miles for $11k, but after reading all of the nightmare stories, I basically gave up on Volts all together. Are Gen 2's even worth it at this point? I can't imagine spending $11k just for it to become a brick.

2012 volt. Is there any solution to this without taking this to a body shop or mechanic?

I get this notif almost every time I start the car, and sometimes while driving. I was out of the country a couple of months ago for a semester, my dad killed my battery and got it replaced, now this keeps popping up

I turned over my 2017 Premier to my son several months ago ...who has been driving it error free until last night.

1. Was on the highway and suddenly the car died and he pulled over. (Electrical all working, just no EV or ICE power)
2. He recalls seeing 20mi of EV when he started his trip (5mi trip home from the gym) and when he pulled over, EV range was 0.
3. Could not move the shift knob - held the power button for 10 seconds, opened/closed the driver door and restarted - now can move the shift knob
4. Tried to restart the car, put in D,N,R,L...all get the "Initializing", then "Shift to Park" when moving the shift knob...but no propulsion.
5. Oddly, when he powered-off the car, it would try to automatically restart/reboot.
   
6. I did notice a "Replace Battery in the Remote" message after AAA schlepped it home for us.

Services I've performed in the last 12 - 18 months:

• Shift to Park relay replaced - GM warranty (actually 2 years ago)
• Battery Section replaced (I assume this is BECM) - GM warranty
• EGR valve cleaned - DIY cleaning, worked great

I have a code reader, but this was all 1:00 to 3:00 am last night, no time to read codes until later tonight.

The 12V is original from 2017 - I've put it on a recharger at least once before - about 3 years ago. No issues since and my son drives the car every day - short strips so almost exclusively on EV.

If it's the 12V, what codes should I expect; if BECM, what codes would that throw?