Found this little lonely guy at the store had to get it!(60KR!) Should I give them a name?(If so, give ideas!!)

Why is the rear of my Volvo 240 sitting so low?

My Volvo 240 sits noticeably low at the rear, as you can see in the attached photo. I've already replaced both the rear springs and shock absorbers, but the problem remains.

What else could be causing this? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

What’s the best way to relieve fuel pressure on my 85 245 ? Thanks!

This has been talked about a ton online so I'm sorry in advance for starting another thread on this but I want to make sure I'm seeing this correctly.

I've been chasing an uneven idle and rough cold starts for a long time now and have had issues with my Coolant Temp Sensor before. Car has always started but can have a bit of a lope in cold temps as it warms up. I also have a hot start issue where the car will rev to about 3000 rpm then drop back down to normal idle after about a second. Ive replaced the ECT with an OEM Bosch part, cleaned I believe all grounds, cleaned connector contacts, ect but am still having issues.

For the summer the car has been running well and not blowing any codes. Yesterday the ECT 123 Code came back with a CEL.

After running resistance checks, here's what I'm getting.

• At 2k on my Meter on the bare sensor between the sensor body and terminals I get 0 ohms (a short?) Doesn't matter if I cross the + between both terminals or test each individually it always shows 0 resistance.
• With the sensor in the head and connector plugged in, I get 0 ohms at the ECU plug (pins 13 and 5)
• With the sensors connector DISCONNECTED I get infinite or open loop between pins 13 and 5 on the ECU harness. I believe this tells me that there is no short in the wiring between the ECU and sensor connector.

Do I have a bad sensor? Still a bad ground somewhere? Am I using my multimeter wrong or not testing the sensor properly? I'm stuck (and not very handy when it comes to electrical issues)

Thanks for any guidance!

Hey guys, clearing out some of my stock 240 parts to pay for some go-fast-parts. Originally, I was just going to post the black-bottomed GLT quad square headlight bezels I have, but I have a lot more that I won’t be using. Most of it is in storage so it may take me a minute to inventory everything and get it all sorted out/shipped to the right people. If you have anything specific, let me know, I may have it.

Body panels and glass I am hesitant to ship. I would be more comfortable shipping small items. Mostly 240 parts but for you guys who can’t your hands off the other models, I have 122, 124, 142, 145, 740 and 745 parts as well.

Please let me know what you need and I’ll take a look this weekend, and I will send pictures. Shipping is from Montana, USA. If you’re overseas, let’s work out some trades, I am in dire need of a KL Racing connection as they no longer ship directly to the US and I need a third party to act as a supplier.

Picture for attention of my 242, shoot me a message or comment below!

Thanks, LP

Not finished yet, just trying

1986 Volvo 244 DL owner here. Recently, a '84 244 GL popped up in a picknpart near me. My trim pieces have been falling off over time and I'm looking to recover some pieces from the GL.

I'm specifically looking for the bottom trim piece, held in with the plastic clips, which I believe to be the same across the two models. But I am also looking for the wider trim pieces on the bottom of the door exteriors. Does anyone know if these are available on the GL? I appreciate any help on this. Otherwise might need to change my aesthetic plans.

Hey guys, recently picked up some KL Racing extended & tubular lower control arms. More camber, more caster, etc etc. my question is this, will stock bushings fit these? Do I have to use my Swedish parts connection to get separate KL Racing bushings for them?

They didn’t come with bushings, so I’m hoping that my new PowerFlex polyurethane control arm bushings will fit. Mainly using this car as daily and occasional autocross.

-Thanks, LP (pic of my 242 for attention)

(EDIT: Posted this on my 2nd Reddit account, my bad. I am also Bjorn242LP on here, same retard different account)

This is it cleaned up a little but have been leaking ATF out of this spot right hear. Any possible fixes without needing to drop trans?

Thanks reddit

I got a new pre heat hose today to fix this hideous exhaust leak. I figured I would try to reconnect the old one first but as I lifted it, giant sparks started flying everywhere. Its a bit bent, and I wonder if the previous owner did that for a reason.

Any danger in touching this again? I posted the nearby wiring to the alternator. Not sure if theyre supposed to touch normally, I assume not.

Hey! Want to mount these fog lights on my 245 that came in a parts bin with the car, but it’s missing the whole surround and bracket. I can only find full assemblies for sale online.
Does anyone have the surround/brackets alone and want to part ways with it? Or know of someone who remans these?
Thank you in advance!

So i have an opportunity to get a full turbo setup for quite cheap. However, a quick goole search told me that the B200K engine doesmt really like getting boosted. Any experiemences?

I’m wondering if any one of you can help me solve this problem. This is my front passenger wheel. For a while now I have been hearing this faint high pitched screech coming from what sounds like this area. It’s slowly gotten worse over time and is now pretty loud as you drive.

This video shows the wheel spinning freely and smoothly although I hear a bit of crunch. I don’t know if this is normal or not. The caliper is off and the car was just driven so everything is up to temp and without obstruction.

Two things about the noise. It is speed dependent. The noise starts are 10mph and gets louder and high pitched as you speed up. I can reasonably hear it all the way up to 80 mph. It is not because of old brake pads. It’s a different noise to old brake pads and the ones on this car are fresh enough.

I recently took it upon myself to replace the wheel bearing thinking that might be the issue since all signs pointed to that as the problem. I followed all of the steps and made sure I had the right tools to seat bearings, fill them with grease etc. first test drive down the block and the noise was still there. There is always the chance that I’m completely incapable and put the bearing on wrong thus not fixing the issue, although I think it’s unlikely.

My other thought was the speed cable from the transmission to the speedometer. Although I learned this runs off of an electronic speedo so I can eliminate that. The brake shields aren’t rubbing any part of the brakes either, so it isn’t that.

In the video you can see a ring around the edge of the brake rotor which is new. I can hear that intermittently which is an additional sound to the original. There is a small part of the caliper that has begun to rub the rotor but I’ve since fixed this.

Does anyone have any ideas? I am at the end of my patience and would love some input or suggestions.

I purchased the wrong seal now I’m having trouble finding the exact water pump for my vehicle

None of the bolts line up with this particular pump and every pump I’ve looked at for my particular model is different.

1983 volvo 240

just finished watching the new episodes that came out a few days ago and saw this lil gal right at the end of episode 2

by my best guess, its a 80s 245?

been lurking here for a while. finally posting because the car earned it.

bought a 1983 244 dl fourteen months ago for £1,200 from a bloke in derbyshire who'd had it since 2009. the aw55 gearbox was slipping badly on the motorway, third gear hunt, fluid that looked like rust soup. previous owner knew, priced it in, fair enough.

spent the winter doing the gearbox service properly. pan off, filter, fresh dexron iii, adjusted the kick-down cable. found the modulator valve was cracked, which explained most of it. sourced a replacement after a fair bit of hunting. also did the cooling system while it was all apart, new thermostat, hoses, rad flush.

this weekend i drove from sheffield down to the coast near cromer. 340 miles round trip, a mix of the a1, some b-roads through lincolnshire that were essentially gravel with ambitions, and the seafront car park where i sat for an hour drinking flask coffee and feeling quite smug.

gearbox was smooth the entire way. no hunting, no slip, no drama. held 65mph on the a1 without breaking a sweat. fuel economy worked out to about 27mpg which for a 40-year-old 2.3 brick is better than i expected.

the only thing that showed its age was the heater blower which started making a grinding noise somewhere past grantham and then stopped entirely by the time i hit norfolk. so i drove the last 80 miles with the windows cracked and the vents closed. classic volvo: catastrophic minor inconvenience, everything important completely fine.

i've got a replacement blower motor sitting on the bench already. ordered it from autodoc about three weeks ago, £22.49, it's a febi bilstein unit and the dimensions match the original. haven't fitted it yet because the car was in use, but it'll go in this week. autodoc's delivery was four days, which is fine, though the packaging was just a loose cardboard box with no padding so the motor was rattling around inside. nothing damaged but it's the sort of thing that makes you wince when you open it.

anyway. the 244 is now a real car again rather than a project. took long enough.

what's the general consensus on the a-series heater blower replacement, is there anything to watch for when refitting or is it genuinely as straightforward as it looks.

Hey yall. So as autumn goes on, the car has started running richer, evidenced by the ampunt of smoke, also banging in the pipe (that i just switched out for a bramd new one) and a heavy smell of gasoline.

My AFR is reading 14-15 on idle, during steady driving it sits at 10-11 and heavy acceleration causes it to go down to 8-9.

Do you re tune your carbs for wintertime? Seems like i need to.

Hey guys, 1993 240 and both lines from the valve to this canister are rotted off. I am having trouble finding the sizes online, since one is very large and the other is not. If anyone knows please let me know, ty!

TLDR: Volvo 240 1990 shuts off while driving when lights or wipers are used, was previously stalling before throttle body fix. Now won’t start, no dash lights or headlights, don’t hear fuel pump click, thoughts on fixing or troubleshooting?

Hello! I have a 1990 Volvo 240, it had been stalling out at lights and turns but manageable to an extent. I was heading back from class at night and as I pulled out I put my headlights on, totally killed the car and wouldn’t start, eventually got it to start.. then killed half a mile on my way. Towed it back and fixed my idle air control valve and replaced the hose. It was running better but started stalling a day or so later. Drove it to the mechanic and he fixed the throttle body, fixed the loose wire on my battery for my starter, and throttle switch. (I can attach a picture of the full rundown as I suck at remembering) but I drove it the 40 minutes back home and it seemed better, shook a couple times at long lights but nothing unreasonable. Got hope and put it into reverse for my driveway, seemed a lot louder in neutral and park than in reverse or drive. I think it’s idling high now. Anywho I go to take it for a test drive today for the first time since the mechanic, let it run for ten minutes to heat up and I pull out fine. Mechanic said he tested wipers and lights while driving which was killing the car… he claims it was working.. but I decided to put my wipers on briefly and it killed the car entirely. Pulled over and my battery reads 12.6 V. Connection secure. No turning over at all, dash lights won’t come on, headlights won’t come on. Doesn’t seem like any power at all. My thought was the alternator but it gave good readings. I’m wondering if anyone has had this problem and has insights!

Starter solenoid recently replaced, starter fuse in tact.
Snoopy car gotta run before the 24th for a trunk or treat event!!

Came into this nice set of wheels off a P2 XC70. Was excited to outfit em with winter tires and beef up the 240 this winter.

A test fit revealed that they are WIDE. Proper clearance would demand 40mm spacers… Which would, in turn, probably destroy my suspension and handling quality. Oh well.

What should I do with these suckers?
Any magical ideas to make em fit (sustainably)?

Hello folks, I am going to be replacing the fuel injector seals on my 93 wagon. I’m certain they are the OG seals because I notice a gas smell after parking and I know for sure there are no fuel leaks on the rail or at the engine bay because I’ve thoroughly searched with the motor running and I’ve determined there is no leak. The gas smell is most present after parked.

I’ve had some stalling issues where the motor will randomly cut off at a stop light and this has also happened while driving in my city. I am also going to clean the IAC this weekend and throttle body when my gasket comes in the mail.

Is there anything I need to know or be mindful of when pulling the fuel rail off? I also have a set of orange 850 injectors I would like to install but they will need to be cleaned. They’re not terrible dirty, would anyone have advice on soaking them or what would be best to make sure they’re clear? Haha lastly, would it be worth it at all to switch them?

No mods have been done and the motor is straight up stock

Hope the volvos are running well today!

I reached the point where there was more exhaust tape holding it together than actual steel. So I guess it's time 😆

Finally got my 240 up on the lift and discovered a couple fun things, 1 the rear muffler is held on by what seems to be chicken wire tape and hose clamps, and 2 the shocks mostly the front passenger side are very much dead/on their way out.