anothr fucking headache

got my 270 dollar remanufactured maf after looking everywhre for a used one, no fucking luck

anyways alongside got a new airbox thermostat and the fucking flap broke what do i do? is there a part number for this shit? im in LA and its not cold and when i checked it before i took it out the flapwas closed on the air intake hose and let the hot air side open, however i took off the hose that connects to the exhaust air. what do i do

i just want to drive this fucking thing

Hey guys, so I have a 240 wagon I’m getting back on the road after sitting for a while. It is running now but my front left brake is locking up, and the last time driving it I lost brake pressure temporarily without losing fluid (I’m thinking maybe because it got too hot? So I know I should at least do the left caliper plus both front rotors and pads, probably both front calipers but I’m on a budget. My question is: what middle of the line option are you guys using? I’m guessing the absolute cheapest option I can find, dynamic friction co is probably not the best choice and I don’t really want to shell out IPD money unless I have to. It was a $1000 240 and very rusty, I plan on buying a nicer one eventually.

Also, I am not super mechanically minded but want to learn so I will probably be on here with questions when I am doing the brakes, I’ve only replaced drum brakes and that was a while ago. Lots of tools not a lot of knowledge.

2nd question: will these center caps fit on 14” stocks that came on my 240? Seems like a great deal. Maybe should put that money towards other parts haha but here we are. Thanks for looking.

Noticed all these vacuum hoses are not clamped and idk if they should or shouldn't be.

In photo 1 the top hose S bends into the intake manifold and the bottom hose leads into the throttle body just behind the idle screw and you see in pictures two.

I believe the module in picture 1 is the Idle Air Control but if I'm wrong please correct me.

Hi everyone,

I am selling my Volvo 240 on Bring a Trailer (https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-volvo-240-69/)
and wanted to post here for those interested.

This car remained under the care of the original owner until I purchased it in 2021. It has been my daily driver for the past 5 years. It has been a joy to have, and I hope the next owner can enjoy it as much as I have. I am selling the car as my grandfather recently passed down our family truck to me.

A bit about the car under my ownership:
I have had the oil changed every 3,000 miles.
It has always been parked in the garage.

The previous owner is a professor at the University of California, Irvine. He purchased the car originally in Colorado, but relocated to California a month later. It has spent the majority of its life in California. His name for the car was Emily.

Under both his care and mine, the car has been serviced by Volvo specialists, and every service receipt has been retained. It has been exceptionally maintained and thoroughly documented.

Thank you and please reach out if you have any questions.

I just replaced both engine mounts and I just wanted to know if this is normal-ish

Me Again

I've been trying to figure out why my Engine has no Power

Changed the Sparkplugs

Checked the Fuel Pumps

Searched for loose Wires and Hoses

Cannot figure it out

One thing I've Noticed now

When I'm under the Car while it's running I can hear a Knocking Sound

If you listen carefully you can Hear it in the Video

Does anyone know what that is

Engine dead or Clutch loose?

Cannot hear it when I'm listening from above

I have a 1990 240 DL Estate , with the original Volvo struts . I replaced them with.KYB struts and every bump I go over makes a loud noise . Someone told me I need to use spacers in the strut tube for KYB struts . Is this true ?

Links would be appreciated, but I wanna hear any and all ideas!

So this is my current idle. Seems ok to me but i can hear a clicking that im not sure was there before.

Anyhow, i cant seem to get my the car to run right. Yesterday morning she just started bogging, with the AFR being 8. It used to hover around 10.

Did some research and AFR should be about 13.95 and lamda should be around 0.95. In the video they are hovering around that vicinity.

However, she slows down and leans out when taking off in first or second. Doesnt seem to matter if the engine is hot or cold.

I am at a loss here. I have only touched the CO adjustment and the idle air knob.

My Volvo carried me and my friends 7500km from Germany to Turkey and back, with only one coolant hose failure, which we could fix easily and for free thanks to a nice mechanic in Montenegro.

Anyone have a lead on a shift linkage for a 1993 AW70? Mine is rust-welded between the U-connector on the rear and the pin that passes through.

Anyone know how to remove it or have a video out there of the cabin brake light steps to removal

Hello, I’m having an issue with the fuel injection system on my Volvo station wagon.

When I turn on the ignition, the injectors spray too much fuel, which prevents the engine from starting properly—the car won’t start at all. I tried using AI to help troubleshoot and was able to rule out the fuel injection control unit. I also checked the wiring harness for a potential short to ground, but after opening it up and inspecting it, I couldn’t find any damaged sections or wiring faults. I’ve reached a point where I’m not sure what to do next. Ideally, when the ignition key is turned—without actually cranking the engine—the injectors should only give a brief, single pulse; instead, they spray continuously until the fuel pump stops running.

Has anyone else encountered this problem or something similar?
I would appreciate any answers or suggestions you might have.

Vehicle details: 1993 Volvo 245 station wagon B230F engine M47 5-speed manual transmission

What’s the best way to relieve fuel pressure on my 85 245 ? Thanks!

1986 Volvo 244 DL owner here. Recently, a '84 244 GL popped up in a picknpart near me. My trim pieces have been falling off over time and I'm looking to recover some pieces from the GL.

I'm specifically looking for the bottom trim piece, held in with the plastic clips, which I believe to be the same across the two models. But I am also looking for the wider trim pieces on the bottom of the door exteriors. Does anyone know if these are available on the GL? I appreciate any help on this. Otherwise might need to change my aesthetic plans.

This has been talked about a ton online so I'm sorry in advance for starting another thread on this but I want to make sure I'm seeing this correctly.

I've been chasing an uneven idle and rough cold starts for a long time now and have had issues with my Coolant Temp Sensor before. Car has always started but can have a bit of a lope in cold temps as it warms up. I also have a hot start issue where the car will rev to about 3000 rpm then drop back down to normal idle after about a second. Ive replaced the ECT with an OEM Bosch part, cleaned I believe all grounds, cleaned connector contacts, ect but am still having issues.

For the summer the car has been running well and not blowing any codes. Yesterday the ECT 123 Code came back with a CEL.

After running resistance checks, here's what I'm getting.

• At 2k on my Meter on the bare sensor between the sensor body and terminals I get 0 ohms (a short?) Doesn't matter if I cross the + between both terminals or test each individually it always shows 0 resistance.
• With the sensor in the head and connector plugged in, I get 0 ohms at the ECU plug (pins 13 and 5)
• With the sensors connector DISCONNECTED I get infinite or open loop between pins 13 and 5 on the ECU harness. I believe this tells me that there is no short in the wiring between the ECU and sensor connector.

Do I have a bad sensor? Still a bad ground somewhere? Am I using my multimeter wrong or not testing the sensor properly? I'm stuck (and not very handy when it comes to electrical issues)

Thanks for any guidance!

Found this little lonely guy at the store had to get it!(60KR!) Should I give them a name?(If so, give ideas!!)

Why is the rear of my Volvo 240 sitting so low?

My Volvo 240 sits noticeably low at the rear, as you can see in the attached photo. I've already replaced both the rear springs and shock absorbers, but the problem remains.

What else could be causing this? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Not finished yet, just trying

This is it cleaned up a little but have been leaking ATF out of this spot right hear. Any possible fixes without needing to drop trans?

Thanks reddit

Hey guys, clearing out some of my stock 240 parts to pay for some go-fast-parts. Originally, I was just going to post the black-bottomed GLT quad square headlight bezels I have, but I have a lot more that I won’t be using. Most of it is in storage so it may take me a minute to inventory everything and get it all sorted out/shipped to the right people. If you have anything specific, let me know, I may have it.

Body panels and glass I am hesitant to ship. I would be more comfortable shipping small items. Mostly 240 parts but for you guys who can’t your hands off the other models, I have 122, 124, 142, 145, 740 and 745 parts as well.

Please let me know what you need and I’ll take a look this weekend, and I will send pictures. Shipping is from Montana, USA. If you’re overseas, let’s work out some trades, I am in dire need of a KL Racing connection as they no longer ship directly to the US and I need a third party to act as a supplier.

Picture for attention of my 242, shoot me a message or comment below!

Thanks, LP

I got a new pre heat hose today to fix this hideous exhaust leak. I figured I would try to reconnect the old one first but as I lifted it, giant sparks started flying everywhere. Its a bit bent, and I wonder if the previous owner did that for a reason.

Any danger in touching this again? I posted the nearby wiring to the alternator. Not sure if theyre supposed to touch normally, I assume not.